adding drain plug
?
#2
03-17-2004, 10:38 AM
Postmaster
Don't know your model so i can only generalize.
1st, if possible put the plug where it won't catch on things like rocks of large obstructions in the road, speed bumps, parking curbs etc. Don't want to yank the plug out at the wrong time.
Some drain pans have a dimple already in them where it looks like a drain plug should be. Often the donut magnet is around that dimple. If you have one of these dimples it might be the right spot for a plug.
Drop the pan and compare the inside of the pan against the valve body and any mechanical components that may be moving around in the pan. Pick a spot that looks like nothing will be moving around or interfering with the drain plug. Use a center punch to mark the hole and start the hole small and work you way up to the correct size for the plug. Deburr the hole and smooth all around it, make sure the surface is flat and smooth.
Depending on the plug, you will either weld, braze or screw in the plug set. I have B&M drain plugs on two of my vehicles. Only caution with the B&M plug is that they use a pretty soft plastic washer so the plug doesn't like a lot of torque on installation. I would probably recommend some sealer on the washer and pan surface.
Depending on whether you have a pan gasket or not, you may need either gasket sealer or form a gasket type sealer. I do not like cheap cork gaskets, they split too easy. The rubber ones squirm and sometimes popo out under torque pressure. I prefer a good composite, kind of like black cardboard, and use a sealer too. Form a gaskets are OK but everything must be totally clean and grease free and follow directions exactly.
A plug is just a convenience. You must still drop the pan periodically to check for debris and change the filter. The plug just makes the job less messy. Also the plug might encourage you to change more often and maybe skipping filter and pan drops every other time or so, but I would do them anytime I changed fluid.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
1st, if possible put the plug where it won't catch on things like rocks of large obstructions in the road, speed bumps, parking curbs etc. Don't want to yank the plug out at the wrong time.
Some drain pans have a dimple already in them where it looks like a drain plug should be. Often the donut magnet is around that dimple. If you have one of these dimples it might be the right spot for a plug.
Drop the pan and compare the inside of the pan against the valve body and any mechanical components that may be moving around in the pan. Pick a spot that looks like nothing will be moving around or interfering with the drain plug. Use a center punch to mark the hole and start the hole small and work you way up to the correct size for the plug. Deburr the hole and smooth all around it, make sure the surface is flat and smooth.
Depending on the plug, you will either weld, braze or screw in the plug set. I have B&M drain plugs on two of my vehicles. Only caution with the B&M plug is that they use a pretty soft plastic washer so the plug doesn't like a lot of torque on installation. I would probably recommend some sealer on the washer and pan surface.
Depending on whether you have a pan gasket or not, you may need either gasket sealer or form a gasket type sealer. I do not like cheap cork gaskets, they split too easy. The rubber ones squirm and sometimes popo out under torque pressure. I prefer a good composite, kind of like black cardboard, and use a sealer too. Form a gaskets are OK but everything must be totally clean and grease free and follow directions exactly.
A plug is just a convenience. You must still drop the pan periodically to check for debris and change the filter. The plug just makes the job less messy. Also the plug might encourage you to change more often and maybe skipping filter and pan drops every other time or so, but I would do them anytime I changed fluid.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Thank's Jim;all great advice.