Exhaust manifolds 302?
#1
Exhaust manifolds 302?
I have a 92 F150 with 302 and it has 240K on the motor. I runs great but knocks some. Last time out it got 17.5 on the interstate with the tailgate down. I don't really need to overhaul this motor as it burns no oil and nothing seems wrong with it. Except the knocking.
I did replace the timing cover gasket and put on a new timing chain and gears. No, they are not off a tooth. I have tried to reset the timing and have tried to find the right plug to disconnect to set the timing without the computer but have had no success. Can someone tell me the exact plug and wires in it to disconnect to set the timing? I have done a search but it is not helping me much.
Also I need to replace the exhaust manifolds and want a better flowing bolt on set the will hookup to my existing exhaust. I have seen some but maybe someone here has some experience and can direct me to a proven (affordible ) set?
THIA
Eric
I did replace the timing cover gasket and put on a new timing chain and gears. No, they are not off a tooth. I have tried to reset the timing and have tried to find the right plug to disconnect to set the timing without the computer but have had no success. Can someone tell me the exact plug and wires in it to disconnect to set the timing? I have done a search but it is not helping me much.
Also I need to replace the exhaust manifolds and want a better flowing bolt on set the will hookup to my existing exhaust. I have seen some but maybe someone here has some experience and can direct me to a proven (affordible ) set?
THIA
Eric
#2
I have the same truck. Under the hood, drivers side fender by the firewall are all the ECU connections in a bundle. Just below the hood spring mechanism amongst the bundle you should see a 2 wire bundle ending in a grey rectangular cap. Pull the cap off and you can do basic timing. Don't forget to put it back on after you have set basic timing . If you look at the timing light once the cap is back on you will see that it advances quite a bit. This is normal. I set my basic timing at 12 degrees BTDC and runs good, no pinging. Factory spec is 10 degrees BTDC. Your knocking is probably bearings starting to go (rod and or mains).
kwing
kwing
#3
Thanks, it's not really knocking it's pinging. I found the connector and set the timing but it still pings some. It was running somewhat rich. So I think maybe carbon knock. I will recheck the timing again after I put in a new heater core which went bad and a new radiator cap. I read that a bad cap or leak can cause a ping. Gotta cover all bases.
Eric
Eric
#4
I put a set of headers on my old 92. I think they were headman headers. It made a slight difference but what it really neede was a cat back system to compliment it. One thing that was a draw back or those headers was that the flanges that bolt to the heads were a little thin so I put two gasgets in on each side.
#5
Found the plug and disconnected the dist from the computer, reset the timing and took a test run. Still pinging. . The heater core was still leaking and fogging up the windshield so I took it out and got a new one from Advanced Auto ( My old one lasted from 87K to 240K) figured I could get a new one.
I installed it today and topped of the radiator, warmed up the truck and gave it a good hard run. No pinging. . So as someone had stated in another post about the radiator cap causing his pinging. I supposed a leak would do it to. So after the new heater core all is well. For a 240K truck anyway.
Thanks to the board and all those who gave input.
Eric
Now I can fix the damage from the 16 girl on the cell phone who hit me.
I installed it today and topped of the radiator, warmed up the truck and gave it a good hard run. No pinging. . So as someone had stated in another post about the radiator cap causing his pinging. I supposed a leak would do it to. So after the new heater core all is well. For a 240K truck anyway.
Thanks to the board and all those who gave input.
Eric
Now I can fix the damage from the 16 girl on the cell phone who hit me.
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