not with this starter, but i dont have a donor vehicle to borrow until tomorrow anyway, but yeah, i have tried that in the past and it seems like if i jump it off another car it turns over fine

 

its important to use a second battery and cables and hook them directly to the starter (pos) and block (neg) .make sure all coonections are and surfaces are clean. this must be done when the truck is hot and won't start in the usual manner.if nothing changes then its not in the batt, wiring or solenoid.it could still be a starter problem (take it off and bench test it,if it tests fine then look elsewhere for the problem). some areas to check make sure its not overheating,causing internal engine bind that goes away when it cools.make sure the starter is not binding on the flywheel/ring gear

 

??internal engine bind?? never heard of this, could you elaborate a little bit please, sounds interesting.

 

How is the cooling system, is everything up to snuff, big blocks can get real warm.

 

yeah, the cooling system seems alright, never seems to get too hot according to the mechanical guage

 

whoops-editing

 

hey, i am having the same problem with my 89 460 auto efi w/headers. the last starter lasted maybe 2 months. when the starter is brand new it works great for about a week or two and then goes slow. i also have a fairly new (2-3 yrs) optima battery that holds charge good,but i havent had it load tested. also, i have not changed the wires, but the resistances were fine. in conclusion, i think the starters from autozone are junk. so for about $180 i ordered a 160 ft-lbs Powermaster starter for a 164 tooth flywheel from summit. hopefully, i will install it soon and let you know how it works out.

 

hi , i was referring to the engine getting very hot and causing the internal parts to expand and bind which sometimes would happen if clearances were tight when and if it was a fairly fresh rebuild(bored out ,oversized pistons,rings).

 

Hi, Kermit--

There are a couple of unusual things you've posted:

and

First off, it would seem that instead of setting it "back" as you indicate (which would be retarding the ignition timing), you are actually advancing the timing, because that is usually what aggravates "ping", or increases it.

Secondly--to set the ignition timing correctly, you have to have several things:

1.) The correct idle speed as indicated on the underhood sticker (or shop manual)
2.) The vaccuum advance hose disconnected and plugged so there are no vaccuum leaks
3.) The correct timing marks on the dampener in relation to the position of the camshaft

This third point could be where the problem lies--you may have a dampener that has a slipped outer ring, and you don't have the correct timing marks.

This is the condition you describe:

And this statement especially caught my eye:

These conditions are usually indicative of too much initial advance. I would say that is further evidence that the dampener has a slipped outer ring, and the timing marks are not correct.

Furthermore, you said that when you "advance" it (which probably is actually the OPPOSITE--you're most likely retarding the timing), the pinging and starting issues seem to improve, and that would indicate that perhaps your distributor might have some faulty parts in the mechanical and/or vaccuum advance units.

Since you just replaced the timing chain, I would recommend the following:

1.) Pull the timing cover off, and make absolutely sure your timing marks are correct (you may have gotten it off by one tooth, perhaps advanced)
2.) Check the dampener timing marks against a "known-good" dampener, and make sure they line up EXACTLY the same
3.) Have your distributor re-curved, or purchase a rebuilt one, and make sure the vaccuum advance unit is working properly (and make sure it's connected to the correct vaccuum source--I can't remember if it's manifold or ported vaccuum on these engines, so you may need to consult a shop manual)

Once you ensure that those items are correct, it should resolve the issue; if it doesn't, then chances are there are other, internal engine problems that will need to be addressed.

 

i am pretty sure the timing on my truck is dead on because i changed the following: new timing set, distributor, damper(slighty off). the only thing i was concerned about was when setting the timing i could put the light at an angle off to the side or directly over the top which got different timing.

 

Hi, someday--

Actually, I was posting in reference to Kermit's issues--yours may be entirely different.

 

understood, but i am try to relate to his problem and figure my problem out as well. it seems like we are having the same problem

 

Hi, someday--

From what I can gather about your issue, since you have headers, and since you seem to be going through starters, it would seem to me that your problem has to do with heat radiated from the headers.

Headers are well known to have an adverse affect on starters, and so I would bet that you would be best served by installing a starter heat shield, as kjkozak2 suggested to Kermit in a previous post.

Try that when you're installing your new, high-torque starter, and I'd bet that takes care of the issue, once and for all!

 

I know this sounds silly, but are your plug wires in the right order? I have an 85 F-250 with a 460 and when I changed the plugs and wires, I switched #5 and#6 plugs on the distributor cap accidentally and it ran like you are discribing. Hope this helps a little.......Aaron

 

well, the only way the timing chain goes on is straight up, i used a stock replacement set, so i know the cam and crank are inline. i set the timing with the vacuum advance plugged, and i dont have a reference for idle, so i have been using 750 rpm. i thought too much advance, but no matter where i set the dist. it seems the same, and i have tried adjusting it as far as it will go each way just to see if there is a difference in crank speed. i get the new batt in a couple of hours and i will see what happens after that and post back here.

thanks