03 Expedition Rotor Removal
#46
I was sure. I went and got a new caliper and was done in an hour. That's right, I am done.
As a matter of fact, when i went to the other side and changed it out, the pads and rotor were no where near in the horrible condition that the other was. I believe that the caliper had failed and caused the damage to the rotor and the unbalanced wear.
Thanks for everyone's help. I learned a lot from this experience and am confident that I can do the brakes next time with no issues.
thanks,
brian
As a matter of fact, when i went to the other side and changed it out, the pads and rotor were no where near in the horrible condition that the other was. I believe that the caliper had failed and caused the damage to the rotor and the unbalanced wear.
Thanks for everyone's help. I learned a lot from this experience and am confident that I can do the brakes next time with no issues.
thanks,
brian
#47
Yes I agree, from that description it sounds like the caliper was frozen in place, keeping too much pressure on the pads.
#48
The torx is 9mm. It's hard to find, but most commonly available at Kragen's Auto Parts store and Sears. Most torx sets jump right over the 9mm and go from 8mm to 10mm.
BTW, you sound a bit off on the part names. The piston is the round recess thing inside the caliper. The caliper is the entire assembly that squeezes the two brake pads to the rotor. I think the other part you've motioned that you need to separate from the caliper by removing the two torx bolts, is the adapter/caliper mounting bracket. Sorry, I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but it helps to prevent confusion when asking questions if the correct part names are used.
http://wwnboa.org/pdbjpgs/Pdb16.jpg
BTW, you sound a bit off on the part names. The piston is the round recess thing inside the caliper. The caliper is the entire assembly that squeezes the two brake pads to the rotor. I think the other part you've motioned that you need to separate from the caliper by removing the two torx bolts, is the adapter/caliper mounting bracket. Sorry, I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but it helps to prevent confusion when asking questions if the correct part names are used.
http://wwnboa.org/pdbjpgs/Pdb16.jpg
#49
Thanks for posting that link. That is the first time I have ever seen that done that way. Pretty nice setup really. I personally just replace with some cross drilled ones when I do a break job. But thats just me..
I find its best to constantly upgrade everything. Because you know Ford did it as cheep as they could when they build the damn thing.
I find its best to constantly upgrade everything. Because you know Ford did it as cheep as they could when they build the damn thing.
#50
No, what I was actually referring to is a 9mm hex, which is what is on there. I continued to use the term torx because the person I responded to used the term torx. He was already frustrated enough without me jumping over every single tid bit of his terminology. A lesson you appear to have yet to learn!
#51
Well I tackeled my rotors and pads on my 2003 Expy. I live in Wisconsin and have had this since fall 2002 when they came out with the '03s and the salts of Wisconsin winters. I changed the oiginal front rotors and pads. The main issue I had was one stuck slide pin so I had to order a set from Ford. For the rotors, I tried the trick of 1/2 ATF and 1/2 acetone. I squirtted it between the studs and around the hub last weekend and let it soak for a week. I used the bolts in the caliper bracket holes trick and after a few turns on each bolt, the rotor popped off. I found there was a thin layer of oil around the hub. This home mixture worked very well! I pulled the caliper bracket with the stuck pin and wrenched it out with a pair of vice grips. With the rotors coming off so easy, this was a relatively simple job. I highly recommend the home brew. One thing, you have to shake it before every use as the two will come out of solution but it worked like a champ.
#52
expedition front rotor removal
The first one I used a puller and applied some pressure, then I put some heat. This took about 15 min once I got the tools together. The second I only used a puller. After applying a moderate amount of pressure I walked away to get a drink of water and heard a metal pop, the rotor was off, this one took 5 min. I guess one could use a large hammer but I just don't like pounding on my car.
#53
harbor freight has them for $20. northern tool for $25. they are cheap.
I've had the piston score the walls of the caliper on the way out. (usually happens when the piston is over extended) new caliper time!
I think I need a new caliper. I have it all disassembled, and I CAN NOT get the piston to compress. No matter what I do, they will not go in. I got a brake spreader from the parts shop and snapped the handle off. I have the reservoir open, I even opened the bleeder on that caliper to see if it would relieve some pressure. They simply will not compress.
Is it possible that they have expanded so much, and been in that position so long, that they will never go back in and I might as well buy another caliper?
Is it possible that they have expanded so much, and been in that position so long, that they will never go back in and I might as well buy another caliper?
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2003, back, brake, change, difference, expedition, ford, front, replacement, rotor, rotors, rusted, sawzall, type, wont