72 F-100 360 Bad Mileage
#31
Like I said, it's only happened once. I drove from Creston to Des Moines and back. Gently rolling hills. Generally 15 mpg is the norm.
[QUOTE=baitmaster]25 mpg? Only if it was a down hill coast.
But I don't care, no truck payments, so I open the secondaries on a regular basis.
Got that right
[QUOTE=baitmaster]25 mpg? Only if it was a down hill coast.
But I don't care, no truck payments, so I open the secondaries on a regular basis.
Got that right
#32
I have a '72 Ranger XLT with a 390, Edelbrock 4BBL and 4-speed. Runs like a ****, but gets 12 MPG. Picked up 2MPG when I converted to electronic ignition. I can coax 14MPG when I keep my foot out of it, but you guys know the story there, I can't resist dusting all the jap SUVs that try to get a holeshot and cut in front of me at stoplights. HeHe. Dude, sorry, but you'll never win a gas mileage contest with an FE motor. Fact of life.
#33
orich,
Thanks for the info on the clutch. It was sitting on the fin side, waiting on the fan blade. Which was shipped at the same time, but did not arrive until this morning.
Sorry, I don't know what carb I'll be using. Also, don't know anything about rejetting, other than I think the needles are changed, if that's correct.
Don't really know the intake, whether a stock four from the boneyard or try and find an Edelbrock, maybe also from the boneyard if I get that lucky. Don't know anything about what model to look for, as well as what years to ask for. You had mentioned different motors earlier, what motors will their 4 bbl manifolds fit this 360, other than the 390?
Now that my blade has just arrived this morning, I'm going out and install it. By the way, I had mentioned earlier about needing a seat. I found a bench in the yards the other day in a 87 F250, that looked fairly good ($50). Got it and found that two back braces on the driver side were broken. Did a temp fix, installed the seat rails from my 72 and installed it with no hassle.
It is certainly a bunch lighter, which maked it easier to handle.
Thanks for the info on the clutch. It was sitting on the fin side, waiting on the fan blade. Which was shipped at the same time, but did not arrive until this morning.
Sorry, I don't know what carb I'll be using. Also, don't know anything about rejetting, other than I think the needles are changed, if that's correct.
Don't really know the intake, whether a stock four from the boneyard or try and find an Edelbrock, maybe also from the boneyard if I get that lucky. Don't know anything about what model to look for, as well as what years to ask for. You had mentioned different motors earlier, what motors will their 4 bbl manifolds fit this 360, other than the 390?
Now that my blade has just arrived this morning, I'm going out and install it. By the way, I had mentioned earlier about needing a seat. I found a bench in the yards the other day in a 87 F250, that looked fairly good ($50). Got it and found that two back braces on the driver side were broken. Did a temp fix, installed the seat rails from my 72 and installed it with no hassle.
It is certainly a bunch lighter, which maked it easier to handle.
#34
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When you get it running leaner by installing a hot and longer spark to the plugs & Headers, may cause it to run on the lean side. Plus lets say a RV cam, alum intake manifold. The main-jets are in the bottom of the float chamber.They are brass type and screw in with a hole in the middel with a small # stamped in them on top or side like 48 0.48 ford motorcraft and autolite are in 1 to 1 in thousands same as some small drill bits 1/16''= 0.032 and so on. Holly carbs is 1 to 1 up to about 0.055 then they got screwy with there sizes plus the pump shot jets and pump cams come in all sizes. But this is a long story. so to make it short if it's running rough and falling on it's nose at about 30-40 mph & pinging with 91 octane. and your plugs are not to high of heat range. Here's a Ez test with eng warmed-up and runing put your hand
over all air cleaner inlet opening. If your engine starts running smoother and faster it maybe running on the lean side. But if it start to load up with to much gas and wanting air then it's in the rigth gas range. Also read your plugs
if on the whiteside and looks like small bits of medal on the center of the plug it's running the lean or to low octane and yes it is melting medal from the top of your piston, enough of this we burn a hole all the way through.Other things
can do this too, but if it's in good tune and at the correct setting this lean or in a good range. For the old redneck shade-tree lean test. hope this hepls in some way. my 2cents
orich
over all air cleaner inlet opening. If your engine starts running smoother and faster it maybe running on the lean side. But if it start to load up with to much gas and wanting air then it's in the rigth gas range. Also read your plugs
if on the whiteside and looks like small bits of medal on the center of the plug it's running the lean or to low octane and yes it is melting medal from the top of your piston, enough of this we burn a hole all the way through.Other things
can do this too, but if it's in good tune and at the correct setting this lean or in a good range. For the old redneck shade-tree lean test. hope this hepls in some way. my 2cents
orich
#35
Orich,
It seems like a major undertaking on the carb. I've made a copy of your info for reference. You also mentioned a cam. At this time I had not planned on going inside, no further than replacing the intake. I figure I'd reserve the internal work for when it broke or gave me a real reason to overhaul, then the gloves would be off. I would send you an email for specific info on doing the overhaul. I'm hoping to drive for some time before then, if possible.
