1989 f150 regular cab wants roll cage in cab
#1
1989 f150 regular cab wants roll cage in cab
does anyone know where i can get a roll cage for the inside of my cab. a 4 or 6 point would be great. I dont want an outside roll bar, with the lights and all that. I want an inside roll cage, and i want to put in 5 point harness belts, that would bolt to the back of the roll cage. If no one knows of a kit, does anyone know who to go to so i can get one fabricated? Thanks for any help.
#2
#4
do you have any local race tracks (drag race or circle dirt track) in your area? if you do the i would go to a race and get in to the pits and talk to some drivers of local cars they will be able to tell you who to go to localy and when they do it it will probibly take a good licking and not break any welds. this would be the best alternative to a mail order roll cage.
#5
#6
any competent welder can do this for you. Not sure where you live, but along various back roads here I'll see signs for "welding" at residences, maybe you can find a "guy" who will do it affordably.
Roll cage designs for cars and trucks are easy to put together, simply read magazines like "hot rod" and "circle track" and you have enough pictures to get an idea of anything from a simple in-cab roll bar to a full 14 pt cage.
If you can weld, or have a friend who can weld, its a great DIY project. All you need is a welder of course, and a tubing notcher.
Since the tubing for roll cages is often thin wall (.125" or so) a 120V flux-core wire welder is a decent choice and they usually cost less than $800 or so for a name brand like Lincoln or Miller. Flux-core wire is available mail order, welding supply houses, and even Home Depot and Lowes.
A tubing notcher is a fun tool... it allows you to create "fishmouths". What this tool does is use a hole saw to create a curved cut at the end of a tube so it can mate to the side of a tube, and fit reasonably flush. Good ones are adjustable between 0-45 degrees or so, thus enabling you to angle tubes around things fairly easy. With flux-core mig welding, small gaps are okay as you can fill it in with the wire as it comes out, so it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect. Tubing notchers are typically in the 50-200 range, plus a bi-metal hole saw thats the same diameter as the tubing you choose to use for your roll cage.
I've done several over the years, and its a fun welding project. Cut all the pieces before you assemble it, and place them in your vehicle ready to weld, then weld 'em together.
Just make sure you're not welding near any of the plastic or fabric in the truck, thats a fast way to have a fire. Also, try to place tubes so you can get at the interior screws, so you can put the interior back in when you're done, assuming you want the factory interior (with "adjustments" to fit around the tubing).
Roll cage designs for cars and trucks are easy to put together, simply read magazines like "hot rod" and "circle track" and you have enough pictures to get an idea of anything from a simple in-cab roll bar to a full 14 pt cage.
If you can weld, or have a friend who can weld, its a great DIY project. All you need is a welder of course, and a tubing notcher.
Since the tubing for roll cages is often thin wall (.125" or so) a 120V flux-core wire welder is a decent choice and they usually cost less than $800 or so for a name brand like Lincoln or Miller. Flux-core wire is available mail order, welding supply houses, and even Home Depot and Lowes.
A tubing notcher is a fun tool... it allows you to create "fishmouths". What this tool does is use a hole saw to create a curved cut at the end of a tube so it can mate to the side of a tube, and fit reasonably flush. Good ones are adjustable between 0-45 degrees or so, thus enabling you to angle tubes around things fairly easy. With flux-core mig welding, small gaps are okay as you can fill it in with the wire as it comes out, so it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect. Tubing notchers are typically in the 50-200 range, plus a bi-metal hole saw thats the same diameter as the tubing you choose to use for your roll cage.
I've done several over the years, and its a fun welding project. Cut all the pieces before you assemble it, and place them in your vehicle ready to weld, then weld 'em together.
Just make sure you're not welding near any of the plastic or fabric in the truck, thats a fast way to have a fire. Also, try to place tubes so you can get at the interior screws, so you can put the interior back in when you're done, assuming you want the factory interior (with "adjustments" to fit around the tubing).
#7
yes any one can weld a cage but if you trust your life with any schmo that can weld go ahead. but people who do the cages for people who race for a living or are serious racers can tell the difference between some ons who has built a cage before and not. i do not know your skills, but i know mine and the first cage that i built got crushed the first time i hit a cement wall at a local nascar dirt track when a dude blew a tire and cut in front of me. if you decide to do it your self use lots of gussets to keep everything strong. by the way my skills are that i welded for a shipyard and ppg at one time and i had 100% penetration on almost everything i welded. i just depends on if you want functionalibity or looks. i am going for both on my next truck.
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#8
great points by both. I am going to talk to people who have had them done for there race cars. I know an older gentleman who has a 12 point in his 85 mustand that he drags. Thanks agin to both of you, and this website is an excellent source for info. As far as my welding skill, i have only welded for one day. part of our education in avaition school. I do however want to get a mig welder in the future to replace some rusty panels/floor pans in my 1970 chevelle. Thanks again.
#9
A good cage is dependent on good design, and good welding skills. One without the other gives you a false comfort level. Full penetration in the welds and good triangulation is key.
*I* would not let and "off the street" welder design a cage for me, I'd arrive there with the plans and the material, to your point.
But a good welder is a good welder and he/she can prove that by showing you some sample coupons.
*I* would not let and "off the street" welder design a cage for me, I'd arrive there with the plans and the material, to your point.
But a good welder is a good welder and he/she can prove that by showing you some sample coupons.
#10
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