I HAVE A 1999 FORD F150 4X4 WITH 4.6 TRITON V8. THIS MORNING WHILE I WAS DRIVEING I STARTED GETING A MISS WHEN I STARTED TO ACCELARATE. THE TRUCK RAN FINE TO THE GAS STATION BUT ABOUT FIVE MILES DOWN THE ROAD WAS WHEN IT STARTED ACTING UP. I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLMS WITH THE GAS BEFOR. THE TRUCK SEEMED TO VIBRATE AND WOULD STOP VIBRATEING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS. I WENT THROUGH SOME STANDING WATER BUT THAT HAS NEVER CAUSED ANY PROBLEMS BEFOR. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

 

I just had this same problem with my 99/4.6 truck except it was doing it real bad. Turns out that I had a cylinder misfiring. Take it to an Autozone and have them hook it up to the OBD computer (free) and get the engine code. If its not spark plugs then you may need to have your tranny fluid flushed. I changed the plugs and no more problems. Got the tranny fuid flushed too as I have 65,000 miles on mine.

 

I too have had this happen on my work truck, F150 4.6 triton. It ended up being a coil burned up. I had two more go bad as I approached the 100,000 interval. Had new plugs put on, replaced the coils on the 3 bad ones and runs like a champ. The tech told me plugs wore out, cylinder coil misfires and arcs out side th boot and grounds out, thus messing up the coil. With all new plugs he said the remaining coils should be okay. Now have 143,000 on the truck, hope this helps. Later.


Oh and I use the truck for surveying, it gets real wet under the hood as well as muddy, I don't think that would be a serious issue. It never was for me anyway.

 

Funny how these topics come up. I have a "00" F-150 with the 4.6L Triton V-8. On my way home from work today my baby started to run rough also. Just like a mis-firing cyl. By the time I got to my driveway, my "Service Engine Soon" light was on. The truck shook bad upon any exceleration and idled a bit rough but other than that, No other problems noticed. I continued on to my local dealership and they took it right in and did a scan. One of the plug top coils "POPed". The part is about $100.00. The dealership isn't going to charge me labor because I told them to change the plugs while they are there. This also saved me a diognostic charge. (Q. Why would they ever put a coil on EACH plug? What ever happened to plug wires?)

As for the drive home. It has been raining heavily, snowing a lot and as if that weren't enough, there is standing/ponding water all over the roads. I figured it was a wet condition. No, it was a plug coil.

As 78Bigguns said. Change the plugs and check the coil's.

Hey 78, Thank you for that last statement on your reply above. It is rare that we ever get any thanks @ all. look below.

"Only those who have sacrificed for our freedom will ever truly know what the sweet taste of freedom is and means. The rest just live in freedom and never know the true cost" ! (ELT 2004)
USMC "80-85" " Beruit, Granada"

 

I got my baby back yesterday. After $312.00, That cost included NEW plugs, -1- new COP, labor, cutting and programming of a new PAS Key. I immediately noticed that I had more power. (Must be the new plugs) The Dealership advised me that the 100,000 mile plugs are bull*****. They told me to NOT waist the money on platnium plugs, Go with copper and change them every 30,000 miles.

They also said that by doing this, I will most probably save my COP's due to NOT allowing the plugs to short out hence poping the COP's.

Get yourself some new plugs and carry a spare COP. you can get them (The COP's) @ any NAPA store. I advise against ANY electrical parts from places like Autozone or Advanced Auto though, Their electrical parts don't seem to be worth there weight in pennies.

 

update on 99 ford f150. first of all thanks to everyone for your replies. just went out and started the truck and check engine light stayed on. definetly going to auto zone to get a computer read out. question, what is a cops?? going to have to get me a repair manual too.thanks again for all the info.

 

"COPS" = "Coil Over Plug". Since you have NO plug wires, you have no Cap and Rotor. Tada, You now have a Coil on each plug. They aren't hard to change, just be careful is all.

Good luck guy!

 

IMHO #4 is a real pain. If you haven't changed COPS/plugs before you might want to check out this thread for some helpful tips ...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/framered...parkplugs.html

 

The best thing to do if your going to work on your own engine, is to have the lay down ladder. If you've been to a ford® garage or any garage for that matter, These things are great. you climb a couple steps, then kneel and lay, You are postioned right over the motor and your not reaching like a one armed man trying to swim holding a cigar out of the water.

I actually made my own. Of course, I made my own Nerf bars also. Alluminum is a wonderful metal. :-)

They can be purchesed through MAC Tools® or Snap-On Tools® but you'll pay big.

 

gkbid,

Good info there, I read the thread and it is dead on.

Thanks