Don't forget to air check the circuits using the case ports. That way, you know that it's as good as it can be.

Looking good so far.

 

I bought an RFF5 pump to replace the original RFF1 pump based on @FORDF250HDXLT suggestion. I'm thinking it may not work. The end plugs for the valves are different sizes. I can't use the end-plug from the RFF1 pump lockup valve on the RFF5 pump stator. It's too large of diameter.

Anyone else run into this? If I don't hear back, I'll have to take the "new" pump back tomorrow and swap it for the RFF1 version to the valve end plugs will work *or* find and buy a smaller RFF5 sized end plug to use. I'm dead-in-the water until I get this figured out. Darn.

-- Jason

 

What do you mean by end plug and why would you want to swap them between pumps? You set the old pre '95 pump aside and forget all about it.
You modify the '95+ F5, high volume pump with your tugger parts and install it in the trans. You don't try and use old parts from the old pump for anything.

 

I finished the build and re-installed the transmission today. The RF5 Pump was exchanged for the direct replacement, unfortunately. I would have finished things yesterday if it weren't for that issue. Two of the valves in the RF5 pump have different bore diameter than my original so I stuck with a direct replacement to be sure I didn't unintentionally screw something up. After adding 8 quarts of fluid, I left the cooler return line disconnected and let the truck run for a minute to flush out any old nasty burned fluid from the cooler, then connected it and added fluid etc. I test-drove it and everything is good to go! Truthfully, I believe I would have been just fine to replace only the pump but knowing I have all new frictions, steels, and all rubber components gives me piece of mind I suppose. The HD-2 tugger kit is firmer but not "Joltingly Firm" like I was sort of expecting. I'm actually glad it's not too firm. For some reason, the 3-4 shift is noticeibly firmer than the 1-2 or 2-3. With the triple disc converter, it honestly feels like a 5 or 7 speed transmission b/c I can feel the converter locking in 2, 3, and 4 unless I'm accellerating aggressively. I know people say it doesn't lock in 2 but I SWEAR to you mine does. If I'm coasting in 2 with it locked and tap the brake, the RPM's jump when it un-locks just like when on the interstate.

Anyway. THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP. Especially @FORDF250HDXLT . You were very encouraging! This forum is fortunate to have you frequenting it's space! Thank you so much! My offer to treat you to dinner, even if it's door-dash or a gift card 10000% stands. I sent you a DM/PM with my cell #. Just text me or PM/DM me your address and favorite place ot eat and I'll take care of you my new friend. Best of luck with the stupid "C". You can kick that dudes butt!

Now... I need to pull the fuel sending units and either replace the shower heads or install fuel line to extend the pickup down to the bottom of both of my tanks. My front tank has some kind of obstruction causing the "fuel filter" light to come on about 3-4 minutes after switching to it. This light goes away immediately when I switch back to the rear tank.

I'm thrilled to be done with the transmission and hope the time and dollars spent will last a LONG time to me or whomever I sell this truck to.

God Bless ya'll! Jesus is Lord and Easter is right around the corner! He is risen!

 

Some of us have all the talents to do something but are to scared to dive into it. Glad things worked out. The facts are, you did the repair, we did not. @FORDf250XLT just pushed you into the deep end of the pool to prove to you, you can do it. He tends to give good advice and knows his stuff.

I bet you were a bit nervous on your initial start up/test drive. The longer the drive, the less nervous you got. I bet there was some mile marker that the sensation changed and a smile started to form on your face. Then there was a time that you realized that you actually did it.

Great job!

 

I installed the temperature gauge just to see what was going on. These are my tips on the interstate at 65 miles an hour after driving for about an hour. Is this normal? 72 degree day. Unloaded. 65 mph cruise at 2200 rpm

 

In the same conditions on my F250/5.8/2WD, my temps are around 150-160. My coolers are much larger than stock. When I am towing and under load [ie up a long mountain pass in the summer] my temps do not go higher than 195F.

I suspect you are fine and within the stock temp ranges.

 

That should have been asked in a new thread, as it's unrelated to this one, but yes, those are good normal temps, if your sending unit is in the test port. Pretty much up to 225F is very safe. 175F is stated to be ideal, as it's warm enough to burn off any condensation (you don't want milky ATF in there) and the higher it goes, it will break down sooner, but pretty much "great" trans temps, as measured at the test port is 170F-200F to run all day long, issue free. Some guys make the mistake of running too large a cooler (without a t-stat) and not allowing their trans to get up too temp. Just like an engine, the trans has an optimal operating temp also.