Epoxy Primer on Bare metal
#16
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Willamette Valley Oregon
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Here is the p-sheet for your MC161 (#8 on your list) :
P-Sheet
Look in the 'Mixing' section. Your MC161 is mixed with either the MH168 or MH169 at a ratio of 2:1 (2 parts MC161 to 1 part of either MH168 or MH169).
The MH products are your hardener. They are what make the MC cure.
MH167 is a fast cure
MH168 is a slow cure
MH169 is a very slow cure
That information is found in the 'MH161 High solids Urethane Clear' section.
The hardener you pick depends on the temp and your working speed plus whether or not you are doing a overall or panel. It's actually a judgement call on your part.
Normally, I use a fast cure during cool conditions and a slower cure during hot conditions.
Here is the p-sheet for your MC161 (#8 on your list) :
P-Sheet
Look in the 'Mixing' section. Your MC161 is mixed with either the MH168 or MH169 at a ratio of 2:1 (2 parts MC161 to 1 part of either MH168 or MH169).
The MH products are your hardener. They are what make the MC cure.
MH167 is a fast cure
MH168 is a slow cure
MH169 is a very slow cure
That information is found in the 'MH161 High solids Urethane Clear' section.
The hardener you pick depends on the temp and your working speed plus whether or not you are doing a overall or panel. It's actually a judgement call on your part.
Normally, I use a fast cure during cool conditions and a slower cure during hot conditions.
#17
Originally Posted by Icicle
any other last minute tips? Im concerned this will be hard in my garage, but it will have to do, I also bought 2 high quality (or so they seem) respirators at harbor freight tools (I suppose upon reflection thats an oxymoron, nothing at HFT is high quality LOL) Im also concerned about temperature in garage when doing this, its been in the 50's here, is that too cold, should I find an acceptable way to heat it first?
IMO 55 degrees is a minumum while you're painting. In cold weather I always heat the garage up good (to 75 or 80 degrees) then shut the heat off while painting. (just about any type of heat system will blow dust around). Unless it's really cold and/or your garage is poorly insulated, it shouldn't fall below 55 untill a half hour or so after you're done. Unless your exhaust fan pulls it out. You may have to turn it on and off periodically if it's cold.
When painting after the heat is shut off, the bottom of the vehicle will cool down much faster than the higher parts. More likely to get runs down there.
In cold weather, static electricity builds up in a car body, and has no way to escape since the vehicle sits on rubber tires. It will draw dust into a paint job like a magnet. To prevent this, GROUND the body with a wire or chain or something - attach it to a water pipe or anything metal in the garage that is grounded.
When heating the garage, make sure open flames are out before you start shooting, especially close to the floor. (explosion hazard)
#18
Bump.....
Thank you guys so much for your advice through the past two years, after re-reading this thread 7 months after I last posted in it I have some pics to update you guys with.....
so far Im up to epoxy primer being applied... this thread in the NW forum has pictures, tomorrow is regular primer and sanding day, that thread will be updated with pics throughout the process....
Thanks again for all the help with this guys......
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=406625
Thank you guys so much for your advice through the past two years, after re-reading this thread 7 months after I last posted in it I have some pics to update you guys with.....
so far Im up to epoxy primer being applied... this thread in the NW forum has pictures, tomorrow is regular primer and sanding day, that thread will be updated with pics throughout the process....
Thanks again for all the help with this guys......
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=406625
#19
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