These are the two brands I have narrowed it down to. Here is why I think I need full syn. The engine hardly ever gets warmed up as my daily commute is like 1 mile. I do a lot of start up and then full throttle with the only time to warm up being between park and drive.(Volunteer firefighter) Then anytime the engine is ran for a long time, the bed is usually full or I'm towing something. So what do you all think Mobil 1 or Valvoline 5w30 full syn? Motorcraft filter of course.

Mike

 

I am no oil expert yadda yadda...

I think your problem would be more of a condensation issue and that you need to change oil more frequently than usual. Your short trips don't let the oil warm up to "burn off" the water etc that condenses in the oil.

Since you should change oil quite often, a syn may be a waste since it's strengths are for extended drains, and high temperatures or heavy loads.

Doesn't sound like temps or extended drain is what you are after. Don't have enough info about what would be a heavy load in your opinion. Are you towing more than say 3,000# and how much weight is in the bed?

But synthetic would work fine in your truck. Either brand is one I like. I use M1 in my "good" cars since 1980. I use Valvoline syn in my 94 F250 460 since I always liked Valvoline from the 70s and wanted to try Valvoline if they came out with syn. Both have given me good performance, at least as much as you can tell by eyeballing the dirty oil etc. I run the M1 for 7,500 miles in my daily commuter which sees 80% freeway speed for 30 minutes twice a day. The Valvoline sees desert heat and freezing cold while towing a 8,000# trailer up nasty hills. I change every 5,000 on the truck.

Like I said syn will work fine, I like both, but since you probably should change oil often(less than 3,000 I think) then dino might be a reasonable option.

I have read the Mobil and Valvoline websites and they don't comeout and specify that they use pure PAOs or esters which is "real" syn versus they say they use a combination of PAOs or esters and non-conventional, high-performance fluids(code words I think for hydro processed dino). The hydro cracked dino is excellent but not considered to be true syn by true believers. Probably really angels dancing on the head of a pin, but since it is cheaper to make the hydro syn I expect the price to be reflected, but it usually isn't.

So dino or syn will work excellent for you but your real issue is frequent changes are probably required.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

I wouldn't suggest a synthetic for your application at all. Synthetics use a large additive package and this additive package can be unstable in the high condensation environment that you will have. It has a tendency to hydrolize the zinc additives which in turn makes hydrogen sulfate which in a combustion chamber produces sulphuric acid. That is the short version. It will also contribute to sludging and yes synthetics can sludge, just ask a 3.0 V6 Toyota owner. I would suggest using Wal-marts dino oil with their brand filter and change the oil every 3 months. We see many engines at 200,000+ miles on Wal-marts oils- it ain't junk. Factually, it is much better than the premium oils of the 90's.

Jim, I know you are a Mobil fan. The new Delvac 1, SUV, and R oils are a Gp IV at about 75% and they are combining it with the even newer and incredibly great Gp V that Mobil/Exxon has been testing for awhile. No mineral binders are needed.It is the first oil that I can say is stronger than Amsoil anyday and comes from a reputable company. First indications are LOW wear metals, ultra-stable, LOW thermal pump rates, and good for 10,000 miles without breaking a sweat. They will be raising the bar in the world of engine oils with their new product line far above anything else on the market. Finally, a synthetic that even I like.

 

Really my towing is between 3000 and 6000lbs. Usually at the lighter end and usually I don't tow a whole heck of a lot. If what you all say is true(which I'm not doubting you BTW) then I think Motorcraft 5w30 is for me. Probably with a change every 3 months because I only put like 6-7K on my truck a year. Heck, I've had it a month and only put 431 miles on it. The only thing that I was really worried about was the drive to the firehouse. I want an oil that gets up to the cams really quick. Thanks all.

Mike

 

The new Delvacs and Rotellas and a few other oils are becoming mighty tempting. Since Mobil may be(or already is) going the hydro syn route, I am less inclined to stick to the "Pure Syn" religion.

I am somewhat against the rarer (Amsoil, Royal Purple, blue hoozitz) "pure syns" since they are hard to find and very expensive. Mobil 1 and Valvoline syn are in the price range and easy to find comfort zone for me. But with the new dino based oils becoming easier to find and about half the price and with excellent, near syn characteristics, I am swaying to the dark side.

The hydro processed dinos are very very good and claimed to be virtually as good as "real syn" So one of these days...

Jim Henderson

 

I just may keep the Pennzoil in my Ranger. Good enough isn't it?

 

Mike, how about this suggestion? Use a quart of clean, crisp, Mobil 1 5w30, and the rest with Mobil's "Drive Clean" dino oil. This way, you get a good benefit of Mobil 1 in the system, yet it is not as costly as a full crankcase of Mobil 1. Change at around 4,000 miles, with your type of driving, and yes, of course, a Motorcraft oil filter every time. ED

 

Actually, I went out and bought a case of Motorcraft 5w30 today. 19 bucks for a case of twelve. With the oil filter and fuel filter $31. Can't beat that. The HTHS, flash point, and pour points look good. Plus the MC oil is hydrocracked, which is what I see a lot of syn oils doing anyway. That and I usually get the itch to change it at about 2000 miles anyway. That's about 3-4 months of driving for me.

Mike

 

Ed, I have been following that advice for years. Figuring if I something should happen I have the full addive package for about 20% of my oil.

 

Flash,
Are you talking about the new Mobil 1 5w-40 SUV oil? Wouldn't the visc. be a little too much for a 5w-20 application?

 

well, i think M1 is a better product, the valvoline is just a hydrocarbon cut oil, basicly rerefined dino oil, as where the M1 is a PAO base.

 

If you want valvoline, go to napa and get their synthetic, a dollar cheap a quart, same stuff, different bottle.