Any 10 owners have nitrous? I ordered it and am waiting for it to get anodized and come back. my truck has been off the road close to a year now.
I think it will kill her very quickly. Anyone wanna chat about it?

 

i kinda thought this thread would spark more interest i'll post pic in a month or so every part of it crome, polished, or anodized blue $3600 for the direct port kit with progressive controller. plan to run 100 hp setting

 

I think for that kind of cash I would go with a supercharger instead. I think it'll be more reliable in the long run too.

 

I think the problem is that, where nitrous may be the cheapest, quickest power, you then also got to deal with always lugging the bottles around, running out, getting it refilled, etc. With a supercharger, you never run out of boost and, if you get the right style, it will greatly increase low end torque, which is far better for towing and off-roading.

 

Another reason you wont find many nitrous users here is it not very practical for our heavy trucks that most use every day.I agree the supercharger is a better choice,it depends on how you use your truck.With the proper tune nitrous is pretty harmless,without it can kill an engine quick.Back off the timing when on the bottle, add fuel, it should live.Me personaly, i want a whipple with a smaller pulley to get about 10-12# of boost,bigger inj's,Lentech automatic trans and 4.56's.

 

Hell since I am bored waiting on a PM response to my new IssPro Gauges, I will bogart a little of this precious bandwidth.

Rather than be drated (I had notice in hand) I hustled down to the recruiter and volunteered for the Army and 4 years (got a cash $,$$$ bonus ;>})

I was one of the first few folks who bought a chemical supercharger from Tacoma Speed Works on South Tacoma way in, you guessed it, Tacoma Washington where I was stationed at Fort Lewis.

My 20 lb NOS kit went on a 57 Ford 312 CI spider intake in a Fairlane Ranchero. Had to plumb in an electric fuel pump for the nozzles to flow fuel and the Nitrous. First thing I broke was pinion shaft. OK fix that and dump the ponies again, boy oh boy we cooking now, then the Trans tail shaft took a dump. Fixed that only to spin a very large diameter axel on the 4.10:1 9" rear. Fixed that only to then chunk out the whole rear gear when a spider failed. Getting the picture here. These were all considered over engineered "bullit proof" drive train components.

Over the years I have done a fair amount of drag racing and some times used the bottle. In fact I have a 122 CI twin cylinder Harley type motor on the bottle right now.

But you know the biggest reason why I never seriously consider putting my 40K V10 truck on the NOS? That damned plastic intake manifold and plenum scares the hell out of me. A NOS and fuel enriched back fire is a powerfull explosion and you really don't want to be too close.

So when you get your system, make sure to send the heads out to have the nozzels ported directly into the cylinder.

And do post back about how the drive train held up to instant power loading, I am more than curious.

 

well yes a supercharger is definatley better. i hardly think it is more economical or any less damaging to internal components. either way you go it will ruin your engine and drive train. within a year or whenever i blow it up i am going to do crazy thing to the motor. my fuel system will easily suport 800hp. could probibly get 1200 out of it. I am trying no to exceed 40% over stock. nos is the best dollar for dollar bolt on mod.i could only get crome tanks in 10 pound size. i plan to use 10 pound tank a week.
mine being a 2002 doesn't have the third valve. but i really don't think the thirfd valve has anything to do with the suposed hp level of the newer 10s. it is definatly due to no have that crappy log exhaustmanifold.

i am interested to see what i can bore a 10 out to. i was thinking stock cam new rods, pitstons, crank. i am still looking at nickisil coating or solid nickel sleeves. nickisil seems to work great on 4 and 2 stoke atvs. aswell as a verioty of high rev croch rocket motor.

as far as a supercharger i am buying the vortech with the cooler option. it offer a harder hit on bottem end.(the increased boost at low rpm is definatly a engine killer.)

i will deal with the tranny problems whenever they arrive very like soon.