All of these little things I'm trying to do now is just to try and improve on the mileage some, so I would not mind driving it more often.
I put on the clutch fan yesterday, but had a question. Is an extention (spacer) needed with the clutch fan? It appears to be at the original position of the old fan. I had seen a spacer mentioned in the listing for the fan and clutch where I purchased it, but I did not get it. It just said another item some purchased when these items were purchased.
Don't know if it's needed or not. The clutch is 3 1/4" from the radiator now.
It seems like a major undertaking on the carb. I've made a copy of your info for reference. You also mentioned a cam. At this time I had not planned on going inside, no further than replacing the intake. I figure I'd reserve the internal work for when it broke or gave me a real reason to overhaul, then the gloves would be off. I would send you an email for specific info on doing the overhaul. I'm hoping to drive for some time before then, if possible.
All of these little things I'm trying to do now is just to try and improve on the mileage some, so I would not mind driving it more often.
I put on the clutch fan yesterday, but had a question. Is an extention (spacer) needed with the clutch fan? It appears to be at the original position of the old fan. I had seen a spacer mentioned in the listing for the fan and clutch where I purchased it, but I did not get it. It just said another item some purchased when these items were purchased.
Don't know if it's needed or not. The clutch is 3 1/4" from the radiator now.
#36
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A bolt spacer isn't used, 3''1/4 is find thats about what mind is. Now if you mean the mainshaft pilot hole adapter that centers the clutch hub on the shaft YES you do need that on the Universal fan clutches because the hub water pump shaft hole is bigger. And the FE water pump shaft is smaller.. One thing, I've seen a few times was someone putting on the fan the wrong way yrs ago. So check that! If it's running on the hot side your radiator may need cleaning or rodding out. And when it's time to replace the radi. get a 4 rows of tubes or the largest one you can get. I never had a fan shoud on mind when, I lived in the desert after or before the electric fans it ran cool enough. It started runing hotter a few yrs back so put on the shroud and it helped but a fews months later had to replace the big radiator after 22 yrs with a new recored with a (modine core) ouch$300.00 aaaand back to running cool again. And this passed yr. I put ac back in it so thourght I'd leave the shroud on for some of that good old STOP & GO city driving that we get in to when on vacation. Summit has alot of rejetting stuff for most carbs that you would want to put on your truck. It's a good sores.. my 2cents
orich
orich
#37
orich,
I did use the brass reducer bushing that came with the fan. The instructions said it was needed and it was. It also had instructions on which way to place the fan, so I think I got that one as well. I do have a shroud on mine and it's in good shape. The guy I bought it from said he had the radiator worked, as well as replaced the water pump. The water pump looked fairly new. I just took it off and painted it (Blue) to match the engine and stuff, after I cleaned it up. It was loaded with oil and dirt and valve covers leaked bad. The radiator is a big one, so I can only assume it is a four core. I never could see the cores inside to count them and tell what they were, like so many people say you can do.
