Greetings all. I have 2004 S-Crew with Audiophile. I am lovin' it. I recently added 20+ sqft of Dynamat to the four doors and under the carpet in the front driver and passenger floors. The effect was so good I am anxious to to put more dynamat under the carpet in the back, behind the headliner and behind the backseat.

I am having troble determining how to get the rear seat out and how to remove the "coat" hooks from the roof.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

lanepierce,
Sorry, I don't know how to remove liner, but have you already bought the Dynamat for the back yet?

If not, and you didn't know already, Dynamat is just a brand name for mass dampening material. You can buy it much, much cheaper from other sources. I bought some for my dishwasker about a year ago, and if I remember correctly, it was about 1/6 the price of Dynamat.

If you are interested, I poke around and find my receipt and tell you where you can get it.

 

Hey, Laine, was it hard removing the door panels and carpet? Did you have to remove the front seats to get the Dynamat in? I'm thinking of doing the same things.

 

Removing the rear seat is a treat.

I got mine out with brute force...I basically just started lifting and shaking it on the drivers side. Eventually it popped out. Once it was out I saw that there is a pipe that runs the entire length of the seat. This pipe sits in 4 "U" shaped holders, one on each end about 6 - 8 inces in and two evenly spaced int he middle.

Only the two end ones hold the sead in. They've got a weird plastic clip that does the job. I suspect there is a special tool that makes the removal easy as I was never able to reach through the seat or around it to push the top of the clip in to let the pipe pop out.

If you can get your arm back there you'll find that you can squeeze the top of the plastic clip, just above the pipe and it'll let your seat pop out.

The clips seem pretty durable so I wouldn't worry too much about breaking it if you need to use the brute force method as I did.

Good luck!

 

Twellmann:

Are you referring to the rearseat back? The bottom section is firmly bolted to the floor. Thanks - I'll give it another look.

-Lane

 

Toreador:

My son-in-law is a first-class installer so he did it for me. I watch though and it all seemed pretty easy. On the front doors, the control panel with the windows and lock buttons pop up. This reveals a bolt with a washer. Beind the door handle is a simple panel he opened with a tool like a dental pick (but a small screw driver would do) and that revealed two bolts (5.5mm I think) then there are to on the bottom of the door. The plastic speaker guard/grill just pops off - he used a 3 inch putty knife to get in behind it and pop it off without damage. The speakers can then be removed. once the speaker is removed there is a rubber liner along the bottom of the speaker hole that just lifts off and there are four plastic "things" that act as standoffs for the speaker and and point for the screws to bite into. These were a bit difficult to remove as they expand when you install the screws. To remove - he used a pair of needle nose pliers to get in behind and squeeze them down a bit the forcefully rocked them back and forth while pushing them out. They poped out nicely after a few grunts.

With those removed then the door panel lifts up and off quite easily. Just reach behind and pull the door handle cable away from the panel and it pops free too. Be sure when puttinf the door back together and reinstall the door cable to the handle the you push hard enough to lock it back into place otherwise it will jump off the handle when you shut the door. While pushing in back in you will hear a difinate pop indicating the it is locked in place.

Do not try and remove the back "speaker grills" they are part of the panel and do not come off.

He said he really liked the 04 F-150 doors - said they where easy to get in to.

For the front we did not remove the seats. By removing the plastic kick panels under the dash and the panels at the door threshold that has the raised diamond pattern - we were able to pull back enough carpet to put in the Dynamat. All those panels just pop off - just get near the hold-down point and give it a sharp tug.

When we pulled the carpet back we saw there was some factory soundproofing so we cut an "L" shaped piece and added the Dynamat around it. Also, there is a large bolt and nut that appeaer to be the point where the cabin is tied to the frame. I can't help but think it is a conduit for noise. We applied the Dynamat right over that.

I hope all this helps. It really seems like the average guy could undertake this project.

By the way - we used the "extreme" Dynamat. It is apparently easier to install cause it is sticky and conforms easily - no need for a heatgun I am told. It has an aluminum front that will cut you like a razor. Purchase the roller or go get a 1 to 2 in rubber roller from Home Depot to save your fingers.

 

Threadhead:

Got the Dynamat already. Your right they do mark it up! 20 Sq feet has a street price of about $150. I asked if they could give me a discount and the guy quickly said "Sure!" Then went on to comment that they have a large margin in profit on it. My son-in-law was with me and then the guy found out that he was a "first-class" installer. It didn't buy me any additional discount but we had good rapport wih the sales staff and when I bought more Dynamat I didn't need to ask for the discount again.

Now that I know there is something else available - next time, I'll do a bit of research. I have to admit though - I wasn't keen to spend that kind of money but once installed I was genuinly suprised at the results. Twice while driving around I heard new stuff on songs I have been listening to for 20 years!

-Lane

 

I found my receipt and I paid about $45 for 18sqft (plus a little for shipping).

If anyonne is interested in the link, let me know and I'll post it.

 

i am interested thanks

 

Are you sure it's the same stuff as the Dynamat? Isn't Dynamat supposed to have the highest quality or is that just marketing? And thanks for the info, Lane.

 

Thanks, Lane, I'm pretty sure I'll be giving this a shot. Just to be clear, you did not remove the factory soundproofing? Just worked around it with the Dynamat? Was the cab sound very noticable when you next drove? And finally, are you thinking of replacing the soundproof mat under the hood? It seems like a cheap looking mat. Thanks.

 

Toreador:

We did not remove the factory soundproofing. It didn't look as 'beefy' as the Dynamat but - what the heck - we put Dynamat around it. Really just on the top and outside next to the doors. The effect was noticable. moreso than I presumed it would. Being that we did 4 doors and the front floor boards all at the same time, I can't say what may have made the most difference. I am looking to do the rear seat floorboards, directly under the sub, behind the rearseat and the roof. Son-in-law say that the most effective piece will be the one directly under the sub. It has something to do with dampening any vibration loss - I dunno - it is beyond my knowledge but the stuff works. ;-)

I do not know anything about the soundproof mat under the hood. Would that help quiet the inside???

I am still looking for someone who can advise how to remove thos little coat hooks so I can get the headliner down.

Thanks all,

-Lane

 

I am 99.9% sure. I have held both in my hand, felt them, bent them, and can not tell a difference... except for the adhesive backing and price. Of course, I'm sure they have a very long list of reasons their brand is better and you shoud pay extra for their stuff.

There are many kinds of mass dampening acoustic material. Viscoelastic Asphalt (Dynamat) is nothing unique.

I still have some sitting around and would be happy to send you a small piece.

I do know that Dynamat makes a 'more flexible' version and I have not seen that or tried to find another manufacturer.

 

Yes, the mat under the hood is for noise reduction. Dyanamat actually sells material specifically for reducing hood noise. This thread has convinced me to go all the way in quiet reduction technology. I'm going to make the "quiet steel" quiet truck THE most quiet ride ever. I would have paid another $500 if they would do this initially from the factory, but now I'll have to do it myself.

 

Cool. Keep us posted. It will probably be Christmas before I can complete my Dynamat job. Son-in-law (who does the work) lives in TX and I am in GA.

-Lane