 

I don't agree with all the negative NOS posts as power is power to a bottom end regardless of where it comes from. The added expense over time of NOS will probably more than pay for a supercharger but for the casual user, a NOS system will add 50-150 hp for a relatively small cost and it you don't need it, don't open the bottle. An NOS fed motor is no more prone to backfire than any engine so I wouldn't worry about that and the manifold. A properly installed wet system will increase hp and torque just like a supercharger plus the nitrous has a cooling effect into the top end, unlike a s/c. If someone does a crappy install of any speed part, you could have problems. I would n't be any more adverse to nitrous than I would adding high octane race gas, a bigger cam, a chip or whatever. NOS isn't magic it's pure science. It increases the oxygen count in your combustion chambers and allows a larger fuel load to be burnt. Post some pictures when you get her done and let us know what performance gains you realize please. Good luck, Ken

 

i never even gave "porting" the head any thought. i think what he meant was to have the point of entry or the nozzle into the cylinder. the system i am utilizing is for mustangs. is is the nitrous express version of the nos noszle. meaning the enter point of nos and fuel enrichment is under the fuel injector. it would be my believe that injectors are already directly spaying into the cylinder. i don't think there will be tro rich of a condition to have backfire. unless it is a test run in neutral with no load. thx for imput power is power. more fuel a burning.

 

You all are aware that the modular V8 and V10 series of motors use powdered Iron connecting rods arent you? For years the PSD guys fussed about this type con rods. I seem to recall that recently Ford stopped using the powdered Iron in the 6.0L PSD.

Injecting NOS under the Fuel injector will satisfy the poke I made at going direct into the head. What I was really pointing out was the fact that most of the intake manifold is a thermoPlastic and not a good area to plan the injection.

To the notion that NOS is science and not prone to backfire. OK point taken. And I agree with this motor, that should not be a real concern because we are NOT dealing with mechanical distributer and wild cam profiles. So on this type motor you really can't create a timing error in ignition or intake/exhaust overlap that will promote a backfire.

So that brings me to the real concern and reason I won't add NOS to my daily ride. I see the entire power train as starting with the crankshaft, connected to the flywheel, coupled to the trans main shaft, driving the drive shaft, twisting the pinion shaft, rolling the ring gear, torquing on the drive axel, turning the rear wheel, and propelling the truck!

The length of the crank shaft is a concern to Ford engineers who recommend an external bearing for High load front accessory add on drives that attach to the engine harmonic balancer.

It ticks me off that Kenny Bell and Whipple insist that you don't need this bearing. And to a point they are correct on the modular motor. You do NOT need it with the V8, it is short enough with equally spaced main bearings. One of the reasons Ford will not be updating the V10 into the 500HP range is the inherant weakness of the lengthened crank shaft. There is a hint in there somewhere.

I am very profecient with using NOS, turbos, blowers and should have paid attention to the original post from V-10Triton who seems to suggest this is not his daily driver. That being the case, I am interested to see how this works.

V-10Triton please create a signature, and post a bio on yourself ( not personal data just where you are from yadda yadda type stuff) and the tell us about truck you are chemicle supercharging

 

i plan to make a bio and gallery just waiting for truck to be on the road. when the motor comes out i will do crank rods pistons. i am going to ceramic coat everthing. I just want to project to finally be done. i just wonder if the price of the coating is worth it. going to do my entire ss exhaust. i am dieing to hear what my 4" exhaust on a 10 will sound like. as nfar as i am concerned this thread is closed until it's on the road with the nos working

 

I had high performance coatings (look them up in google) coat the combustion chamber, valve faces, and piston domes on a high HP Vtwin 122 CI motor. The also did the slippery coat on the skirts. I think I paid around $28 a part so doing a complete coat on the V10 will probably be pretty pricey. I did this for part longivity as there was only a few HP gain on the same motor pre coat and post coat.

I have not spent the time to do the research on the specs and then check the specs on Ford Racing parts of their High Performance parts. Because these are modular motors I bet that there are many interchangeable things in the internals.

 

With a hobby-type airbrush and an oven you can now coat your own engine parts. It takes a little bit of patience and a fair amount of painting skill. But the prep is the big thing, prep the parts correctly and the coating sticks. If I remember there are 2 types of coatings, one for heat deflection and 1 for slippery-ness (yea like THAT'S a word, but you get the point). Hot Rod or Car Craft had the how to recently, within say 3 months. Check it out. Maybe if you cryo-treated the crank ? I've not heard of the inherent problems with the long crank like Fredvon says, but I defer to his knowledge, he has always seemed to be pretty dead on about motor internals, so I'd trust him. I don't know if you can buy a chinese forged crank for the V-10, I would doubt it. But their quality has come up alot in the last couple years if they have a forged piece available. As long as you aren't building 700+ hp that is,, Ken

 

I wish

Check my gallery...

 

$28 a part is nothing. It must vary part to part. valvesprings being cheaper then headers. i would consider painting parts myself like the exhaust components. but you have to hone cylinders, and moniter tolerance on pistons. when i do the ceramic it will be a total motor teardown and rebuild.