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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 09:23 PM
  #16  
gov2mod's Avatar
gov2mod
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Tuned
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Well, I've finally solved the super high hydrocarbon problem but still have some others. I pulled the intake manifold off, thinking about changing the cam but decided to change the intake gaskets instead as all of the lifters came up the same amount and it's not likely all of the lobes were worn. The timing chain has about 6 or 7 degress of play. The intake gaskets were felpro blue gaskets which usually look good when removed. These were dark and oily around the rear two cylinders. When I sprayed carb cleaner looking for an intake leak I didn't find one as these were leaking from the bottom. Up out of the valley where the lifters are. That's why I couldn't find the leak, it was sucking oily air from inside the engine. I put it back together and went back for the emission test this morning. It's allowed 220 hydrocarbon and 1.20 on CO. The last trip the HC was up to 1800 HC. Idle was HC 6 and CO was 0. High idle was HC 13 and CO still at zero. That problem is finally solved. But it's still lacking in power although with the compression only at 140 overall I think it's time for the engine on the stand to be completed. But the real problem still is not only is it lacking horsepower (my 1993 5.0 with E4OD runs so much better it's like it's supercharged compared to this one) but it still has the problem of if it stalls when cold it will not start unless you hold it to the floor and crank it a LOT! If it's cold and you rev it up and just take your foot off the pedal it will stall or if you stop suddenly when cold it will stall and not start. After you crank it a lot with the pedel down it will start and blow black smoke from all of the gas. Or, if you walk away (not easy at a traffic light, although I'm tempted) and try again a few minutes later it will start right up. I still think it could be the computer itself but I'm too cheap to buy a computer just to test that issue. After all I just spent the big bucks for the new "Y" pipe with catalytic converter for nothing and I've already spend way too much fighting the hydrocarbon problem with all of the other parts. What do you think? Computer or not?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 12:44 AM
  #17  
Cloim's Avatar
Cloim
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Originally Posted by gov2mod
if it stalls when cold it will not start unless you hold it to the floor and crank it a LOT! If it's cold and you rev it up and just take your foot off the pedal it will stall or if you stop suddenly when cold it will stall and not start. After you crank it a lot with the pedel down it will start and blow black smoke from all of the gas. Or, if you walk away (not easy at a traffic light, although I'm tempted) and try again a few minutes later it will start right up.
How's the EGR valve and sensor? Were they replaced? There's also a vacuum solenoid that connect to the EGR valve. Could also be the wiring to any of that or the engine temp sensor.

Reasons: Cold engine, EGR should be off. If it's pumping exhaust gas into the engine while cold or at idle, the engine will stall and die. EGR should also be disabled during WOT.

At WOT (flooring it) while cranking, the computer shuts off the injectors. If doing that allows it to start then it was flooded. When it finally does start, there is still an excess amount of gas so you get the black smoke.

If the computer is flooding the engine while cranking, it could be connected to a faulty EGR system. Happened to me, but so far everytime I suggest this to someone, it turns out to be something else...

If too much exhaust gas is recirculating then performance will go down. If it's circulating during WOT then performance will go down.

And the walking away and coming back it'll start... That may indicate that my hypothesis is complete b.s.
 
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