NooB to painting (warning, long post with questions)
#1
12-10-2003, 06:15 PM
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Conyers
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NooB to painting (warning, long post with questions)
My truck is in desperate need of a paint job,
hood, front fenders, and a tailgate. Since I don't have a place to get the whole truck inside and to seal off, I figured that I'd be able to paint the sheetmetal piece by piece. Since I'll already have the fenders, tailgate, and hood off, I figured it would be easiest to seal up the garage with a ventilator system paint them while they are off. And since I have no place to get the whole truck, and I need to finish painting the frame, I figure that I could pull off the bed and kill two birds with one stone. I figure a coouple of sawhorses would suffice to holding them in place while I shoot them. For the cab, I could take it off, as it doesn't look too hard. How do ya'll painting gurus feel about painting a truck piece by piece? I was thinking of maybe going with the stock 2tone red/silver w/clearcoat paintjob, but I saw a deep metallic red that looked so sweet the other day. How hard is it to shoot these colors and make it look pretty good? I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to strip the fenders and stuff (if I find some decent J/Y ones) down to the bare metal. Good idea or not? Also what would be a good yet easy way to strip them that doesn't cost very much? Sandblasting? Chemical? Or just plain 'ole elbow grease and sandpaper? Thank you all for reading this post! 
hood, front fenders, and a tailgate. Since I don't have a place to get the whole truck inside and to seal off, I figured that I'd be able to paint the sheetmetal piece by piece. Since I'll already have the fenders, tailgate, and hood off, I figured it would be easiest to seal up the garage with a ventilator system paint them while they are off. And since I have no place to get the whole truck, and I need to finish painting the frame, I figure that I could pull off the bed and kill two birds with one stone. I figure a coouple of sawhorses would suffice to holding them in place while I shoot them. For the cab, I could take it off, as it doesn't look too hard. How do ya'll painting gurus feel about painting a truck piece by piece? I was thinking of maybe going with the stock 2tone red/silver w/clearcoat paintjob, but I saw a deep metallic red that looked so sweet the other day. How hard is it to shoot these colors and make it look pretty good? I'm thinking the best thing to do would be to strip the fenders and stuff (if I find some decent J/Y ones) down to the bare metal. Good idea or not? Also what would be a good yet easy way to strip them that doesn't cost very much? Sandblasting? Chemical? Or just plain 'ole elbow grease and sandpaper? Thank you all for reading this post!
#2
12-10-2003, 07:10 PM
<cr>
As far as painting skill goes, a metallic falls between a solid and a tri-coat pearl. A newbie can do it but buy next paint because you are going to need it. Metallics are real picky when applied and it's easy to end up with a mottling affect. Expect to do some repainting during the learning process. By the way, you may have heard you can't paint metallics piece by piece. Personally, I've never found it an issue as long you paint it in the position it will be hanging (i.e. paint a door standing up, not laying down).
Good choice on planning a basecoat/clearcoat paint job. It is the easiest for a newbie. Just about anyone can lay down basecoat. Then if you get a run in the clearcoat, you just sand it.
If you are hand sanding the entire rig to bare metal, an educated guess is that you'll never complete the project. I'm not saying it couldn't be done. I'm just saying it'll probably never be finished.
If the guy doesn't know what he is doing, sandblasting can cause warped metal. And, you might find you could buy a good air compressor for the price of having it sandblasted.
I don't like chemical stripping. The stuff can get in cracks and cause future problems with your new paint. In your case though, since you are doing piece work, it might be okay. Just make sure all the chemical is removed.
Welcome to the forum. There is lots of experience here and everyone is willing to help out. You can do your own paint job. Have at it.
As far as painting skill goes, a metallic falls between a solid and a tri-coat pearl. A newbie can do it but buy next paint because you are going to need it. Metallics are real picky when applied and it's easy to end up with a mottling affect. Expect to do some repainting during the learning process. By the way, you may have heard you can't paint metallics piece by piece. Personally, I've never found it an issue as long you paint it in the position it will be hanging (i.e. paint a door standing up, not laying down).
Good choice on planning a basecoat/clearcoat paint job. It is the easiest for a newbie. Just about anyone can lay down basecoat. Then if you get a run in the clearcoat, you just sand it.
If you are hand sanding the entire rig to bare metal, an educated guess is that you'll never complete the project. I'm not saying it couldn't be done. I'm just saying it'll probably never be finished.
If the guy doesn't know what he is doing, sandblasting can cause warped metal. And, you might find you could buy a good air compressor for the price of having it sandblasted.
I don't like chemical stripping. The stuff can get in cracks and cause future problems with your new paint. In your case though, since you are doing piece work, it might be okay. Just make sure all the chemical is removed.
Welcome to the forum. There is lots of experience here and everyone is willing to help out. You can do your own paint job. Have at it.
#3
12-11-2003, 10:05 PM
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Conyers
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
12-12-2003, 03:44 AM
<cr>
I use 32 grit on a DA (dual action) palm sander. After the majority of the paint is stripped, I do a final sanding with 80 grit. If you do the same, just remember that if you are seeing sparks, you are removing metal. That's not what you want to be doing. You want to be removing paint, not grinding metal.
I plan on 8-12 hours to strip a vehicle.
Once the paint is removed, I treat with a rust converter and then spray on DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer.
Instead of using epoxy, some people prefer a self-etch primer. I've done the same in the past but I find the epoxy works better for sealing out water and sealing in micro-rust. By the way, if you decide to use the self-etch, you should not use the rust converter.
I use 32 grit on a DA (dual action) palm sander. After the majority of the paint is stripped, I do a final sanding with 80 grit. If you do the same, just remember that if you are seeing sparks, you are removing metal. That's not what you want to be doing. You want to be removing paint, not grinding metal.
I plan on 8-12 hours to strip a vehicle.
Once the paint is removed, I treat with a rust converter and then spray on DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer.
Instead of using epoxy, some people prefer a self-etch primer. I've done the same in the past but I find the epoxy works better for sealing out water and sealing in micro-rust. By the way, if you decide to use the self-etch, you should not use the rust converter.
#5
12-12-2003, 07:34 AM
Elder User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: texarkana, tx
Posts: 997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wildjon300ci & Aekisu~
Looks like we both will be starting our "projects" this weekend; I'm up in Rome where it might ice over this weekend. Maybe we should exchange emails to let each other know what to "watch out for"?....
I have a nekkid cab in the back yard I need to start restoring - will post pix to my site this weekend probably...under "cab restoration". Good luck with YOUR project...
Aekisu ~ thanks for your helpful tips!!.....
Looks like we both will be starting our "projects" this weekend; I'm up in Rome where it might ice over this weekend. Maybe we should exchange emails to let each other know what to "watch out for"?....
I have a nekkid cab in the back yard I need to start restoring - will post pix to my site this weekend probably...under "cab restoration". Good luck with YOUR project...
Aekisu ~ thanks for your helpful tips!!.....
#6
12-12-2003, 07:37 AM
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Conyers
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AXracer
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
12-02-2014 11:43 AM
VocaTexas
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
12-01-2012 09:12 PM