I just got done hammering the dents out of my oil pan (front sump 390) and did a test fit to check clearances on the oil pump pick-up, etc. when I realized that my ARP rear main bolt heads are about 1/8 inch too tall to allow the pan to seat squarely on the block. I don't have the gasket yet, so I was fitting it without it. The way I see it, this gives me four options:

1. Somehow bend the oil pan out around the two rear main bolts to allow it to seat all the way. I'm not real crazy about this because I'm afraid it would mess up the oil pan seal to the block.

2. Replace my two ARP rear main bolts with grade 8 bolts with shorter heads. I'm not real crazy about this because not only did I pay good money for those bolts, but I did so because I wanted the best main bolts available.

3. Remove my rear main cap, and have it machined to accept the tall bolt heads. I'm not real crazy about this because it is a pain to remove and install, and would weaken the rear main cap. Plus, then I would have to mess with the rear main seal again, which I was so meticulous in installing the first time.

4. Remove the rear main bolts, and grind the heads of them down 1/8 inch.

If anyone out there has ever had this problem, I'd really be thankful if you could give me some advice. Thanks!

 

If you are running a windage tray you should have enough clearance. If not try laying 2 rubber gaskets down and then fitting it. I wonder if this problem is new with the ARP bolts becasue the studs were the only problems in the past from what I have heard. You should be able to grind them down if all else fails but don't get them hot.

 

If using the windage tray grind a relief for the bolt heads to go thru. If not then grinding the heads down is the best option...just be sure to go slowly so as not to overheat them ruining the temper.

 

If you remember I just recently had this problem but the windage tray saved me , with the two gaskets, but since ur just using an oil pan i say grind them also. Makes more sense

 

Just put the bolts in a bridgeport. Use a 4 flute end mill of your choice. Run fast spindle speed and slow feed. Machine some off the top of the bolts.

 

Well, after examining the bolt heads, I think grinding them is out. The head is not that tall, but the flange under it is what's causing the added height. If I ground the head down, I'm afraid there wouldn't be enough left to torque on.

I may try doubling up on the gaskets. My only concern there is that being a two piece gasket, i would think that it would be prone to leaking where the timing cover meets the block. Does anyone know if there is a one piece gasket available? Also, if i'm going to double them up, would it be better to go rubber or cork?

 

Cork is junk. The felpro fiber/rubber gaskets work well. I would mill the bolts or even part the ends off in a lathe. You should still have enough of the hex left to torque the bolts with a 6 point socket. I'm running a windage tray and rear sump pan and didn't encounter this problem. I did have to use a burr to clearance my erson roller rockers for the arp head bolts. One thing that has caught my attention about ARP is they've stopped sending thier assembly lube out with all the fasteners you buy. You have to buy it seperately now.

 

Problem solved....I hope. I called ARP and spoke to a guy who was not a lot of help, and suggested I take a ball peen hammer and make the necessary adjustments to my oil pan. He didn't seem to understand that I was somewhat expecting a main bolt set sold speciffically for the FE series to fit an FE block with original main caps and oil pan. So, I called back, and got ahold of a gal who located a substitute bolt from another application (pro series) with a reduced height 12 point head. She gave me the torque specs, asked if I still had any assembly lube left, and told me she was shipping them out ground today at no charge.

 

heheh "ball peen hammer" , he really said that? , I wonder if he qualifies for his job

 

Yeah, he really said that. The funny thing was the whole time I could hear a woman in the background who was also taking support calls (probably handled 5 or 6 calls during our conversation). She was friendly, efficient, and sounded knowlegable. I believe it was her I reached when I called back. If anyone ever has any need to call ARP for tech support, her name was Deb, I believe. Strangely, in my conversation with Deb, a ball peen hammer never entered the discussion.

 

Service people like Deb can make or break a company! I'd send an e-mail the the ARPweb site and let them know that they have a excellent employee. Might make a difference around bonus time!

 

I thought about beating my oilpan when I used the studs as they stuck out much further than your bolts. But then I thought about how hard it would be to get the pan to seal against the block after that and decided to grind the studs down. I'm glad I did.

ARP is very good about customer satisfaction though. On the engine bolt kit I bought it said that the required bolts to complete and FE build have changed over the years and the kit amy not contain all the bolts I need and to call them with the missing bolts and they would ship them at no charge. I didn't have to call though which was the best thing of all.

 

I also thought it would be difficult to get the pan to seal to the block if I altered the mating surface. There's not much on the back as there is.

I'm using the engine fastner kit too, and it had that same notice.