Is it a bad air charge temperature sensor?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-08-2004, 08:25 PM
cdegruch's Avatar
cdegruch
cdegruch is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Is it a bad air charge temperature sensor?

I have a '95 aerostar. When starting with a cold engine, it looses power and nearly stalls when pressing the gas. It only does this for a short time and then is ok. If I notice and let my foot off the gas it does not stall. Is this due to a bad air charge temperature sensor? How do I test? Any more details? If not, do you have any ideas?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 01-08-2004, 08:54 PM
EPNCSU2006's Avatar
EPNCSU2006
EPNCSU2006 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 9,531
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 22 Posts
Have you pulled the codes? Air temp sensors rarely go bad, but wiring and connections do. Check resistance in the sensor and compare to a table of values and temps in a haynes or chilton manual.
 
  #3  
Old 01-08-2004, 11:31 PM
LxMan1's Avatar
LxMan1
LxMan1 is offline
Moderator

Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,Ky.
Posts: 22,436
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
Clean the mass-air sensor. If it is dirty, it will not correctly measure airflow and will lean out the mixture. It will be more noticable when cold.
Jimmy
 
  #4  
Old 01-11-2004, 08:33 PM
cdegruch's Avatar
cdegruch
cdegruch is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to pull the codes (koeo). I jumpered the input and pin 2 as mentioned in my Haynes book and then watched my check engine light flash. However, something doesnt jive. Keeping in mind, 0.4 sec between sweeps, 2 sec between digits and 4 sec between codes, I come up with 33 and 133 as the codes. I know this doesn't makes sense since the codes are 3 digits and 133 isnt even a valid code. But that is what I get! Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.

Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.

Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
 
  #5  
Old 01-27-2004, 01:29 PM
fordtruckfan90's Avatar
fordtruckfan90
fordtruckfan90 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St.Paul, MN
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by cdegruch
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to pull the codes (koeo). I jumpered the input and pin 2 as mentioned in my Haynes book and then watched my check engine light flash. However, something doesnt jive. Keeping in mind, 0.4 sec between sweeps, 2 sec between digits and 4 sec between codes, I come up with 33 and 133 as the codes. I know this doesn't makes sense since the codes are 3 digits and 133 isnt even a valid code. But that is what I get! Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
I then waited for the 6-9 sec delay for the continuous codes, but there was none. I video taped this if anyone has experience and would like to help me out.

Also, I checked the MAF sensor, located on my air cleaner housing, and it was very clean. Not sure what to do next. I still have to test the resistance of the ACT. Did notice that the effect is much worse with cold (but slight warmer and more moisture) air around 0 celcius.

Any thoughts on these codes would be most welcome.
Thanks!
hey, i have a code reader, and i referred to my manual, code 33 is and egr fault codefor cars(not opening properly), for trucks(EGR valve fault/not closing properly). I hope this helps!
 
  #6  
Old 01-27-2004, 02:53 PM
EPNCSU2006's Avatar
EPNCSU2006
EPNCSU2006 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 9,531
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 22 Posts
I think it is code 33 twice. The one blink is the separator pulse between the current codes and memory codes. 33 is EGR valve opening not detected. Get a Haynes manual and go through the EGR system checks to pinpoint the problem. The egr valve may possibly be stuck open as well which would cause you to have to give it gas to keep it running at idle. Is it a very rough idle?
 
  #7  
Old 01-09-2017, 08:44 PM
vjsimone's Avatar
vjsimone
vjsimone is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somewhere n North America
Posts: 3,168
Received 11 Likes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by cdegruch
I have a '95 aerostar. When starting with a cold engine, it looses power and nearly stalls when pressing the gas. It only does this for a short time and then is ok. If I notice and let my foot off the gas it does not stall. Is this due to a bad air charge temperature sensor? How do I test? Any more details? If not, do you have any ideas?

Thanks!
Did you get this fixed...?
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mikes '66
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
2
01-09-2017 08:47 PM
airman312
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
2
05-31-2015 07:36 AM
TheRed
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
6
09-08-2014 06:15 AM
Frdtrckfn
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
02-19-2014 07:13 PM
mx495
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
12-17-2004 08:58 AM



Quick Reply: Is it a bad air charge temperature sensor?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:46 AM.