expedition mach subwoofer replacement
#46
01-25-2010, 03:15 PM
#48
01-25-2010, 03:19 PM
Park assist locations try this
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rintImage('/alldata/AFI~V18558514~C35305~R0~OB0~P2R0X~N/0/80851247/81864438/83205149/83205155/34853741/34866247/82074287/81748157/89046457/86245949', 650, 408, 'printWindow', '', 'NONE', HIGHNONE);" onmouseout="this.className='sized_for_print_btn_rd y';" type=button>REMOVAL
- Remove the RH C-pillar trim panel.
- Remove the Parking Aid Module (PAM) .
INSTALLATION
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
#49
01-26-2010, 08:00 AM
thanks for the response.
i searched for that same sub you installed and found it on amazon for around $45.
so did you get this sub to fit in perfectly without doing anything to the current box?
i am not an audio guy or car guy, so since i am going to be doing this on my own, i am really hoping it is just plug and chug with this specific sub.
thanks again for your insight.
did you replace your 6x8 door speakers?
link to subwoofer: Amazon.com: Polk Audio db840DVC 8-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer (Single, Black): Electronics
i searched for that same sub you installed and found it on amazon for around $45.
so did you get this sub to fit in perfectly without doing anything to the current box?
i am not an audio guy or car guy, so since i am going to be doing this on my own, i am really hoping it is just plug and chug with this specific sub.
thanks again for your insight.
did you replace your 6x8 door speakers?
link to subwoofer: Amazon.com: Polk Audio db840DVC 8-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer (Single, Black): Electronics
I used to work on car audio a bunch in high school (many years back) so know the basics but I have a few comments/questions for anyone else who has been through the swap....
From other posts in this thread, I see a few speaker choices:
1. Ford 4L1Z-18C804-BA (I cant find this sub only part, only entire $260 unit from dealer)
2. JL Audio 8W1v2-4 (which I like as it is close to the factory specs)
3. Polk Audio db840DVC 8-Inch (also close to factory)
4. INFINITY REF860W 8" (looks to be a bit large although bnovak says its good)
The bottom three are pretty close in cost so that isnt an issue.
I have been looking for 4 ohm, 8" sub but is the enclosure size/amp between my explorer and the various expeditions and other year explorers on here close?
Next, has anyone installed a 8" sub and it works(and sounds decent)? I havn't seen a clear answer to that, but may have missed it.
Lastly, all of these speakers listed on here look to have a deeper mounting depth than what the factory sub does, so do they actually fit in the enclosure? From what I measured when removing the old, the top-depth mount (from underside of mounting flange to bottom of magnet) is 3 3/4".
For anyone who has the blown speaker, it isnt that tough to remove the box...only took about 15-20 mins of tinkering once I knew what to expect from poking around on here....
Sorry for the long winded posting, any responses would be appreciated.
#50
01-26-2010, 08:01 PM
Lastly, all of these speakers listed on here look to have a deeper mounting depth than what the factory sub does, so do they actually fit in the enclosure? From what I measured when removing the old, the top-depth mount (from underside of mounting flange to bottom of magnet) is 3 3/4".
also keep in mind and do not discount that there are also shallow mount subwoofers which could easily fit in that location. Kicker and Pioneer are just 2 that come into mind at this time but there should be more.
Good luck.
Maybe this weekend I will attempt to take apart that rear subwoofer section and try to install my infinity basslink self powered subwoofer in there, I have everything I need to install just haven't had the time. Hopefully it will fit in that location without too much modifications and I am able to reinstall the panels back in place.
#51
01-27-2010, 06:58 AM
Anyways, I saw that the JL Audio are 3 13/16 top depth mount so those will probably be the route I end up going.
Keep us posted with how your project turns out.
#52
03-14-2010, 06:17 PM
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if you haven't fixed the problem yet, here's something else to add.
either cut the cone thingy out of the bottom of the factory sub-box where the factory sub was bolted in in the back and fiberglass over the hole, or seal the screw hole up with fiberglass BEFORE ADDING A NEW SPEAKER. Just adding a new speaker and not filling that hole will result in the box venting, and not sounding correct.
