My version of the Exhaust brake mod.
#46
11-17-2005, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ramsmoker
I thought I stated that it was an exhaust brake. I do realize that the trucks drive by wire. What you missed was that with the addition of the micro switchs all you have to do is arm the sytem and when you release the trttle, the exhaust brake comes on. In the auto trans trucks you need to have the converter locked for maximum holding power. With the truck switched in this mode, when you come to a stop it will kill the engine unless it is switched to off or T/C lock mode. In T/C lock mode, the brake micro will disengauge the converter while you have your foot on the peddle. Frrom here you lift enough to roll on your own and speed up to 15mph and let off the throttle and brake at the same time. The converter locks and sounds like a stick shifting. You shift all gears manually. If you can't tell by the intencity, Yes I love it. I did this because there are good times for both and now I have it. My wife is just starting to play with it. She takes off unlocked and flips to lock on the go.
#47
11-17-2005, 11:50 PM
my version of the exhaust brake
I realy like the way it works. But the problem is that I always want more. If I step up the turbo I'll lose thr EBPV so then I'll have to buy a "D-celerator" exhaust brake. I'm practicing here for how I will justify this to my wife. Christmas will be the determaning factor. I gotta come up with something to take her mind off my habit!!
#48
11-25-2005, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fixnair
The ECU gives an 8v signal to the solenoid. A full 12v for an extended period of time may damage the solenoid. Also in order to not get a trouble code and a check engine light, you must keep the original wiring intact.
I tested the stock wiring to the EBPV and it is 12 volts.As a matter of fact its 13.87 volts which is what the alternater is putting out.So putting 12 volts to the EBPV with out reducing it will not hurt it any.
#49
11-25-2005, 11:23 AM
Blueeys2478, it's true that the voltage to the solinoid is the same as battery voltage. However I would like to point out that the signal to the solinoid is pulse modulated. It makes an incandescent test light blink on and off very fast. That has the effect of greatly controlling the amp load on the circuit. The effect of reducing the amp load greatly reduces the excess heat that is generated by the coil. I would be very nervous of just sending straight power to the solinoid without cutting it down with a ballast resister. Check the original post that I made at the start of this thread. There is a Radio Shack part number for a resister that I tied into the circuit to protect the solinoid coil. The EBPV turns on and off just as fast whether the resister is installed or not.
#50
02-01-2006, 02:21 PM
exhaust brake 7.3
lets see if i've got this right, asuming i find the connections under the hood, its a van remember so not much room under the hood. being an automatic i chose a double pole single throw on/off switch, one side to hot when van is running other pole through 10ohm resister back to the solinoid no need to cut the ground wire, right? the other side of the switch will control the t/c lock up. does this sound ok to you, don't forget i might be the idiot behind you coming down the hill hollering Nooooo Brakes!!! thanks again phil
#51
02-01-2006, 10:50 PM
Originally Posted by phil haffcke
lets see if i've got this right, asuming i find the connections under the hood, its a van remember so not much room under the hood. being an automatic i chose a double pole single throw on/off switch, one side to hot when van is running other pole through 10ohm resister back to the solinoid no need to cut the ground wire, right? the other side of the switch will control the t/c lock up. does this sound ok to you, don't forget i might be the idiot behind you coming down the hill hollering Nooooo Brakes!!! thanks again phil
#52
02-02-2006, 12:42 PM
ok, my little pea brain is still at it, please bear with me, don't want to damage my most important ride. i think what your telling me is i need to put a on off switch between the low voltage supply to the solenoid on the ECU so when the switch is on all is normal when off i'll have backpressor from the ECU? if this is correct thin would i still need a new hot wire and resister? and if this is correct, i would just cut the wire going to the solenoid ,splice in wires long enough to reach the dash and install a switch, or am i trying to over simplify the whole thing? thanks for your patience please don't give up on me. phil
#53
02-02-2006, 11:32 PM
Originally Posted by phil haffcke
ok, my little pea brain is still at it, please bear with me, don't want to damage my most important ride. i think what your telling me is i need to put a on off switch between the low voltage supply to the solenoid on the ECU so when the switch is on all is normal when off i'll have backpressor from the ECU? if this is correct thin would i still need a new hot wire and resister? and if this is correct, i would just cut the wire going to the solenoid ,splice in wires long enough to reach the dash and install a switch, or am i trying to over simplify the whole thing? thanks for your patience please don't give up on me. phil
#54
07-25-2006, 09:02 PM
I love the exhaust brake idea. I drove a 36' straight truck for 1 1/2 years and learned quick how helpful they are. I wired two psd's the same day with these directions. The '97 works perfect, but my 2000 just gives me a loud hiss when I flip the switch. I know my wiring is right because this is the same sound I get on a cold morning when the truck is doing it's thing to warm up. When I bought the truck, this was not a problem. It started shortly after I used my hypertech programmer. Could this be a programming error? or has something gone bad? any ideas?
#55
07-25-2006, 11:38 PM
#57
07-26-2006, 09:12 AM
Originally Posted by DocEmmit
Could the EBPV itself leak? The noise is coming from that area. I was going to buy a four or five inch exhaust anyway, so it may be something I can fix when I do the exhaust.
Exhaust leaks are easy to find on a diesel. They always leave telltale black marks in the area that is leaking.
#58
07-27-2006, 08:12 PM
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long time ebpv user.
I believe the hissing noise is caused by the butterfly valave closing. Because the cross sectional area of the pipe is greatly reduced the pressure of the exhaust increases (which causes the braking effect). The velocity of the gases increase on the other side of the valve as the pressure drops & the area increases, which I believe causes the hissing noise.
#59
07-27-2006, 08:48 PM
I wasn't getting any of the pressure. I did check the bolts. I didn't see any that seemed loose. I took it to a very well known diesel mechanic. He lifted the hood and said, "You have a serious problem. All of your bolts are missing." That explains why I didn't see the bolts. He said it should be ok since the truck was still running good, but the turbo would have to be checked after it was taken apart to replace the bolts. This also explains a minor loss in power I've noticed. Not having the time to take care of this myself, it takes an experienced mechanic 2 hours, $140 in this case, if the turbo is ok. This also explains some of the loss in power. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it back and get the chance to try out my Jake brake going down the mountain on my way home. Thanks for telling me to check those bolts.
