Can you remove an NP 205 without removing the C6?
#1
Can you remove an NP 205 without removing the C6?
My NP-205 leaks badly in my '78 F-250. I have another good T-Case from a similar year Bronco. My mechanic said that all of the labor guides reccomend removing the C-6 and NP-205 as a unit, and separating them on the floor. He doesn't see why you would have to do so, and was under the impression that you could simply remove the NP 205, and leave the trans alone.
I need to know what to expect for the labor. He said the flat rate is 4.9 hours, but if he can only remove the T-Case without bothering the trans, it will be quite a bit less.
Any advice is appreciated.
Buford
I need to know what to expect for the labor. He said the flat rate is 4.9 hours, but if he can only remove the T-Case without bothering the trans, it will be quite a bit less.
Any advice is appreciated.
Buford
#2
Yes, you can remove the transfercase without the tranny. The top bolts are a treat to get out in the vehicle. There is not much room for them. Also, when installing, the transfer case is rather heavy to manuver around to line up the shaft, and the dowel in the adapter. It can be done.
Steve S.
To many to mention.
Steve S.
To many to mention.
#3
Steve is right. It can be done, but it's a heavy bugger weighing in at about 140 lbs. dry.
To make it easier, pull up the carpet in the cab and remove the big "hump cover". It's about 1 foot or so wide and about 2 feet long and is screwed to the floor with sheet metal screws (very easy to remove). That'll give you MUCH better access to the bolts.
Remove the shifter level that's held on by 1 bolt and disconnect the lever from the linkage. Remove the drive shaft (obviously) from the case as well.
You can make a bracket of sorts from a 2x6 that'll sit on a floor jack and aid in the lowering of the case. Mine was 'L' shaped with a 16" horizontal piece and about a 4-5" leg with a 45 deg. beveled edge. The beveled edge kinda hooks under the large rectangular cover on the pass. side sloped face of the case.
You can also put a jack stand inside the truck on either side of the hump with a heavy bar between them, and hang straps/chains down to the case to keep it from falling.
I removed and reinstalled mine by myself, but a second person would make is a lot easier and safer.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
To make it easier, pull up the carpet in the cab and remove the big "hump cover". It's about 1 foot or so wide and about 2 feet long and is screwed to the floor with sheet metal screws (very easy to remove). That'll give you MUCH better access to the bolts.
Remove the shifter level that's held on by 1 bolt and disconnect the lever from the linkage. Remove the drive shaft (obviously) from the case as well.
You can make a bracket of sorts from a 2x6 that'll sit on a floor jack and aid in the lowering of the case. Mine was 'L' shaped with a 16" horizontal piece and about a 4-5" leg with a 45 deg. beveled edge. The beveled edge kinda hooks under the large rectangular cover on the pass. side sloped face of the case.
You can also put a jack stand inside the truck on either side of the hump with a heavy bar between them, and hang straps/chains down to the case to keep it from falling.
I removed and reinstalled mine by myself, but a second person would make is a lot easier and safer.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
#4
Thanks guys! I will remove the carpet, and take off the trans-hump cover before taking it to the shop. My mechanic is a good friend and very knowledgable about most vehicles. He has every shop tool imaginable, so the weight of the T-Case shouldn't be an issue. He has two very well built Jeeps in my off-road club (www.ohio4x4.com) He has a near mint '53 *****'s and a mid 90's YJ and has made me a custom front bumper & winch mount for my '78 Ford.
Like I said, he was under the impression that the T-case could simply be removed from the C-6, taken out & replaced, but the labor guides said differently.
By the way, if anyone checks out the website, my username is RoyHigginsII, and there are some pictures on the board of my rig. I generally go out with the "hardcore" group and we don't take as many pictures as the drivers with "stockish vehicles." The name Buford stems from Big Ugly FORD.
Thanks for the advice!
Roy
Like I said, he was under the impression that the T-case could simply be removed from the C-6, taken out & replaced, but the labor guides said differently.
By the way, if anyone checks out the website, my username is RoyHigginsII, and there are some pictures on the board of my rig. I generally go out with the "hardcore" group and we don't take as many pictures as the drivers with "stockish vehicles." The name Buford stems from Big Ugly FORD.
Thanks for the advice!
Roy
Last edited by 78Buford; 08-03-2004 at 09:04 PM.
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