I have seen most everyone's recommendation on the 6.0 forum for oil points to Mobil Delvac1 5-40 or Mobil Truck and SUV 5-40. I think this is their personal preference for their driving conditions, and I would like a technical overview of my choices.

Here's a little history of what oils I've used so far. Factory fill (10W30?) to 2,300 miles. Dealer oil change to Motorcraft 15W40. I changed oil and filter at 6,300 miles to Delvac 1300 15W40. Currently have about 9,000 miles on the truck.

The temperatures where I live are already down to about 15 F and we will definately see -40 F and possibly -50 to -60 F this winter. I am planning on switching to a winter weight oil soon. I was originally looking at the Truck & SUV 5W40 for the low pour point. I found I could buy the quarts for $5 each, so 14 quarts for my oil change is $70. I am not looking at synthetics for extended intervals, but for good lubrication in colder temperatures. I found that Cheveron has a 10W30 CI-4 rated oil (Delo 400) that looks like it will perform as well as the synthetic in the cold. Found this at my local supplier for about $8 a gallon, $28 for oil change capacity.

The Delvac1 has a pour point of -45C / -49F whereas the Delo400 has a pour point of -42C and -44F. Only about 5 degrees F difference, yet less than 1/2 the price of synthetics. The Delo400's base number is 10.1 vs. Delvac1's 12.0, and since I'm not worried about extended intervals, I assume this shouldn't make a difference.

Are their any other differences I should consider when making this choice? Are their any other CI-4 rated dino oils that would be a good cold weather choice?

 

In my blessed opinion, pour point means little.

Cold temperature flow means more to me, and the fact that one oil is rated a 5W versus the other at 10W defines it all. Both ratings should be at -25C (about -13F), so at -40F or so I would still expect the 5W to be "ever" so slightly more viscous and flow better.

Of course, you will be using some sort of engine heating device, right?

 

This is one application where I strongly recommend synthetic. It will flow better than a conventional at low temperatures. A 5w40, like Shell Rotella T synthetic would be worth a look.

Also, a magnetic oil pan heater AND an engine block heater are highly advised for such low temperatures. Just plug 'em when you get home and leave it that way 'till next morning.

 

Yes, we utilize the engine block heater and have a silicon oil pan heater to warm the engine oil also. I also cover the grill to keep cold air from cooling the engine compartment and vital engine components and fluids. It amazing how unresponsive the powersteering can get at -40 and colder. The tires even maintain a flat spot for quite a few miles down the road until the tires "warm" up. I will plug in the vehicle while it's parked at home and most likely leave the engine idling while stopped on errands (I have the Auxiliary Idle Controller).

If I follow these pre-cautions, is there still a need for the synthetics? What's the difference between pour point and cold temp. flow?

 

The pour point for a typical 5w30 conventional will be around -25F, while the pour point of a 5w40 synthetic will be around -45F. Basically what this means to you is that if you forget your heater one night and you have conventional in the crankcase, you may as well forget it because you may as well have grease in there. It aint going anywhere. The synthetic would save your butt in this case. I like to have the rated pour point lower than the lowest expected temperature. In your case this is not possible, so get the best possible.

 

I recommend the synthetic oil for Fairbanks also. It's much easier on the engine. As you know it could be +0 when you went go to sleep and in the morning be -30. And lets not discuss GVEA's record for power outages in the area. You can get by with a non synthetic but you better make sure you are plugged in for a couple hours before you start the truck up. I have done it both ways, but this winter I will be 100% synthetic in all my vehicles. At least after the first oil change on my wifes new SD after it arrives in Nov/Dec.

Have you checked out the prices at the sourdough bulk plant on Illionis street?
Shell Rotella T Synthetic case 87.50 (6 Gallons)
Mobile 1 Delvac case 91 (4 gallons)

I haven't heard anything about the Chevron Delo and don't know anyone who has used it in town. I have heard good things about the Shell and I have used the Mobile 1 Delvac in vehicles and in generators located in remote areas of the Interior. Never had a problem with the synthetic's except trying to do an oil change at -35 and having to pump the Delvac out of a 55 gallon drum. Drum wasn't stored in a heated area. Not fun, it still pumps but just not fun pumping.

 

Hawkins,

I find that the Sourdough Fuel bulk plant does not always = the lowest price. If you buy Mobil Truck & SUV (same as Delvac1) in quart bottles for $4.99 from Schucks Auto you'll be at $80 for 4 gallons. Who do you normally deal with at Seekins? I work with Steve Angel in Fleet Sales, but now my brother-in-law is a salesman there also.

 

Rusty70F100,

Chevron specs out their Delo 400 10W30 with a pour point of -44F, whereas Mobil specs their Delvac 1300 10W30 with a pour point of -22F. You pretty much agree with Mobil's spec of -49F for Delvac1. I would like to believe that the specs listed for Delo 400 are correct, but I guess it wouldn't be the first time that a manufacture tweaked the numbers to make their product look good. Chevron could also have a typo on their website it could be only -24F, I may have to call them to verify.

I have seen people who have cabins without electricity do some pretty ingeneous methods to keep their oil warm overnight. Some people would drain the oil and bring it into the house at night to keep it warm. Others, would light charcoal brickettes underneath the oil pan to warm it.

