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I would start by cleaning and lubricating the tracks and moving parts in the doors, and cleaning the electrical contacts to see if anything might help. They are 11 years old but shouldn't go both at the same time. The drivers side is used alot more often. Check the voltage. Make sure you have no shorts. Good luck with it.
The problem is 3 plastic plugs that go into the motor. They wear out and eventually disentegrate causing the window to 'struggle' or not even go up. You can buy them at Advance AutoParts or AutoZone. They're like $6-7 for a set of 3. I replaced mine, but I can't give you any pointers as I have an F-150.
I couldn't find the plastic rollers when I did this job. One poster I read here used pieces cut off the semi-rigid plastic tubing used to connect a plumbing shut off valve to the sink faucet. I had some of this laying around and cut 3 pieces of the correct length and they worked great. The window motor will slip just a bit when at full raise or lower. I figure this is better than shattering the plastic rollers like the original did at full stop. My job was on a '93 F-250 but I expect the Ranger will use a similar system. The motor gearcase cover plate is held on by the three mounting screws and one smaller screw. The gear is held in by a small snap ring that may be hidden in old grease (don't ask how I know this.) So for the cost of plumbing part, $1.50 I think, I saved $100+ in window motors, or $7 in plastic rollers. Time will tell how it works but it is easy enough to do again. One big hint I picked up here is DON'T disconnect the motor from the wiring until you have it out of the door. If you drop it into the door it would be very difficult to retrive if you didn't have the wires to pull it out with.
Do a search on "power window" here to see some of the other fix hints.