Just wanted to post a NAPA part number for the axle seal that actually is pressed into the hub on my full floater. If you have a FORD (not dana) 1-ton rear axle and have gear oil dripping down the inside of the wheel, you need PN 34386 for $25. Worked great on my truck. Old seal was shot! You need a special spindle socket to take the hub off by the way.

Ed

 

Most interesting. I'm taking my truck in tomorrow to have it looked at, there's an active leak that drips down the inside of the rear wheel. It's like you said in the other thread, you have to pull out the axles to get to the rear brakes. I think I found a sharp mechanic, which is quite a relief because I don't want to do this stuff myself. I'm old and lazy, and anyway these dern diesel parts are frikken heavy!

 

I have a 92 f350 4x4, with a floating axle. How can I tell if it is a dana or ford? I have fluid leaking down my brakes bad, and I have a buddy with the tool to help me get that hub nut off. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kyle

 

EDinMaine, I was trying to change my rear axle seal, but couldn't get the hub off (I think that is what it is called). I took the axle out, and the tire off, but couldn't get the hub off? We loosened the adjuster on the brakes, and banged on it with a hammer, but still couldn't get it to budge. Any suggestions that you have for me to change my rear axle seal? Thanks, Kyle

 

You don't have a Dana 80 rear. I know that all the F250/350 trucks including the dually used to use the Sterling 10.25" on the rear. I'm not sure how far back that extends, but it is from 1997 back.

 

thanks, Kyle

 

One other thing to add. When you are using the spindle nut wrench, keep in mind that the drivers side is right hand threaded where as the passenger's side is left hand threaded. At least it is this way on my '90 Sterling 10.25 axle.

 

You're right. I recently changed my rear bearings and seals.