I understand the need to have proper lubrication upon start up and never start my vehicle without plugging it in for 2 - 3 hours before startup when temperatures get below 20 above zero. I may have to do some of my own "flow testing" when the temperatures get down to -40F. I have always liked the low pour points of synthetics, but the economics of 14 quarts in a diesel have me looking for other alternatives. If the Delo 400 lives up to the -44F pour point, it would provide good lubrication at a good price. If it was a typo, I'd definately go with the Truck&SUV synthetic.

BTW, I'm going with the Mobil 1 0W20 in my V10 this winter. Mobil states a -70.6F pour point for this oil

 

I hadn't thought of the Delo. If that pour point is correct, that stuff may just be the deal! Let us know if it was a typo.

 

Twin Tritons,
Walmart has the Mobile 1 in Gallon jugs for $18.53.
The Shell Rotella T Synthetic has a pour point of -40.

If you use the Delo let me know how it works out this winter.

How do you like your King Ranch?
I guess you could call it a collection

 

I e-mailed Chevron with the question about the pour point of their Delo 400 10W30. We'll see how good their customer service / technical support is.

Hawkins,

I found regular Mobil1 (but not 0W20) at Walmart, but not Delvac1 or Truck&SUV. Also have not seen the Rotella T Synthetic in stock for the last couple of months.

I started running the Mobil Delvac1 5W40 in my Bobcat loader engine. It only takes 7 quarts and I run 250 hours between oil changes, so it doesn't affect the pocket book as much as an oil change in my truck. If the Delo 400 doesn't work out, the Delvac1 is only about $35 difference per oil change; not too expensive for piece of mind with a $13,000 engine. I could also utilize one oil weight year around rather than switching between 10W30 and 15W40. I'll give the Chevron a try if they convince me the pour point is actually -44F.

We really like our King Ranch trucks. Suprisingly there are also about 3 other white King Ranch trucks in town that look just like our two. My only peeve is that it only came equipped with front captains chairs, but the leather sure is awesome. I only usually have to have 5 people in the truck, but it would be a pain if I needed to haul 6 people.

 

One thing that may help protect the psd especially in winter is some sort of preluber, a.k.a. pre oiler. I have a 6.0 psd & keep buying the same brand pre oiler as I've used for about 10 years. Basically they produce oil pressure in engine BEFORE the starter ever engages. Whether you use block/oil pan heater or whatever, you are still cranking your engine with 0 psi oil pressure. As soon as a 6.0 psd fires it instantly goes to about 1000 rpm's for a short duration & then down towards idle. At the 1000 rpm's you still have 0 psi oil pressure in engine. That's in the summertime. When I first got my '04, 250 last winter I cringed because with the 15w-40 dino, it seemed like it took forever for oil light to go off. Remember, for the oil light to extinguish, it only takes about 6-7 psi I believe. I know it's under 8 psi. I did not want my $12,000 engine being treated like that. When I buy vehicles I usually keep 'em until the garbage men put $5.00 on the seat when they pass by.

I bought a preoiler & run a 5w30 full syn oil in the Detroit area. Even on the coldest days with below 0 temps, I have the oil light go out before I ever hit the starter. I know it pressurizes the engine to over 30 psi before it ever fires up. I'm betting that with a good dino oil for low temp starts combined with a preoiler, you would have better protection than the most expensive syn oil with no preoiler & 0 psi at startup.
There's a handful of companies that make them but like always I kind of like the more expensive one the most. It actually has a 12v motor & pump to pump the oil whereas some preoilers have a sort of accumulator & 12v valve. I see all kinds of $$ spent on lots of goodies for these expensive trucks but very little on something as important as always having oil pressure whenever the crank turns over. This is especially true with oil & filter changes when the whole oil filter housing is empty & has to fill up with oil before it can get to the rest of the engine upon start-up. I got mine from www.pre-luber.com. I think there's more brands of the 12v motor driven pumps but you'd have to do a web search. One thing about that brand, they went from a more expensive designed pump years ago to a cheaper gear-type now but the cost hasn't gone down accordingly. I guess you get that everywhere. I still think any brand type pre oiler would be better than none at all by a long shot. I know this is lenthly but I feel strongly about protecting my psd as best as possible. Rick

 

yea Wallymart is hit or miss. The mobile 1 truck and SUV oil isn't CI-4 Plus rated. Could make a difference with the egr configuration on the PSD.

Mobil 1 Truck & SUV Formula
- API SL/SJ for gasoline engines.
- API CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/CF-4/CF for diesel engines.

Only place that has the Shell Rotella T synthetic is the bulk plant. Everyone else in town only carrys the dino version.

The other two King Ranch trucks are F250's and I think one of them is from Anchorage with a construction company. There will be a third F350 White KR in town come the end of Nov early Dec when my wifes arrives.

Do your heated seats get Hot?
Have been seeing posts about 04's heated seats not getting hot

 

I have seen the Shell Rotella T synthetic at Walmart, but like I said it was a couple of months ago. It was also older stock and was only CH-4 rated, not CI-4.

Congrats on the new truck order. You'll definately enjoy it, or at least your wife will When will your own King Ranch show up? I wasn't planning on getting a King Ranch like my wife's, I was only going to get a Lariet. They just happened to have one show up on the lot equipped the way I wanted it. Be sure they give you a gift certificate to dinner at the Turtle Club with your purchase.

I'll post any replies from Chevron on the Delo 400 10W30 when/if they respond to my inquiry.

 

Hawkins,

Yes the heated seats do get hot. In fact, I usually turn them off after 5 or 10 minutes because the start to get too warm. I have had them accidently come on at times, maybe the button gets pushed while entering the vehicle.