I want to go ahead and replace my fuel filter before I take it into the shop on Monday. The dealer only charges $52.00, but that seems a little on the steep side to me.
Any step by step instructions or secrets anyone can share. Do I need to release the fuel line pressure before removing the filter? I do know that I need to go out and purchase the special tool for release of the spring clamps on the fuel line.
So, how about it, lead me along if you could.
And one again guys,
Thank you.

 

No real secret to it. Just pull the line off the hanger, pull the clamp off, (which may take some time, some are a real bitch) and beware of gas wanting to spill everywhere. You will want a separate pan or something to collect the fuel, but overall, once you get it, you get it. And just make sure you have the fuel flow going the right way.

 

Actually the procedure is a bit different depending on the year of your SD and whether or not your V10 is a 2v or 3v?

However...one thing that is the same is to release the pressure from the fuel line. I do it by removing the gas cap for about 30+ minutes prior to removing the fuel filter. Some folks remove the fuel pump fuse and run the V10 until it stops running.

Whatever you do...remember to cycle the key on and off a few times to allow the fuel pump to cycle the fuel in the line after you are done...and of course check for leaks.

Good luck...


biz

 

OK, I guess I will ask: What is the difference between changing the fuel filter on a 2V vs. a 3V engine?
And this is the first I have heard about cycle the key to prime the fuel line on a gas motor...is this something new. I know I have to cycle on my diesel, but never heard of it on a gasser.

 

I tried pulling the fuel pump fuse and starting the truck to empty the line already and to me there was no difference vs just pulling the filter. In my experience the fuel filter itself holds the gas more than the line. I just go under use the tool and gently seperate the fittings. Getting the old filter out of the holder is the toughest part of the job. I disconnect the front line first, pull the filter out of the holder and disconnect the rear fitting. All my experience is on 2004 and prior vehicles though and filters for them are less than $13 at Napa. All you have to do to prime the system is turn the key forward, wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to build pressure and crank the motor.(Kinda like on your diesel when your waiting for the glow plug light to go out before starting) I never cycle the ignition.

 

Ok...took me some time to find this "old" thread, but I think it may help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...p-install.html

Good luck...


biz

 

Looking through that thread I see those stupid little clips you get with the filter came up. The oldest vehicle I work on is a 95' explorer and it doesn't have those clips at the fuel filter and neither does my 04'. The 95' does have clips like that on the fuel line that goes to the throttle body. My 04' has a steel encased fittings on the front part of the filter (earest engine" and has the black plastic fitting on the back line with the blue plastic in it. The way Captcha described your supossed to push the blue tangs in with a screwdriver to release it. I just used the tool and sort of wiggled it off. I'll have to try Captchas way. Learn something new everyday.

 

Right dkf.

So...that must be the difference between the '99-'04 V10 2v and the 3v flavor. The 2v needs the special tool...and the 3v only needs a screwdriver type tool.

Hope this helps jonrjen.


biz

 

Now I did not cycle the ignition or release pressure because I did not know, and I did not have any problems after the fact.

 

hell i've been trying for weeks to change mine even had a few buddies try but it wants to stay. i'll take to my buddies shop let him try.

 

I ended up buying the release tool from the local Auto Zone. It was only a few bucks. It was still kind of difficult to change the filter (getting the fuel lines to release), even with the right tool.

 

I released the pressure by pulling the pump fuse while it was already running, but gasoline is still in the line and you're bound to wear it some when changing the filter. My experience with the "tool" for releasing the spring loaded latch on the line is to push in the tool and "the line itself" at the same time into/toward the filter to release. My tool set is those plastic cheapo's and they worked fine for me.

Good luck Jonrjen, good to see you around again.

 

Here's what ours looks like on a 2000 Ex w/the V-10. I'm on my way to get a new filter and the ring-tools. I'll post a pic of the tools in place on the fuel lines if I can make things work. Something noticeable I haven't seen in other pics is the bolt/clamp securing the filter; in all the other pics I've seen it seems the filter was just friction-fit in place. Sure hope I can loosen that bolt w/out busting it...

 

To get the clip out of the way, the first step was to unsnap the forward part...

 

...then the aft part...