New to this site.
This truck is a nightmare to the mechanic. Had to take it from him yesterday and drop it off at the FORD Dealership.
Truck- Runs great when cold. Warms up and between 40-45 miles an hour it shakes the stuffing out of you. Has around 66,000 Miles on it.
What it has had done-
New Fuel Cell (fuel pump and surroundings) Mechanic Claims low Pressure
New EGR
New Plugs
New Fuel Filter
Pressurized Fuel Injector Cleaning, followed up with Fuel Injector Rebuild on all.
#'s 4,5,8 Coils Replaced.
WOP- EGR Sensor
Anyhow, this thing is confusing to all that have touched it. If anybody has any Idea please help.....
After a grand at this shop It runs the exact same as when it went in there. That problem will be fixed when the truck is running correctly.

 

Have you hit any road debris? I hit a rail road tie looking object
made of metal straight on, and it blew out the bearings in my
Bronco II's transmission I think is what I was told. It would start
shaking very badly at the speed I hit the object at. I hit another piece
of debris almost identical a little while later and that didn't help.
New gears and transmission and it ran great again.

 

Sorry, forgot to include that when it starts doing the hesitation and you pull over and put it in Neutral or Park the engine has a miss happening. We had Ford do a test on it a couple of days ago and they said #8 was missing so we had the last mechanic pull the coil and check the plug.
He got a new Coil and Plug and Low and behold it is still doing the same thing.
When replacing the COP's are you supposed to change them all at one time?
Thanks again everybody.

 

When he put in the new egr valve, did he make sure and clean the ports
and passage inside the throttle body housing where the egr connects to the
throttle body housing? Also, is it idling at a consistant rate?

 

Idle is good, until after you drive it up to 40-45 mph. I don't know about the cleaning of the pipes. The wierd thing is when you drive it and let it idle after a few minutes it will run fine.
We thought maybe Torque Convert, but a tranny shop ruled that out.
I am really confused about this crazy truck.

 

Thing is, when you change the egr, you have to clean those ports
and passage or it does no good. Also, I'd swap out the IAC.
Do them both at once. Remove your negative battery cable,
remove the throttle body housing, then the egr. Where the
egr was attached, you'll see ports, probably closed up with carbon.
Scrape and chip it out with a hanger or screwdriver,
it'll take over an hour probably. Change the IAC. I'd also clean the MAF with Brakleen while the air intake is off. Put it all back together, and reconnect your battery. Let it run 15 minutes to relearn and see how it performs. You'll only be out time and $55 or so for the IAC and $5 for Brakleen. Good luck.

p.s. Is this truck throwing any codes?

 

Thanks for the Info. There are no codes coming up at all.... I checked with the last mechanic that worked on it and ask if they cleaned the ports at all. He said they put Brake Clean down the pipes and sprayed inside the Throttle body to clean it out.
The IAC, does that have anything to do with the truck when it is not idleing? I did notice that when I put my foot to the floor when it is at speed it seems to run fairly well but I haven't been able to really open it up. I don't want to cause any damage to any of the components. I thought the WOP (what the mechanic called it) was the same as the IAC. Is that correct or not. If it isn't then I will go later tonight and get the IAC and replace it. I know the part he replaced had two vacuum ports on the face of it and an electrical connection.It was a dull silver part. The new one is Plastic
Again, thanks for the info to this point.

 

Spraying throttle body cleaner down the throat is first of all not recommended.
The throttle body valve and throat is covered with a substance that is supposed to stay there. To get to what I'm talking about, you must remove the whole throttle body housing, take off the egr, and take a look at the place where the egr was connected. Carbon builds up in that skinny passage and clogs it up. It is a dirty job, and you must put in a lot of elbow grease. On the IAC, if it's in bad shape, you vehicle might not even start, and won't run right or die. Of course, I'm just trying to help from my own experiences.

 

Gonna go and get the truck from Ford today and pull the Throttle body off. Is there a gasket that will have to be replaced once that is done? Also, just found out that they never disconnected the battery cable when they were doing the work to the truck at the last mechanic. I will take it apart this evening and check down the Throttle Body and the Pipes with the EGR removed.

 

Cool. Best of luck. The guru's will make it around here eventually.
On the gasket, I should have replaced mine, but made due with
the old one. It's a soft, kind of metallic looking stuff. The IAC will
be the cylindrical object sticking off the back and left of the TBHousing
when looking at it from the front. The EGR is the disc shaped object.

 

Picked up the truck and drove it towards home from Ford. Had a strong smell of gas and then the Check Engine Light came on. I went to AutoZone and had them do the free test to tell me why the light was on and found out that #6 had a misfire. I inspected above #6 and found that the strong smell of gas was coming from the #6 Injector that they had rebuilt at the first mechanic's garage. It was leaking onto the manifold and making a running all over the place. I then took the truck back to the First Mechanic and had him personally come out and look at it.
Now they are going to be pulling the fuel rail off of the drivers side tomorrow and probably resealing the injectors again (at their cost). Funny the owner of the shop said when he drove the truck it seemed like he was always putting gas in it??? Go figure. Would a leaky injector cause the truck to studder at 40-45 mph? Was it not getting enough gas in the cylinder? Can anybody come up with an idea about this one???
Thanks again for all the help with this truck.

 

Have to defer to someone with more knowledge. Be sure to reset
your engine computer with the 15 min. disconnect, then let it run
for 15 min. It will run up and down as it finds it's settings. Good luck $kippy.

 

My guess that a leaky injector could cause the engine to run rough. The cylinder needs spark and fuel to combust. If one's missing, then the cylinder doesn't put out the power. Not to mention having fuel leaking onto a hot engine is dangerous. It would definitely be a good idea to have the negative lead of the battery disconnected when the work is performed. From a safety standpoint as well as to let the computer relearn.
I believe Ford has the diagnostic tools to monitor then engine when it's running. Has the Ford mech. taken it out and monitored what happens at 40-45 mph? Just my .02

 

Ford had given me a freebie...I am sure it will be put into the bill later. They hooked the portable computer up that monitors all 8 coils and they said #8 was mis-firing I only took it to Ford for that portion. It has been at this other mechanic for toooooo darn long. They are fixing the Injector Seal today and it will go to Ford on Tuesday, if it isn't running properly. I will have it in my driveway over the weekend so I want to try anything possible to fix it before they get it on Tuesday.
The #8 is what the shop forman said at that MPH was making the miss. They didn't dig in and say if it was Coil or Plug.
As soon as I get it this afternoon I am going to double check the work that the first mechanic did.

 

Well Picked it Friday from Mechanic one's shop. They had removed the fuel rail and found that #6 injector had a tear in the top O-Ring. They went ahead and relpaced all the O-Rings since the rail was off. The EGR was soaked with some carbon cleaner and was re-installed. Once it was all back together the test drive was taken with the mechanic.

The Check Engine Light turned on again, and this time they checked it right away. ***BAD O2 SENSOR***. Well low and behold he had an extra O2 sensor just laying around that had been taken from another Ford. Put it into the truck and AMAZINGLY the problem between 40-45 miles an hour was GONE!

No charge so far, but the owner of the shop is out of town and we have the truck. If this runs well over the next few days then we will have them replace the O2 sensor with a new one free of charge.

Thanks again for all the help everybody..