Done search never found what im looking for

Have a 95 f150 4x4 and recently cant drive because i cannot shift into 1st or 2nd for the life of me. I took the top plate off the tranny (without dropping the tranny) Thanks to the body lift. I guess the only plus to the 3" body lift . Everything looks fine inside from what i can tell anyways, but where the shifter goes in it looks like there should be 2 pins on either side of the top plate, i only have 1. Could this be why im not shifting into 1st or 2nd?

Thanks again

 

Anybody (bump)

 

Hey I know what your problem is, i had this problem in my M5OD, turns out if you cant change into first and second I would assume your shift forks are worn out, see the shift fork looks fine at first sight but look close at both 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th... theyll have a slight bit of metal that actually goes into the synchro, this is probably worn out and its causing your problems. I bet your 3rd/4th are worn too (still shift into gear but very thin). Check it out it should have a good beer bottle thickness left if not then its worn and you need a new tower. Or you can rebuild it by buying new forks from FORD. Towers here in Canada run $250 dollars (rebuilt)

 

Yes i think its my 1st and 2nd fork aswell. I drained my tranny and it had lots of filings in there. I had drained it about 2.5 months ago too. I pulled the top cover off of my tranny and looked at the shift forks, 1st/2nd is completely worn and the other fork is half decent. Ford is getting me a fork for $140 Canadian and half hour labour, so thats not bad. Where the shifter goes in the top plate there is 2 pins that center and hold the shifter in place and im missing one now, i guess i will have to take it to a machine shop or something because its peened in place. I dont want to crack that top cover as its $450 at ford. I took some pics and added them into my gallery of the top cover. You cant really see the shape of the fork that much though. I was able to take the cover off of my tranny thanks to a 3" body lift. (And people say body lifts are crappy lol)Thompson eh? Is that Thompson Manitoba? Thanks Squiggy!

 

Yeah thats Thompson, Manitoba. Ive lived here all my 21 years of life. Pulled my Tranny today to change the slave cylinder. It was getting really bad. I bought one from the company Wagner brake products, turned out to be a good unit. Some guy at a Transmission parts shop tells me that only Ford Slave cylinders are any good. But... this one works. Hmm... I got a 4x2 so taking the tranny out is way easier, less to do and lighter without a heavy T case. I had filings like hell in mine too. But I replaced my 3rd/4th synchro last year and Is still holding up, now 1st/2nd grinds like hell all the time everytime. I found a rebuild kit with all synchros for 400 + Bearings. Nice price for a good kit, considering Ford sells one synchro for 245 dollars. I almost died when the guy at the transmission shop told me all the synchros and bearings, seals, and gaskets, rubber plugs everything to rebuild it bottom up for 400 Dollars. But the transmission is back in grinding like hell still.

- I wanted to convert my truck to 4x4. But the tranny is different for 4x4s. The output shaft is shorter and the tailshaft housing is made to adapt to the T-case, so I was wondering if it would be smarter to rebuild it with another output shaft out of a 4x4 tranny.?? hmm.... Good thinking eh? LOL

 

if you do decide to get another tranny i would throw in a zf out of a f250/350. Thats what im thinking once this crappy mazda is hooped. I got my flywheel machined, new slave, pilot and throwout bearing installed about 5 months ago. Ever since they did that i now grind 1st and 2nd. I have to be at a complete stop before i down shift into 1st or she will grind, 2nd will grind if im downshifting at a higher speed and when i upshift, kind of sounds like a syncro? The syncro looks fine though. Hopefully it was just the fork. If it still grinds i am going to throw in a new master cylinder ($140CAN) Ford. I had a new one now for 5 months. I am also going to try to adjust my stroke length to the master cylinder push rod. I have heard that works well as the clutch might not be disengaging all the way from lack of a push. You might want to try that aswell if your tranny is fine. I bought a new bracket where the pushrod connects to the pedal aswell because they are splined on there and i replaced that stupid little plastic bushing on the end of the pushrod. I will get more pics tonight and post them in my gallery. Does 1st/2nd grind when your at a complete stop? Another thing to check is push the clutch pedal in with your hand and watch where the master goes through the firewall. Is there flex in the floor? There shouldnt be as this will cause a shorter stroke length of pressure to the slave cylinder. Well boss is here better go.
GO FLAMES GO!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yahoooo! im driving, truck has been down for a month and got her going last night. Changed the shift fork and she never shifted so smooth before. No more grinding.

 

Yeah there is nothing to those transmissions. good luck with the sychro, I repalced my shift forks and it still grinds

 

I replaced the fork and it grinds 2nd a little bit every now and then but not a hard grind. Probably syncro getting worn. They say that atf is hard on those syncros and you should use atf with someting else in it but i dont remember off the top of my head. im just glad i can drive again.