On to the next project, I saw a FE 4 intake on ebay for 20 bucks. Did not really think about it, cause it would cost more to ship that heavy thing than it was worth. I'm going to look around the yards for an old Galaxy, LTD or something and see what I can run up on.
I still have the question: Do I need to change the heads on this 360 if I put a 4 bbl intake and carb on it? I have heard conflicting info. Some said it only applied if it was a 390, going from 2 to 4. What is your 2 cents??
I did use the brass reducer bushing that came with the fan. The instructions said it was needed and it was. It also had instructions on which way to place the fan, so I think I got that one as well. I do have a shroud on mine and it's in good shape. The guy I bought it from said he had the radiator worked, as well as replaced the water pump. The water pump looked fairly new. I just took it off and painted it (Blue) to match the engine and stuff, after I cleaned it up. It was loaded with oil and dirt and valve covers leaked bad. The radiator is a big one, so I can only assume it is a four core. I never could see the cores inside to count them and tell what they were, like so many people say you can do.
On to the next project, I saw a FE 4 intake on ebay for 20 bucks. Did not really think about it, cause it would cost more to ship that heavy thing than it was worth. I'm going to look around the yards for an old Galaxy, LTD or something and see what I can run up on.
I still have the question: Do I need to change the heads on this 360 if I put a 4 bbl intake and carb on it? I have heard conflicting info. Some said it only applied if it was a 390, going from 2 to 4. What is your 2 cents??
#39
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FE427TP, just said it right. With 4V heads you'll have higher compression but alot more power and you'll be putting your Foot in it alot more than needed.
A RV cam will not give you better mileage, you'll be "Lucky" to get what your getting right now! One thing about used Alum-intake manifold is what was done too them before you ended up with it. The hay day of the FE was to build them up for "big-power" When the heads where milled to pump the compression up more & more, then the shoulders and block gasket mating face HAD to be milled as well for correct fit of the intake-manifold. These's are area that you don't know about until to late. And your the new owner of a used alum- intake manifold that will only be problems .. If you have any exh. manifold leaks that have leaked for along time,like alot of guys here on this site to use this type of gasket or go to headers.(fact is) A long time exh-leak will burn out the head manifold mating surface of the "Head'' and will keep leaking until this area has been resurfaced (Heads & manifold..
Ps a good old book is "Holly carbs" tells all about jetting and so on..My 2cents
orich
A RV cam will not give you better mileage, you'll be "Lucky" to get what your getting right now! One thing about used Alum-intake manifold is what was done too them before you ended up with it. The hay day of the FE was to build them up for "big-power" When the heads where milled to pump the compression up more & more, then the shoulders and block gasket mating face HAD to be milled as well for correct fit of the intake-manifold. These's are area that you don't know about until to late. And your the new owner of a used alum- intake manifold that will only be problems .. If you have any exh. manifold leaks that have leaked for along time,like alot of guys here on this site to use this type of gasket or go to headers.(fact is) A long time exh-leak will burn out the head manifold mating surface of the "Head'' and will keep leaking until this area has been resurfaced (Heads & manifold..
Ps a good old book is "Holly carbs" tells all about jetting and so on..My 2cents
orich
#40
Thanks guys,
That's a big relief on the heads. I can now just look for the intake and get a carb to fit.
orich,
Thanks for the heads up on the alum intake. I'll look for that. It might be my best bet to buy new and remove the worry and hassle.
I'll look for the "Holly Carb" book and see what I find. The leak I mentioned were on the valve covers, not the exh manifold. The exhaust (stock) appears to be fine, no leaks.
I have read some threads earlier about popping bolts when trying to take off the exhaust. Looking at this one, it appears it has not been removed before, or it was a long time ago if it had been removed. I'll use some of the ideas about removing them safely when I go to remove them for headers. It will be a little while yet.
That's a big relief on the heads. I can now just look for the intake and get a carb to fit.
orich,
Thanks for the heads up on the alum intake. I'll look for that. It might be my best bet to buy new and remove the worry and hassle.
