Hard Start when Cold(ish)
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: KS
Hard Start when Cold(ish)
2004 6.0, 324k, I’ve had it forever and a day. Last winter started getting tougher to start, cycled glow plugs twice and it would start fine. Summer came along and no problems.
Couple weeks ago dipped to the 50’s and she didn’t want to start at all. Cranked long time, finally fired. Took it in and they said glow plugs are fine, but replaced the glow plug relay or solenoid, I don’t remember right off. Didn’t fix the issue.
Any clues, this is a new shop to me, but I don’t exactly have money for them to play whack a mole to find the problem. The claim I also got was it blows black smoke on start so it’s a fuel problem. It always smokes when it doesn't immediately fire, so that makes no sense to me, but I’m no mechanic.
Couple weeks ago dipped to the 50’s and she didn’t want to start at all. Cranked long time, finally fired. Took it in and they said glow plugs are fine, but replaced the glow plug relay or solenoid, I don’t remember right off. Didn’t fix the issue.
Any clues, this is a new shop to me, but I don’t exactly have money for them to play whack a mole to find the problem. The claim I also got was it blows black smoke on start so it’s a fuel problem. It always smokes when it doesn't immediately fire, so that makes no sense to me, but I’m no mechanic.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 2,362
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From: Chambersburg, PA
FICM could definitely cause a cold, long crank/ no-start. I had one do that several years ago. It would only start normally if I plugged in the block heater. This was before I had any diagnostic capability so I had my local Ford dealer diagnose it and replace it.
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More Turbo
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From: KS
I haven’t a clue if there was or not. I don’t have capacity in house to pull codes.
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More Turbo
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From: KS
I did have a FICM take a dump just after it was bullet proofed in 2015, it’s not acting the same as when that happened. Not that it’d be the same every time. But when it did tjat, it was also difficult to start hot or cold.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Every 6.0L needs a good scan tool. Software on a smart device is cheap. An OBDII adapter can be had for $150 or less. A lot cheaper than a typical visit to a shop.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: KS
Unfortunately for me this is the first time I’ve really heard that one, which is no surprise to me since I rarely find myself over on these forums unless I’m in need of something. I’ll have to see what I can do.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2021
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From: Chambersburg, PA
Starting RPM is critical. I think you need close to 150 RPM to fire injectors. There are a lot of things that can cause a crank no start and it’s difficult to track down without good data.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Software REQUIRES 100 rpm minimum before initiating the actual start commands. That said, approximately 150 rpm is required for reliable starting. This will obviously vary somewhat (from one vehicle to the next) depending on the use of glow plugs (and ambient temperatures), cylinder compression, injector performance/health (atomization), etc. Since 150 rpm is not an issue for a healthy engine, batteries, starter, etc ...................... it is a good target if/when anyone experiences a crank no-start (or even a hard start).
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