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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

New to FTE! Casting numbers? 240 6 cyl.

 
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:09 AM
Megawes
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New to FTE! Casting numbers? 240 6 cyl.

Hi all! I have a '66 Ford F100 that originally was a Garden Grove, CA city work truck. It's not a beauty yet but I'm working on it. The LB is trash and I need to find a better one. The cab of the truck, other than a few dings, is great. While driving it home the other night the timing gear broke. So now I'm going to rebuild that Six. I'm not sure if it's the original engine so I got the casting numbers off the side of the block. #C6AE-6015-D, #5M30 and on the heads it's #8C23 and a "T" on the otherside. Just wondering if any of you can decode it for me? Anyways glad to be a part of the community! Thanks All.
 
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:32 AM
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C=1960
6=6TH YEAR
A=?
E=?
6015= ENGINE GROUP
D= ENGINEERING CHANGE NUMBER

Just off the top of my head
 
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:27 PM
Megawes
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Okay cool. At least its the original engine. I need to get into the engine deeper now to see if it's ever been rebuilt before.

I have another question. Can you take the front of the truck (fenders, rad. supp., and inner fenders) off as one? If so, which bolts are they. I mean I see the ones on the firewall. I'm just wondering if there are any hidden ones.
 
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:56 PM
cdherman
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The casting numbers tell you little in the 240/300 series. The block is the same for years. You can verify that its a 240 by measureing the stroke -- 240 is about 3.24, 300 is 4.00. Just pull a plug and use a copper wire to measure. Other options are the crank casting # (a little harder to see!), as well as the casting number for the head (very difficult to see, on the underneath side, above the thermostat housing).

I was recently amazed how cheap a rebuilt long block from precision engine rebuilders cost, something like $740 for a 240 or 300. On the otherhand, 300 engine is a bolt up to whatever tranny you have -- basically identical engine ecept for crank/rods/pistons/combustion chamber in heads. You might want to look for a decent junkyard 300 and just drop it in. The 240/300 are generally tough engines, lots of them outlast the vehicles they were born
with.

On the other hand, the 240 is capable of a bit better mileage and revs a tad better too. Frenchtownflyer over at fordsix has a drag racer built around a 240, reving to 9000. 300 is a great torquer, for its size. A fine truck engine, but not lots of glamour and noise.

Inline forum here, as well as fordsix.com are great sources of all things I6
 

Last edited by cdherman; 11-16-2004 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:05 PM
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You can remove the front end as an assembly if you remove the two core support bolts in the frame, the two lower fender bolts under the truck at the rear of the fenders, the two bolts located in side the cab just under the dash, the two bolts holding the inner fender straps to the firewall, and finally, the 4 bolts on top of the fenders right near the hinges. Leave the small connecting brackets bolted to the firewall that support the fenders, this will make it easier to support the entire assembly while remving and installing as well as make realignment easiler.
 
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:30 PM
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Great! Thanks!
 
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Old 05-13-2018, 03:52 PM
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1968 - Idle Screw issue

Hey Guys I have been looking around for a 6 cylinder thread to post this on- here is what is happening. I will start up the truck all good - then highway drive for a couple hours and the idle will be really high when I stop at lights, so I get out and turn it down, then it is fine for a while. Couple hours later I'll pull off the highway and it will stall. Ill turn the idle screw back up and it will be fine again. Doesn't always happen but does sometimes. Any help thanks!
 
 
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