Also, the factory amp puts out 85W RMS / ~150w max into a 4ohm load and is not happy running 2 ohm loads. It's not a lot of power, but it's not bad power either. I just replaced my stocker with an Infinity 8" sub from ebay for $65 shipped. Reason I went infinity is that it's a 91db sensitivity speaker w/100wRMS rating, so it's really close to the factory amp and can squeeze all the juice from it efficiently. Some of the other subs (JL comes to mind) while although really good subs, need huge amps and are rather in-efficient (82-85db range)
The factory box isn't really that bad. The plastic is thick enough to not flex under pressure. It does help to add about a 6x6" square of dynamat or similar to the back of the box though - helps reduce some of the "tinniness" of the enclosure.
either cut the cone thingy out of the bottom of the factory sub-box where the factory sub was bolted in in the back and fiberglass over the hole, or seal the screw hole up with fiberglass BEFORE ADDING A NEW SPEAKER. Just adding a new speaker and not filling that hole will result in the box venting, and not sounding correct.
Also, the factory amp puts out 85W RMS / ~150w max into a 4ohm load and is not happy running 2 ohm loads. It's not a lot of power, but it's not bad power either. I just replaced my stocker with an Infinity 8" sub from ebay for $65 shipped. Reason I went infinity is that it's a 91db sensitivity speaker w/100wRMS rating, so it's really close to the factory amp and can squeeze all the juice from it efficiently. Some of the other subs (JL comes to mind) while although really good subs, need huge amps and are rather in-efficient (82-85db range)
The factory box isn't really that bad. The plastic is thick enough to not flex under pressure. It does help to add about a 6x6" square of dynamat or similar to the back of the box though - helps reduce some of the "tinniness" of the enclosure.
I found a 10" Pioneer shallow mount that has 4 ohm model and it has a 90db sensitivity. Also has a power range: 50-300 watts RMS.
Do you think this one would work for the short term? I plan on adding a new Pioneer AVIC unit and a few amps but will have them proff installed.
Heres a link to the sub I'm thinking about?
Pioneer USA - TS-SW2501S2|S4 - 10" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 1200 Watts Max. Power
#53
03-14-2010, 07:39 PM
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There is another one as well in 8"..
Pioneer USA - TS-SW841D - 8" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 500 Watts Max. Power
Pioneer USA - TS-SW841D - 8" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 500 Watts Max. Power
#55
03-16-2010, 12:29 PM
I ended up going with a Polk DB840 8" Single OHM marine sub that I found on ebay for $60 with shipping and it sounds great! I filled the factory bolt hole in the back of the sub with epoxy, used the original screws that thread into the plastic cleanly and it really worked out well.
It beats the $400 that the dealer wants for the new enclosure.....
It beats the $400 that the dealer wants for the new enclosure.....
#58
08-05-2010, 09:33 PM
Trying to identify positive from negative terminal...
In my 1999 Expedition, the subwoofer was totally blown out. I decided to have a go at replacing the sub myself. I appreciate all the help others gave in this thread, including finding the bolt that holds the sub in place in the rear of the enclosure!
At any rate, I was about to unplug the wiring harness from the sub when I noticed that the wires were not marked as which one was positive or negative? What I have is as follows;
A black with green stripe wire with a large connector,
A black with white stipe wire with a small connector.
No marks on the speaker or connector at all.
Anyone know which wire is which?
At any rate, I was about to unplug the wiring harness from the sub when I noticed that the wires were not marked as which one was positive or negative? What I have is as follows;
A black with green stripe wire with a large connector,
A black with white stipe wire with a small connector.
No marks on the speaker or connector at all.
Anyone know which wire is which?
#59
08-11-2010, 11:52 PM
#60
09-23-2010, 07:47 PM
