Okay, I've tried to search the forum, but havn't found out exactly what I've got, I know my truck has been fiddled with before it came to me. I've already figured out I've got a 390 by measuring the stroke thanks to everyone here! The "warranty" plate shows:
Warranty Number
F10DR699450
Trans Axle
A 07

It looks like the truck came stock with a 3 on the tree but could've been automatic just as easy I guess? Although I havn't taken a close look at how the clutch pedal comes into the cab. It currently has a top loader 4spd in it with no granny gear. The badge I found on the tranny is: C90R-7A040-A
W1 /D299\

 

Here's what I found out;

F10= F-100 2wd
D= 352 CID
R= San Jose assy plant
699450= 1965 model year
A= 3speed column shift manual trans.
17= 9 inch rear, 3.25 rear ratio

Going by the tranny tag, you have a 4 speed trans out of a 69 Torino. Most likely if it's a 390, they swapped engine/tranny combo from the car into your truck.

Barry

 

Barry, as always, your knowledge is priceless. One more question though, if I have the engine from a Torino where do I find the "badge" on the engine?

 

Barry, as always, your knowledge is priceless. One more question though. If I have the engine set up from the Torino, where do I find the "badge" on the engine?

 

There's no real "Badge" on the engine. In the early-mid 60's, some engine had a small tag on the intake to identify the years. Those usually got thrown away or misplaced. They were held on by an intake bolt or to a threaded hole with a small bolt. There's casting numbers on the side of the block, but on a FE motor , they really just tell you it's a FE motor. You really can't trace it to a particular year. I was taking a guess as the tranny was out of a 69 car, so maybe the engine was also. Maybe someone else has more info on the FE identifacation.

Barry

 

I don't think there is any difference in P-Car 390FE engines except that Full Size cars had a advertised 265 HP, 2V carb, regular fuel version while Torino, Mustang, Montego etc had the premium fuel, 320 adv HP engine, with 4V Carb. That would mean if it's a Torino it should have a 4V carb with a set of slightly higher compression heads.

A way to determine year is use "latest" casting code or embossed/ cast part number. IOW if it has any DO or D1 prefixes it's later than 69 and if it has C8 or earlier as it's latest, it's not later than that, be it a 68 or what ever latest cast # showing is.

But otherwise all FEs are a mystery when assembled, installed, and have "use dirt" on them. They all say 352, even 332s & 428s have 352 cast on them. Only real way to know what engine one has is to read all numbers etc, mic (mike), measure & degree them as you tear them down.

FBp

 

FE block casting numbers are located on front driver side....crawl under truck....will be on front corner parallel w/frame rail....wire brush and carb cleaner should clean the gunk off...pad is right next to oil pan area....raised letters like on heads....

craig....your vin is very close to my ranger....cept mine is a 3/4 ton C/S and built in KC....



cs65

 

Thanks again guys. I havn't crawled under the engine yet, I think I'm gonna tear apart the front end and clean everything before I start to jump feet first into hoppin' it up. I checked the rear-end and saw a tag on there that was something like 3.25 5ec 313 or something like that. Figured that means I'm running a 3.25 gear set. right? Any suggestions for a gear set that will help dispose of those pesky 4 cylinder ricers? HaHa.

 

Sorry to hijack this thread but since it is titled What Tranny...... I will post here.

As some of you know I'm parting out my '66. The thing pulled and ran HARD. I recently started the tare down of the engine and found that I was sold a 289 when a 302 was really in place. So what does this have to do w/ a tranny? Well the poor thing wouldn't run any faster than 80 mph, on the highway. I mean, 3rd gear and it was BEGGING to quit. 10 mph in first, 30mph in second. +/-. What gearing did these things have in them??? I haven't, and won't, pull the rear to find out what kind of gears it has. I have to assume the rear is NOT stock. However, did the tranny's have "close ratio" gearing?

 

You don't have to pull the rear to find the ratio. There's a tag bolted to the rear on one of the studs that hold the chuck in place ( 9 inch) or a bolt on the rear cover ( Dana) of the rear end. If you think the rear is original, get the code off the door if you still have the vin plate intact. The ratio is on the tag, usually the second row.

Barry

 

Hey guys, I'm back at it again thanks for all the info. I'm looking forward to tearing the front end off the truck and seriously cleaning everything!!! In the process though I want/need to change the clutch. I'm also thinking about adding a cam, probably Crane. In regards to the clutch, I'm not sure what size to buy, if I should go with a HiPo clutch instead of OEM and I'm not sure the easiest way to go about the change. Thinking about hoisting up the engine and pulling the tranny out just to take a good look at everything.

 

Craig

Only thing to watch for is the daimeter of the splines and count. Some Torinos had the large input shaft on big blocks.

If it is the big block large spline sometimes they are worth more than the truck as a whole.

The clutch will need to match the trans. Are you using the truck as a truck?

Match up the replacment to what is currently installed. Hi po is only different in the type of friction materials installed on the disc. and not much of a benifit on a daily driver as the materials are harsher on the flywheel and pressure plate surface. hence needing more periodic maintinence.

Garbz

 

Garbz, thanks for the heads-up. How will I know if it is the "large" input shaft though? And as far as the truck, it's not my daily driver, but does haul a load to the dump or a dirtbike/streetbike around every now and then. I have a more fuel efficient 4 cyllinder for the trips to work, but wanted to build a truck that'll stomp on some of those pesky 4 cylinder drivers when needed! Kinda hypocritical, but the bang for the buck is better! I'd rather spend the gas money on cams/headers/carbs/exhuast/restoration/etc.........hahahahah

craig