I'll look for the "Holly Carb" book and see what I find. The leak I mentioned were on the valve covers, not the exh manifold. The exhaust (stock) appears to be fine, no leaks.
I have read some threads earlier about popping bolts when trying to take off the exhaust. Looking at this one, it appears it has not been removed before, or it was a long time ago if it had been removed. I'll use some of the ideas about removing them safely when I go to remove them for headers. It will be a little while yet.
#41
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Yeah,Oh those valve covers, I didn't comment on they all start leaking after a few yrs. A lot guys never retighten or they over tighten bolts & nuts. Valve covers & oil pans are the big 2 of them. Remove old gasket lay v-cover or pan on a good flat piece of metal and with a hammer pound the pulled bolt hole flat again. Later some engine used a wing washer that helps not to pulling the hole down and not so ez to leak. If you use a sealer put it just on the cover just to holed the gasket on the valve cover. When time comes again to replacing the valve cover. Why it's easyer to clean just the cover next time it's off. Plus you don't have alot of gasket crap falling back in too the engine trying to scrape the old gaskets off the engine block.
I did change mind to Micky/Tom alum afew yrs back and still no leaks yet. Just check the Torque everything 8-10,000 mile and you shouldn't have any problem for many thousands of miles with alittle luck..lol Ps something, I may not tell of every little thing of how to do's. I kind a forget some of you guys are just learing how to do things to an engine.. my 2cents
orich
I did change mind to Micky/Tom alum afew yrs back and still no leaks yet. Just check the Torque everything 8-10,000 mile and you shouldn't have any problem for many thousands of miles with alittle luck..lol Ps something, I may not tell of every little thing of how to do's. I kind a forget some of you guys are just learing how to do things to an engine.. my 2cents
orich
#42
#43
Happy to say my mileage is right in there with everyone else. My 390 in my '69 pulling my 20' Baja boat got a consistant 9-10 miles per gallon. The boat on the trailer is around 4000lbs plus the box was full of all our vacation and camping gear. I haven't checked the mileage not pulling. I can say that the Bosch Platnum plugs I had in it were not the best plugs to use. Lots of ping and poor idle. I replaced them with a colder cheapo Autolite plug and it made all the difference in the world.
#44
michaelbrainardatwor,
Were you running an electronic ignition with the Bosch plugs??
orich,
When you said you got the cap & rotor plus tower from a 302, 351,400 ,460 eng. 1974 to 77 and stuff from a yard, did you mean I have to change my dist or will these fit fine?
I'm going to TX this weekend and I plan to check some yards out while I'm there, for some of the things I want to add on.
I drove the truck today with the new clutch fan assembly and it did appear to stay on the cool side. Even though we got to 102 or something today and I was in some stop and go traffic.
Check with you all later. May have some questions form TX, will drop a line.
Were you running an electronic ignition with the Bosch plugs??
orich,
When you said you got the cap & rotor plus tower from a 302, 351,400 ,460 eng. 1974 to 77 and stuff from a yard, did you mean I have to change my dist or will these fit fine?
I'm going to TX this weekend and I plan to check some yards out while I'm there, for some of the things I want to add on.
I drove the truck today with the new clutch fan assembly and it did appear to stay on the cool side. Even though we got to 102 or something today and I was in some stop and go traffic.
Check with you all later. May have some questions form TX, will drop a line.
#45
Depmiller....
My 390 has a Mallory Unilite distributor.... I saw someone mentioned Splitfire plugs here....in my experience, they are overpriced junk. I had a couple sets in an old car and fried the electrods in a matter of just a few months. I also tried running one in my Honda CR250 when I was into dirt biking, and fouled it way too quickly.
My 390 has a Mallory Unilite distributor.... I saw someone mentioned Splitfire plugs here....in my experience, they are overpriced junk. I had a couple sets in an old car and fried the electrods in a matter of just a few months. I also tried running one in my Honda CR250 when I was into dirt biking, and fouled it way too quickly.