I have had this truck since it was new and has approx. 86,000 miles. I have recently had a problem getting truck started. When it is cold it seems to start, but after warms up it will act like it is not getting fuel. I have tested fuel pressure on fuel pump and while turning truck over it would pump up to around 4 lb, but after I stop turning truck over it will loose this pressure completely. I changed fuel pump thinking maybe a check valve was not holding but it has not helped. When truck is running it runs like a clock but it seems like its not getting fuel when I try to restart it. Could someone please help me with this frustrating issue?

 

My guess is the Fuel supply hose has a leak, and your getting air instead of fuel. The Check Valves in the fuel pump dont hold for long.
When you crack a Fuel line at the Injector while it's staggering, do you get a miss?

 

I have not tried that. I have tried all day sunday to get it started again and run out of time to fool with it. The fuel line you are talking about, should I see a leak or is it possible for it to draw air without seeing a leak. Have you had similar problems? Thanks for responding.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Aug-01 AT 02:03 PM (EST)[/font][p]the only way to check for sucking air is to install a length of clear plastic line in place of the OEM line on the low pressure (suction) side. Any air in the system will then be visible as tiny bubbles. It's a process of elimination to find the culprit. This can be made easier by either bypassing components until the line clears up, or by installing sections of clear line at each component to see where the bubbles start. If drawing fuel directly from a fuel can solves the problem, you are more than likely sucking air somewhere, but alot of air generally means low power too.

Also, it's been awhile since I last worked on a 7.3, but I seem to remember that the fittings at the transfer pump were sealed with a rubber grommet around the line. If this is still true, check these grommets for cracks.

 

Dan, Rob has it right. I'm sorry I did'nt make it clearer. The Pin holes would be on the Low pressure side. From the Tank's and Tank Selector valve up to the Low pressure fuel pump. Some people call that the lift pump. The best place to look for bad lines is back by the Selector Valve. Yes, I've had that problem, but it was with a Gas Vehicle.

Get a can of Diesel, and a length of Fuel hose and run a test line from the Can to the suction side of the Pump. It's a Booger to get to that fitting, but be sure you are going right to the pump. By-passing the Truck's fuel supply system completly.
I finally had to pull the Radiator to change my Fuel Pump. I just couldn't get a grip on those fittings.

I'm real curious about one thing I missed, if you included it in the other Post's.
Does it start if you prime it with a little Diesel right down the Air inlet?
If it will start that way, Just getting fuel to the injectors is the Problem, and all you have to do is just keep plugging away, one step at a time, till you find it!

 

Thanks for response. I talked to a mechanic monday and he told me of a bulletin that Ford sent out a few years ago about fuel returns. It said to remove hose from return to tank ( back by bell housing ) and actually make hose long enough to make a loop up firewall to create a trap. This is to prevent fuel drain back, and also remove return line from injector to filter and cap off. I have done this but and it did not help me but I thought I would pass on this info. Thanks again

 

I'm having a simular problem with my 96' PSD. (109,000 miles)It startes fine cold, but after it has been running and the temp guage startes to rise it gets harder and harder to start. It cranks just fine it just will not fire. If I let it sit for a while and the temp guage goes back down it will start just fine, but if I were to drive to the store shut it down and try to restart it 10 minutes later it will not fire. A little WD40 to the breather and it starts right away.

This just started withen the last week so I guess I glad to hear someone else is having the same problem.

Could this be related to a Battery problem?? Mine are 2 years old and it's pretty warm down here in south Texas.

I read on an earlier post (08-Jun-01 alantbird) was having a simular problem and as of his last post seems to have corrected his problem by replacing his alternator.

Hope some one can provide a solution to both of our problems.

This does not make a lot of sence to me because as I said I have no problem crainking it just does not want to fire if the block is warm at all.

 

Try this link to another BB on PSD. http://www.freeautoadvice.com/board/ubbhtml/Forum8/HTML/001794.html

 

does it shut down ? aghhhh.... why must you always start with the expencive stuff chances are the air leak is in the sediment bowl on the fuel filter(bad o ring ) or at the fuel returns (bad o rings) oh by the way the buliten sent our by ford is about cross-fueling and doenst pretain to diesels

 

I was just reading a magazine which said that if the gap on piston rings was too small, when the rings got warmer the engine would be harder to start.'

Logan

 

i to am having this problem with my 6.9 i think i am getting close if my wife and money hold out i will let you know if (and when) i find it .....you are not alone mike

 

I have heard that the injectors and injecter pump on the early 7.3's have to be replaced after about 60000-80000 miles. Just a thought.

 

just a comment refering to the changing of pumps and injectors at about 60000 miles.. I have a 93 7.3 none turboed diesle and it had 244,000+ km on it which translates to about 152,500+ miles. and have not touched the pump or injectors yet... just my two bits worth
am thinking that it will most likely be an air leak somewhere
but am not a mechanic

 

YooHoo, Dannu come on Back!
Tell us what the problem was.

Roaring is right, the pumps and injectors will keep on trucking till the wheels come off.

Then you change it all out and go again. Mine has 132K+ on the Re-man engine. I'm assuming the Pump was Re-man as well. If not, and the Pump is oringinal, it's got over 160K on it.

Mine's idiling a little rough, and occasionaly it acts like it wasn't getting all the fuel it needed on startup. But other than that, I'll keep it as it is for as long as I can maintain my license!