WHAT WEIGHT OIL ARE YOU RUNNING IN THE FE's - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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View Poll Results: WEIGHT OIL ARE YOU RUNNING IN THE FE's
5w20
2.12%
5w30
5.51%
5w40
2.54%
10w30
27.54%
10w40
21.19%
15w40
11.86%
15w50
2.12%
20w50
16.10%
30w
10.17%
50w
0.85%
Voters: 236. You may not vote on this poll

WHAT WEIGHT OIL ARE YOU RUNNING IN THE FE's

 
  #46  
Old 12-16-2004, 07:43 PM
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How many of you have heard bad things about Pennzoil, Quaker State???
 
  #47  
Old 12-16-2004, 09:14 PM
Randyb12
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Years ago I was at Arizona Automotive Instatute, Before I figured out I was too blind to do Auto mechanics for a profession. The Instructors there toold us never to use Penzoil. He said it was junk. Other instructors had simular things to say about it too.
 
  #48  
Old 12-16-2004, 09:59 PM
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It could be true and I don't use Pennz. or Quaker State. My instructor said his dad only used Pennzoil and when he took apart the engine in his dad's 53 (I believe) chevy, he said it was really clean. He said he thought it was more a matter or changing your oil when you should, engines that don't get oil changes very often get lots of sludge buildup and get very dirty inside. Then on the other hand I have heard from many people that when you tear apart an engine that has been ran on Pennzoil, there is crud and sludge everywhere. I suppose it could be true but logic makes me think lack of service. The only exception I can see is in the older days when oils weren't as good. I don't use Pennzoil or QuakerState just cause I don't want to have to find out. All motor oil (at least of the convetional type use Parrafin) so who knows! My grandpa was a mechanic for Ford and has had Fords all his life and he uses Valvoline. I have heard many people say tht Valvoline is good oil or even the best. Then there was a guy at a speed shop in billings that said he didn't really like Valvoline. This guy owns the shop (Les) and the name of it is A.P.C. (Automotive Performance Warehouse) they are mostly Chevy guys that work there and they are kind-of arrogant know-it-all types. They don't get much business from me because they claim to be priced right with Summitt but they are usually more expensive and after some of their attitudes that they have displayed to me, I just don't go there much other than quizing them on their Ford knowledge and giving them crap for their prices. I am not brand biased, I just like Fords and Mopars more. Fords more than any of them though! I would support their business if they were nice and helpful and had a little bit more justifiable prices, but if they are going to act that way then they can shove their Bowtie loving suggestions you know where. I have a friend that is a Chevy guy and he feels the same way.
 
  #49  
Old 12-18-2004, 09:55 AM
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well, it depends

Guys, it depends alot on what the weather is like and how much change is jingling around in my pockets at any given moment. I used to always run 20-50, and in the summer in an old an very worn engine 70wt. I got turned on to synthetic oils when studying what others were doing for very cold weather. Deer camp can be as cold as -40F in the end of muzzle loader season ( january ). The synthetic oils have very good flow rates when it is cold. And Mobil 1 offers a nice 15-50 synthetic. So I have all the easy flow benifits of the synthetic and the good film strenght of the 50wt when things get warm. DF
 
  #50  
Old 12-20-2004, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
The only lifter problem I ever had with an FE engine was I flattened a cam on start up after a rebuild. Other than that never any other problem. The way the oil feeds in the FE's says if the lifters have an oil problem the mains have a bigger one.

Well said Bear!!!

 
  #51  
Old 12-23-2004, 02:25 AM
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What do you guys think of this. I have ran Valvoline in my engine since I built it (conventional and durablend) except for one change I ran Motorcraft 10W30. Now to my question. I had Durablend 10W40 in for a while and think it must be more thermally stable than Valvoline conventional. The p.s.i. was a little higher (around 4 p.s.i.) at hot idle, running down the interstate at high speeds. I then went to Valvoline 10W40 conventional and that it when I started to notice the differences. Mind you it may not be enough to warrant using one over the other, but my engine does seem to do better with the Durablend. It is 12:25 a.m. at my parents ranch right now and the outside temp is -2.6 (farenheit). I bought some Rotella full synthetic 5W40 and am going to try it soon. My engine has a stock volume/pressure oil pump right now. I hope I like it being's how it is a little more expensive than Durablend. It is cheaper than most of the other full synths. I see for sale but that could be due to the fact that Wal-Mart sells it in 1 gallon containers and I haven't seen any quart containers for this weight of Rotella. My engine had pretty normal clearances for a street engine (read: more on the tight side) so I think my cold pressure might be slightly lower when the oil is a 5 weight but should be the same hot as a comparable 10W40.
 
