Is it a bad air charge temperature sensor?
#1
Is it a bad air charge temperature sensor?
I have a '95 aerostar. When starting with a cold engine, it looses power and nearly stalls when pressing the gas. It only does this for a short time and then is ok. If I notice and let my foot off the gas it does not stall. Is this due to a bad air charge temperature sensor? How do I test? Any more details? If not, do you have any ideas?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
#4
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to pull the codes (koeo). I jumpered the input and pin 2 as mentioned in my Haynes book and then watched my check engine light flash. However, something doesnt jive. Keeping in mind, 0.4 sec between sweeps, 2 sec between digits and 4 sec between codes, I come up with 33 and 133 as the codes. I know this doesn't makes sense since the codes are 3 digits and 133 isnt even a valid code. But that is what I get! Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.
Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.
Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.
Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.
Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
#5
Originally posted by cdegruch
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to pull the codes (koeo). I jumpered the input and pin 2 as mentioned in my Haynes book and then watched my check engine light flash. However, something doesnt jive. Keeping in mind, 0.4 sec between sweeps, 2 sec between digits and 4 sec between codes, I come up with 33 and 133 as the codes. I know this doesn't makes sense since the codes are 3 digits and 133 isnt even a valid code. But that is what I get! Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.
Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.
Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to pull the codes (koeo). I jumpered the input and pin 2 as mentioned in my Haynes book and then watched my check engine light flash. However, something doesnt jive. Keeping in mind, 0.4 sec between sweeps, 2 sec between digits and 4 sec between codes, I come up with 33 and 133 as the codes. I know this doesn't makes sense since the codes are 3 digits and 133 isnt even a valid code. But that is what I get! Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.
Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.
Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
#6
I think it is code 33 twice. The one blink is the separator pulse between the current codes and memory codes. 33 is EGR valve opening not detected. Get a Haynes manual and go through the EGR system checks to pinpoint the problem. The egr valve may possibly be stuck open as well which would cause you to have to give it gas to keep it running at idle. Is it a very rough idle?
#7
I have a '95 aerostar. When starting with a cold engine, it looses power and nearly stalls when pressing the gas. It only does this for a short time and then is ok. If I notice and let my foot off the gas it does not stall. Is this due to a bad air charge temperature sensor? How do I test? Any more details? If not, do you have any ideas?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mikes '66
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
2
01-09-2017 08:47 PM
TheRed
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
6
09-08-2014 06:15 AM
Frdtrckfn
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
02-19-2014 07:13 PM
mx495
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
12-17-2004 08:58 AM