every so often my ranger would not want to start, i sometimes could get it to go by using either or putting a charger on battery for more boost, makes no sence cause its a new battery but thats what was happening, mostly when it was really cold out. well now it wont start at all, will fire off of the either but one the either is used up thats it. i do hear noise from the fuel pump area when key is first turned on, like its building pressure then shutting off, but theres no fuel at schrader valve on fuel rail or underneath when i took line off of back side of fuel filter. i bypassed the shut-off inertia switch and that did nothing, i do think pump must be dead, not sure why it makes noise like its pressurizing then clicking off but no fuel at fuel filter. is there any in-line pump i could buy to put underneath? bad time of year to pull the bed, must have 300# of stuff back there right now, cant drop the tank, its a 20 gallon from a '97 and while its securly mounted, its not really possible to drop it- and its full of fuel. if i have no choice but to put a new pump in tank, whats the best one? i damn sure dont want to do this again..... miss the days of a engine mounted pump that took 2 clamps, 2 bolts, 30 bucks and about 30 min to swap out...

 

If you don't have any fuel at the engine there are only a couple possibilities.. clogged fuel filter or a pump on it's last legs.

 

You may have more than one problem. Have you been having problems before cold weather?
Seeing as how your in cold country, could be frozen moisture in the tank pre-filter/sock, line, or in the filter, or as suggested a clogged filter.
Prior to this happening, Had you run over, or been in any deep hardened ice/snow that could have collapsed or crimped a fuel line?

Make sure the battery cable connections on Both ends are clean, bright & tight, so you aren't suffering any under load voltage drop, as that sorta seems to be what the past success with the attached battery charger suggests. So maybe consider using your DVM to perform some under load voltage drop tests on the battery, Both battery cables & to the fuel pump, or at least at the output side of the in cabin inertia switch, which will check most of the fuel pump wiring run.
Make sure the battery post to cable clamps & cable runs to the engine & body B- connections are clean, bright & tight!!!
If you still come to suspect the fuel pump, try reaching in there with something to wiggle the electrical connector at the pump.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

well the stock pump was indeed dead, ive tried something and so far its working, a msd 2555 inline fuel pump, 45 psi. mounted it right along side the fuel lines near the fuel filter. in fact now there are 2 fuel filters, one on each side of the pump, the factory line attaches to each filter and the other end of the filter has 5/16 line slid over the filter , the inlet to the msd pump is 3/8 so used fittings to make a 3/8-5/16 adaptor. power is through the underhood fuse/relay box, pulled the stock fuel pump relay and figured out which spot was hot with key on but off with key out, put a spade lead in there with a 25 amp fuse on it. pump is a little noisy (heck, its meant for when you swap in a efi engine into a non-efi chassis) but it works. gas guage still works, it must get its power source seperatly. was about 130 for the pump, filters 9 a piece, im guessing another 20 or so for the hoses, clamps and wiring. yes a stock pump might have been a little cheaper but it sure was easier and quicker to do it this way.

 

Ok good to hear your MacGyver fuel pump plumbing is working. Did you wire in a new in cabin inertia switch for the new pump? Don't want that puppy to continue running & pumping fuel after a crash!!!!

 

Yup, water = ice= frozen line???

 

need to hook up inertia switch, its warmed up a bit, might do that this weekend. fires up so much better now.