1990 F250 Questions And Problems
#1
09-03-2004, 08:58 PM
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1990 F250 Questions And Problems
I have a 1990 F250 Extended Cab, Longbed with a 460 and a 5 speed 4x4. I am having problems with my front hubs, upper and lower ball joints and I figured why not change the hubs to warn while I'm at it. I got a quote for $600 for the upper and lower ball joints. Does that sound right? I have a sound coming from my hubs. It squeels like a pig when I have it in 4 or 4 Low. I checked the fluid and it is there but it is a mild gray color. 4 low isn't one to take on. It will just rev when I have the clutch in and have the gear in neutral and the switch shifter in 4 low and try to take off from there. I have sometimes got it into 4 low when I have 4 high and stop and shift into 4 low. What does that sound like? What differential did the f250s have and also what rear end? 10.25 or the Dana? Is the front just like the 150s with the Dana 44 or the Dana 60? I can't find the tag. What brakes would I use? I found out that there are 2 sizes 12.5 and 13. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Last edited by TimMcGraw67; 09-03-2004 at 09:01 PM.
#2
09-04-2004, 05:19 AM
Postmaster
Your F250 4x4 will have the Dana 50 TTB front axle and a full-float Ford/Sterling 10.25" rear axle if it is the heavy-duty version, and a semi-float 10.25" rear axle if it is the light-duty version. The full-float axle will have a hub with 8 bolts around the end of it sticking out from the center of the wheel. These 8 bolts are not the same ones as the 8 wheel lugs that are common to both axles. The semi-float will not have a hub sticking out from the center of the wheel and will end flush with the wheel mounting surface, like a half-ton truck. The heavy-duty version will also have an 8800 lb GVWR listed on the driver's door sticker. If you have the HD 250, it should use the larger rear brakes. I'm not sure if light-duty F250's used the Dana 50 or Dana 44 TTB front axle. Dana 60 axles were only used in F350's in your year truck.
$600 to have the upper and lower balljoints replaced is a descent price around here. You probably need tie rod ends too if the balljoints are that worn.
When shifting into 4Low, stop the truck and put the transmission in Nuetral. If you shift the t-case directly from 2Hi to 4Low without pausing in Nuetral that will keep the grinding down. As for it not catching, it sounds like you're only going to Nuetral and not all the way to 4Low. On my t-case I have to push the lever down while pulling back to go from Hi to Low.
The squealing you're hearing could be because the hubs need to be taken apart and greased. The fluid level in the front diff should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Sounds like it needs to be changed anyways. The oil is drained by removing the sheetmetal differential cover. You can use standard 90wt or a multi-weight like 80/90t, or a heavier one like 85/140 if you are offroading in really hot climates. Would be a good idea to change the rear axle gear oil too while you're at it...
OK, on edit: I re-read what you wrote and it appears that you have the electric-shift t-case?
$600 to have the upper and lower balljoints replaced is a descent price around here. You probably need tie rod ends too if the balljoints are that worn.
When shifting into 4Low, stop the truck and put the transmission in Nuetral. If you shift the t-case directly from 2Hi to 4Low without pausing in Nuetral that will keep the grinding down. As for it not catching, it sounds like you're only going to Nuetral and not all the way to 4Low. On my t-case I have to push the lever down while pulling back to go from Hi to Low.
The squealing you're hearing could be because the hubs need to be taken apart and greased. The fluid level in the front diff should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Sounds like it needs to be changed anyways. The oil is drained by removing the sheetmetal differential cover. You can use standard 90wt or a multi-weight like 80/90t, or a heavier one like 85/140 if you are offroading in really hot climates. Would be a good idea to change the rear axle gear oil too while you're at it...
OK, on edit: I re-read what you wrote and it appears that you have the electric-shift t-case?
Last edited by SoCalDesertRider; 09-04-2004 at 05:33 AM.
#3
09-04-2004, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalDesertRider
Your F250 4x4 will have the Dana 50 TTB front axle and a full-float Ford/Sterling 10.25" rear axle if it is the heavy-duty version, and a semi-float 10.25" rear axle if it is the light-duty version. The full-float axle will have a hub with 8 bolts around the end of it sticking out from the center of the wheel. These 8 bolts are not the same ones as the 8 wheel lugs that are common to both axles. The semi-float will not have a hub sticking out from the center of the wheel and will end flush with the wheel mounting surface, like a half-ton truck. The heavy-duty version will also have an 8800 lb GVWR listed on the driver's door sticker. If you have the HD 250, it should use the larger rear brakes. I'm not sure if light-duty F250's used the Dana 50 or Dana 44 TTB front axle. Dana 60 axles were only used in F350's in your year truck.
$600 to have the upper and lower balljoints replaced is a descent price around here. You probably need tie rod ends too if the balljoints are that worn.
When shifting into 4Low, stop the truck and put the transmission in Nuetral. If you shift the t-case directly from 2Hi to 4Low without pausing in Nuetral that will keep the grinding down. As for it not catching, it sounds like you're only going to Nuetral and not all the way to 4Low. On my t-case I have to push the lever down while pulling back to go from Hi to Low.
The squealing you're hearing could be because the hubs need to be taken apart and greased. The fluid level in the front diff should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Sounds like it needs to be changed anyways. The oil is drained by removing the sheetmetal differential cover. You can use standard 90wt or a multi-weight like 80/90t, or a heavier one like 85/140 if you are offroading in really hot climates. Would be a good idea to change the rear axle gear oil too while you're at it...
OK, on edit: I re-read what you wrote and it appears that you have the electric-shift t-case?
$600 to have the upper and lower balljoints replaced is a descent price around here. You probably need tie rod ends too if the balljoints are that worn.
When shifting into 4Low, stop the truck and put the transmission in Nuetral. If you shift the t-case directly from 2Hi to 4Low without pausing in Nuetral that will keep the grinding down. As for it not catching, it sounds like you're only going to Nuetral and not all the way to 4Low. On my t-case I have to push the lever down while pulling back to go from Hi to Low.
The squealing you're hearing could be because the hubs need to be taken apart and greased. The fluid level in the front diff should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Sounds like it needs to be changed anyways. The oil is drained by removing the sheetmetal differential cover. You can use standard 90wt or a multi-weight like 80/90t, or a heavier one like 85/140 if you are offroading in really hot climates. Would be a good idea to change the rear axle gear oil too while you're at it...
OK, on edit: I re-read what you wrote and it appears that you have the electric-shift t-case?
#4
09-04-2004, 12:30 PM
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If this helps my truck from the factory was a Lariat with the Camper Package. It also says on the sticker it has an optional axle ratio. It has the heavy duty package from the camper package taken out but added on as a package of it's own. Are they the same? What is an optional ratio of that time? It doesnt' list the ratio on it. Why would my front end be a light duty but my rear heavy duty? Last of all WHY THE HECK IS THIS TRUCK SO ____ EXPENSIVE... LOL
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08-20-2009, 10:33 AM
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