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Hey guys, I broke another throttle cable today, miles from home. Tied an old choke cable to the carb and ran it through the firewall to get home which was kind of sketch with the San diego traffic.
65 F100, 352, manual five speed. The cable hooks to the top of the pedal assembly, through the firewall where a bracket bolts to firewall, then curves up pretty sharply before being bolted to the intake manifold bracket then to the carb
this is the third throttle cable I have broken and am hoping someone has come up with a more modern design. I've read about the local in my search but haven't been impressed with thier stuff in other applications. What you got?
Locar makes kits for street rods. Pre fuel injected Crown Victoria’s have cables that should be able to adapt.
Is your body grounded good to the engine and frame ?
That's ludicrous!! Seriously though, have they all broken in the same spot? Different places? There is a way of adjusting them so even at full throttle they are not getting stretched. From the 1965 Shop Manual.
Of course, if you are not using the stock 2-barrel Autolite 2100 then this may or may not work as well.
Also, check if the amount of lead in your right foot is at spec. You may be running a bit heavy...
Small aircraft are controlled almost exclusively by cable. There are many 'mom and pop' small business that make custom cables to order, and they are tough as nails. Careful on your selection some may have a maximum bend radius for 6" or more.
Locar makes kits for street rods. Pre fuel injected Crown Victoria’s have cables that should be able to adapt.
Is your body grounded good to the engine and frame ?
Kenny, I am familiar with Locar, and havent been impressed with the quality for what they cost. Ill look into the CV cables.
I have redundant grounds on top of redundant grounds. But i understand where you were goi g with that.
That's ludicrous!! Seriously though, have they all broken in the same spot? Different places? There is a way of adjusting them so even at full throttle they are not getting stretched. From the 1965 Shop Manual.
Of course, if you are not using the stock 2-barrel Autolite 2100 then this may or may not work as well.
Also, check if the amount of lead in your right foot is at spec. You may be running a bit heavy...
TA455HO, they have all broken inside the housing, right on the fire side of the firewall it seems. The cable has to bend upwards there to clear the valve cover, then curve over to pick up the bracket. Im sure part of the problem is the carb riser and consequently the bracket spacer.
I am also sure that im guilty of runnin heavy, although I always make sure to adjust the cable to run out the same as the throttle lever.
Small aircraft are controlled almost exclusively by cable. There are many 'mom and pop' small business that make custom cables to order, and they are tough as nails. Careful on your selection some may have a maximum bend radius for 6" or more.
The thought there being the throttle cable is getting electrically torched I believe. Might be worth a check.
Yep. When I first got the truck I went crazy with a spool of braided copper strap and 12 gauge stranded. Everything is very grounded.
After I posted to the group I grabbed a beer and a flashlight and headed out to the parts cave and found a used "service replacement" throttle cable that i was crossing my fingers for, so I should be good for another year. Sprayed some graphite dry lube down the sheath before installing. Thanks!
I changed my 65 to a floating pedal and used a Lokar cable, but I have a Chinese copy for a spare. To be honest the Chinese one looks to be just as serviceable for 1/5 the price. Also, a pedal stop is a good idea with any throttle cable especially if you enjoy tire smoke as I do every now and then. Also, if you have a 4-barrel carb get a Summit cable bracket and throw the Ford bracket in the spare parts bin.
Here's Figure 36 that is referenced in the shop manual text I posted previously.
Also, here's Figure 37 which represents the 1965 F100/250 4x4, 1965/66 F350 and 1966 F250 4x4 with 352. I wish they had done the same with the 1965/66 F100/250 2WD trucks that they continued to do with the 4x4 and F350 in that it used a bracket mounted to the firewall with 3 bolts and the accelerator shaft assembly pivoted inside of the fixed bracket. The arm on the engine side stood up vertically a few inches which gave the clearance to get above the valve covers some and then they had a threaded rod from that pivoting arm to the carb.
This could possibly be adapted to the 1965/66 F100/250 2WD but the thing that's different is the shape of the firewall where this bracket has a bend in it to conform better to the cabs with the high step inside the door.