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On the vehicles I have worked on there is a straight vacuum splice about just above the AC low pressure pipe and mounted along the cowl panel, approx 1.5 feet from the Passenger side of the vehicle. One side is heavy tubing going to the engine and the other side is a flexible 1/8 inch tube going to the firewall.
Separate the halves of that splice and this is where you will install the new check valve.
On the hope that my vacuum canister was OK and it was just a failed check valve, I installed a Dorman generic check valve per your instructions and all seems to be working well again. Thanks!
Most E series rear ac problems I have found are with a broken door that the rear vacuum actuator is attached too. You would have to replace the door inside the evaporator box in the rear. Its not real had once you get the seats and side panels off and the evap case pulled loose, but its mounted in the bottom of the case in the corner near the wheel well so its kinda tight but can be done without recovering the freon or taking the heater hoses loose if you are careful
Hello, HomerWinzlow, Thanks for this information. I've been a long time 'lurker' of the forum, but a new member hoping to contribute when I've got some advice to offer. I was hoping for some extra assistance from you if you have a few minutes. I've got a 2005 E350 with the V10 engine that seems to be suffering from the same AC cutoff issue. When I accelerate hard or am going uphill, the AC will stop blowing from the normal vents and I can hear it come from the defrost vents. This is super painful when it's hot outside and everyone in the van is stewing in their juices. Appreciate the part numbers and a detail description of the steps you provided. I guess I'm green when it comes to the AC side of things and was hoping you might be able to maybe show some images of the locations where you are doing the work described in the check valve workaround post. My dad's identical 2005 van does the same, so I"m hoping to kill two birds with one stone. Many thanks!
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