egr valve
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New User
Joined: Oct 2004
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I would think that it that would be a worst case situation my egr checks out mechanically valve is free no holes in diaphram no air leakage etc the only other code showing up is # 24 static test seem to be okay on coil and wiring not sure about the 2.2 inline resistor to the dip but then niether is the ford dealer all they knew about was the 1.8 noisae suppression one that a different animal even I know that would'nt keep it from fireing
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by tb123
heres a dumb question 87 150 truck still not starting ran code test again code 32 egr valve is all that comes up will a fulty egr prevent the engine from starting by itself
Engine will not start:
Possible cause:
EGR valve malfunction
Action:
Perform EGR Valve Diagnosis
Possible cause:
BVT(Back Pressure Variable Tranducer) malfunction
Action:
Perform BVT diagnosis
Possible cause:
EGR Flange Gasket Leaking or attaching nuts or bolts loose or missing
Action:
Replace flange gasket and tighten nuts or bolts to specs
Possible cause:
EGR,VCV(Vacuum Control Valve) or TVS(Temperature Vacuum Switch) malfunction
Action:
Perform EGR,VCV, or TVS diagnosis
Possible cause:
Vacuum Leak at EVP sensor
Action:
Replace O-ring and tigthen nuts to spec
Hope this helps, like I said I am sticking to your original question, abut EGR valves and starting problems. Also #24 in my books is an ACT sensor problem, it is used both as a density corrector to airflow calculations & to proportion the cold enrichment fuel flow so it could mess with the egr and give you #32.
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egr
yeah thanks it does help it gives me something new to try tonite I picked a new meter today and a fuel pressure gauge now I can go thru the electrical test on the egr and act my book cites act also as well as vat voltage along with edis fault and failure in coil primary I went that way first because it's more what I know (old school right ) fuel+compression+ spark= engine running) I'm pretty new to this computerized stuff thanks again for the help!
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egr
Would'nt have believed that the act valve could keep my engine from starting at all but that;s what it turned out to be. Plan to keep this truck for a long time love the I6 quuess I'm going to have to spend some time and learn more about the electronics an sensors that go with it.Need to learn about how to jump them for testing purposes etc . Do you know any good reading on the subject. Thanks for the help
Last edited by tb123; Oct 31, 2004 at 09:18 AM. Reason: spelling
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Postmaster
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I use a haynes manual for ford 80-96 trucks, it give you ways to test the sensors using a multimeter and vacuum pump in some cases, has worked for me so far. From my experience, I have had all kinds of trouble with sensors on the 4.9 engine. Good you found the problem though, later
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: South Dakota
Fort Motor Company Master Engine/Emissions-Diagnosis 1987 Shop Manual, Volume H is where I got most of the info I gave you. Search Ebay for 1987 Ford manual, or goto Helminc.com. to buy one. Ebay prices have been from $10-$89, and Helminc.com is around $69. Hope this helps, and glad you got your truck running.
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egr
Thanks but it's not over yet 2 days and $400.00 buchs later and I've stil;l got the original problem. The shop replaced the act. plugs checked fuel pressure etc. Truck started fine when I left (still warm) An hour later I was right back where I started. Engine turns over,fires up, revs up and dies. ands reeks of gas.
If I feather the gas and make several starts and keep the revs up it coughs and pukes it's way along until it warms up then it runs fine and restarts fine as long as it does'nt sit for more than half an hour. But that's how this all started in the first place , I'm sure it will get worse.
If I feather the gas and make several starts and keep the revs up it coughs and pukes it's way along until it warms up then it runs fine and restarts fine as long as it does'nt sit for more than half an hour. But that's how this all started in the first place , I'm sure it will get worse.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Foothills of NC
I'm sure you have checked this already, but how about the IAC. If it's just starting to go out it can cause the bucking and dying you describe.
Unplug the IAC, put a quarter between the throttle linkage set screw and the throttle stop tang in order to keep the throttle plates open enough to start. If the IAC is the problem, it should now start and idle. The idle could be high or low, according to how your butterfly plates are set.
If that's not it, then your EGR could be stuck open. Similar symptoms, won't hardly crank cold, runs somewhat better hot.
Unplug the IAC, put a quarter between the throttle linkage set screw and the throttle stop tang in order to keep the throttle plates open enough to start. If the IAC is the problem, it should now start and idle. The idle could be high or low, according to how your butterfly plates are set.
If that's not it, then your EGR could be stuck open. Similar symptoms, won't hardly crank cold, runs somewhat better hot.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 594
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From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Originally Posted by yardbird
If that's not it, then your EGR could be stuck open. Similar symptoms, won't hardly crank cold, runs somewhat better hot.
Postmaster
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Yes it opens the valve. There is a vacuum line from the coffee can looking thing (vacuum canister) on your passenger side fender that goes to a solenoid, when triggered the solenoid opens sending vacuum to the egr valve, in which the valve opens recirculating exhaust gases.
