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Noticed a leak and tore down the driver side of my truck. Obviously the axel seal was leaking and removed but not sure what's going on with the wear in the bearing area. Is this a replaceable bearing g race or is the axel housing shot. Attached are photos of the damage and current bearings on the axel. What caused this? Noticed nothing abnormal except for a leak while vehicle was parked for like a week.
if I'm seeing what I think I see it looks like your bearing went and it has spun in the housing. it's not replaceable it's the housing.
I've never run into this so I can't think of any fix besides machining it for a sleeve or oversize bearing. it would probably cost more than another housing.
Well couple things,,
Just by looking at the picks,,Agree with 440 on the spun bearing.
Couple questions,
1. does that bearing spin or burn't up, frozen
2. looks like the backing plate might be beat up somewhat..
3. Safety?? is that jack stand welded good on that mating crease?? I believe some were found to not be welded correctly and can separate at the mating area when load was applied.... (seems like I remember something like that)....
Alex
I'd get a replacement bearing set and before having it swapped onto the axle, just try it by hand to see how well it does or doesn't fit into the axle housing end. As I recall, it's a good fit, but not a real tight fit, more like a "firm but not a sloppy" fit. I see what looks like it maybe moved, but if the bearing seized and spun I would expect blued & even melted metal. To me, looking at a photo, that looks like I see machine marks on the outer of the bearing race with a little smudge or scuffing where it was in contact with the housing.
You didn't say, I'm just guessing ... the seal leak was the issue?
Originally Posted by pomeroy1978
Does anyone make a complete bolt in for a 79 F100 i see them made for everything but found none for my model
"complete bolt in" what .... for what rear axle? If you mean bearing set, the ones in your picture is pressed on with a retainer behind it. Take the axle to a shop with your new bearing, they'll swap it off / on. Looks like what I'd expect on a 9" Ford rear axle.
Tbear,,,,,Dont know bout that firm,,but not sloppy,,
Don't know bout VA, but Here in Alabama pretty Tight,,,, I think that is why we use those tools called AXLE PULLERS --- LOL
Alex
Tbear,,,,,Dont know bout that firm,,but not sloppy,,
Don't know bout VA, but Here in Alabama pretty Tight,,,, I think that is why we use those tools called AXLE PULLERS --- LOL
Alex
I've tore into two 9" rears (that were under Ford PU trucks that I was making trailers from), one was a '64 SB, one was a '79 LB. Both got axle perches moved to flip to spring top to lower the trailer deck. Removed all but backing plates too. I removed ring gear in one, but just removed the pinion in the other and welded a plate over the holes left in both pinion carriers. I didn't use a puller, but I did work the axle in-out using it like it was a slide hammer, but they came out. Took awhile maybe, hence "firm but not sloppy" where as "pretty Tight" would be a whole different level in my mind.
I now wonder ... if it takes a puller to pull one (axle with bearing) out of the housing ... what would one then need to use to insert one (axle with bearing) into the housing?
Double checked last night and the sealed bearing is not burnt and spins freely. Had a buddy of mine look at it and he says he has seen them look like that multiple times due to the machining process from the factory. Gonna clean everything up swap the oil seal and put it all back together. The only reason I tore it down was because it developed that leak. When i asked about a bolt it setup i was reffering to a copmplete rear end with all the mounts and perches in place. I dont have the facilities to cut weld and move mounts in my home garage. Hopefully can change this seal and all is good to go.
I've tore into two 9" rears (that were under Ford PU trucks that I was making trailers from), one was a '64 SB, one was a '79 LB. Both got axle perches moved to flip to spring top to lower the trailer deck. Removed all but backing plates too. I removed ring gear in one, but just removed the pinion in the other and welded a plate over the holes left in both pinion carriers. I didn't use a puller, but I did work the axle in-out using it like it was a slide hammer, but they came out. Took awhile maybe, hence "firm but not sloppy" where as "pretty Tight" would be a whole different level in my mind.
I now wonder ... if it takes a puller to pull one (axle with bearing) out of the housing ... what would one then need to use to insert one (axle with bearing) into the housing? 