  #52  
Old 12-23-2004, 11:34 AM
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The guy that just rebuilt my FE says to use 10w30. I like Mobile1 so when I get 3K miles or so on it I'll start using the Mobile1. The most important thing he thought to do though was to add a can of BG MOA to get some zink in there. Most modern oils are low on zinc due to some EPA issue, so the zink additives help eliminate/reduce cam lobe wear.
 
  #53  
Old 12-23-2004, 02:03 PM
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I asked Valvoline about the supposed issue of the oil manufacturers removing the zinc additive from engine oils and they said that the oil manufacturers were reducing the amount of phospherous not the zinc.... Who knows, I mean they could tell me whatever they want. If you go on LAZERCAMS.com they want you to use a zinc additive like GM's EOS break-in lube. I don't know for sure about Kendall racing oils but do know that you can go to NAPA and get Valvoline Racing oil. Not the VR-1 Valvoling racing that they will likely already have on the shelf. The stuff I am talking about is labled Not Street Legal. The reason for this is the oil has increased amounts of zinc for more power and less wear along with reduced detergent levels. The reason for it not being street legal is with increased amounts of zinc, vehicles with catalytic converters may develop issues (must screw up the converter) they also go on to say that it's reduced friction properties won't allow a wet clutch to operate properly.
 
  #54  
Old 12-23-2004, 08:29 PM
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The additive in question is Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate, otherwise known as ZDDP. It contains both zinc and phosphorus, reduce one and you reduce the other. It is an important additive for the protection of your flat tappet cam. The diesel rated oils like Delo, Rotella, and Mystik JT-8 have plenty of it. The new SM spec oils will have very little, and could cause cam problems.
 
  #55  
Old 12-23-2004, 09:36 PM
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rusty70f100, thanks, I was already looking up "zinc phosphate" because I recalled that removing phosphorus required the zinc to go too - didn't get it in time
 
  #56  
Old 12-27-2004, 12:22 AM
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I've ran Pennzoil 30 w in everything from 460's to 300 inline 6's. When I pull an engine down it looks like it did when I put it together. Clean as a pin. Never had a problem.
I've pulled a lot of engines down that had been using other brands and I see a lot of sludge and wear. Maybe it was the driver. Maybe it was abuse. But my engines with Pennzoil don't show that. Just my opinion.

KitsKid
 
  #57  
Old 12-30-2004, 12:53 AM
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15x40 series 3 Valvoline is all that I ever ran in my 390,my engine man told me to run it or he would`nt honor the warranty.Never had an oil problem in 65,000 miles. T.D.
 
  #58  
Old 12-30-2004, 01:26 AM
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20/50 summer, 10/30 with 20/50 winter

It just depends on the minimum temps your working with or live in. In the S.F. bay area were 40 is cold in the winter i'll use 4 qts 10/30 with 9 qts 20/50. In the summer where temps get into the 90's, straight 20/50. By the way that is with a 391 pan, 13+ qts. Also how many miles or how loose the motor is will determine what wt oil should be applied. 537,000 miles is the longest, hard run engine so far and it was a FE. Carl.....=o&o>.....
 
  #59  
Old 12-30-2004, 03:35 AM
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I run Pennzoil in everything except my SuperCharged 5.4 and have never had a problem. When you start using different manufacturers oil is when you see sludge. My step-dad gave me '79 F100 years ago that had the valve cover gaskets leaking at 88,000 miles and when I pulled them off I couldn't see the springs! From the retainers down were a solid block of sludge and the returns were completely blocked. He always bought whatever oil was on "sale" and he would always mix a little Shell Rotella from a left over drum from his "truckin" days just to get rid of it. When i pulled the oil pan off that 302 it had 1 inch of solid "cake" that only came out after major sand blasting. In turn, i pulled the cover off a 22R Toyota of my father-in-laws with 240,000 miles that had never seen anything but Pennzoil and the top of the head looked like brand new.
 
  #60  
Old 02-16-2005, 02:05 PM
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castrol 20/50 with a lucas stabilizer , it has really helped the wrist pin knock
 

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