I have a 98 F150 with 4.2 (97K miles) that developed a severe case of noisy lifters. Went to Ford where I was told I needed new lifters, so I bought new lifters and just changed all 12.
Started motor and low and ef'in behold , still same noise.
I have and had plenty of oil pressure, so I am clueless what the problem could still be.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please post here or email me.

Thx, Rob

 

do u have oil in your truck

 

Not enough information to tell you much. How did you or "Ford" determine the noise was lifters? When did the noise start? Were the old lifters worn concave or stuck? How did you rule out your accessories? How long has it been since you changed your oil and filter? What grade of oil did you use? Are you sure? Did you preload the lifters when you changed them? How much preload did you measure? Did you prelube? Did oil flow on all the rockers if you did? You say you have plenty of oil pressure. How much is plenty? Does pressure come up fast and stay good even at idle? With what's in your note, all that can be said is it's probably not your lifters--maybe.

 

First let me thank you for the reply.....

How did you or "Ford" determine the noise was lifters?
-Two mechanics and a Ford heavy duty line tech all said lifters.

When did the noise start?
-Noise started 5,000 miles ago around 92K

Were the old lifters worn concave or stuck?
-They actually looked good.

How did you rule out your accessories?
-Never had a clue accessories could sound like lifter noise.

How long has it been since you changed your oil and filter?
-Changed every 3K with filter.
-Changed 3 time with filter in last 100 miles.

What grade of oil did you use? Are you sure?
-10w40 Havoline witha Purolator filter.

Did you preload the lifters when you changed them? How much preload did you measure? Did you prelube?
Did oil flow on all the rockers if you did?
-Not too sure about these.

You say you have plenty of oil pressure. How much is plenty? Does pressure come up fast and stay good even at idle?
-2/3 of the way up on gauge and instantly on start up and stays up even when warm.

With what's in your note, all that can be said is it's probably not your lifters--maybe.

 

Noise does some very odd things. It travels faster through metal than air and can sound like it is coming from somewhere well away from the source on a car or truck. I'd pull the belt off and start it to rule out the accessories. (Very briefly of course) Hope that it is your smog pump or something cheap and easy to replace. Next I'd pull the valve cover/s and confirm that none of the rockers are loose and there is nothing "bouncing around" under the valve cover. I'm not sure of the steps to prime the oil on a 4.2--but that is what you need to do to confirm oil is flowing through all of your lifters. Finally, I'd check lifter preload. I hope it is something simple for your sake. Remember when you could pull valve covers just by removing six bolts? I'd have to take my upper intake off to get the passenger side valve cover off now...

Good Luck!

 

From what I understand, the 'gauge' is actually faked by a resistor on the back of the gauge printed circuit. Use a mechanical gauge, and you will be surprised to find that your 'instant' oil pressure is actually not what you think. The sending unit will be real small if it is the 'fake'. Check elsewhere on the board for more info.. it's there.
Preload is adjusting the rocker arm to get the piston inside the lifter 'half-way' down its' travel. The manual will tell how to check. Some lifters are just tighen to XX ft-lbs... but, if you have worn parts, you may be on the loose side of the tolerance.. and have clack. You must bleed the lifter down, measure the valve clearance, and check the book to see if you need longer or shorter than standard push rods to get your lifter correct. This is just skimming the surface...

tom

 

so they must have been sticking or dirty? i would also check clearances on the rockers and pushrods and see if there is wear, also that a pushrod isnt clogged....just another idea...

 

Toaster, when you put new lifters on an old cam, you have to break them in just like you would a new cam. This means 1500-2000rpm, slowly varying, for 30 minutes. If you just put 'em in and drive it, you'll probably get one concave like was mentioned.

It is normal for new unprimed lifters to clatter for about 5 minutes until they pump up, if they're broke in correctly as was described.

Of course if they're roller lifters in the 4.2, then you dont have to break 'em in. Just drop 'em in and run 1500-2000rpm until the clicking stops, or prime them before you put 'em in.

To prime new lifters, you place the entire lifter in a can of oil, take an old pushrod, and press down on the lifter repeatedly until it holds pressure.

Edit: Make sure you have something soft under the lifter when you prime it so you dont damage the surface or the roller!

Good luck!

 

Havoline oil could be part of the problem. It may have changed over the years but it was a fairly mediocre oil. If your valve train has a lot of wear in it new lifters alone will not take care of the problem.

 

Short story; If your truck has one, replace the stock oil cooler-the temperature bypass valve maybe sticky or something. Be sure to use the best oil filtration you can. (it seems that's a moving target though)

Longer story.
I have an '88 250 w/460 +140K. Had noisey lifters at various times. If the oil wasn't "FULL" on the 'stick, they'd clack when I was pulling up hill, like the pump was suckin' air. Very strange. That all went away when I changed oil filter brands.

Was using FRAM PH8A and changed to the MOBIL1 filter. That was the only change. It maybe wasn't the fix though, just a work-around.

Over the last few 2 years, the noisey lifters started slowly coming back in my 250 though. When it started getting worse, I began to understand that the pressure was good when cold but lower when at operating temperature.

As a test to prove my notion, I bypassed the stock oil cooler and all of my "oil" problems went away. Thankfully I haven't needed to rely on this truck, so it's OK that this has persisted for "so long".

My next project is to install a new oil cooler.

I hope this helps instead of creating more background noise.

PS. A motion and second; The issue of breaking in the "new" lifters is important. Worth pulling them out to check if there's any question.

 

I will be trying most of the suggestions given above and let you know the results. Thank you, Rob

 

sometimes a spun berring will sound like a lifter. then agian you might have a burned valve. maybe a weak valve spring. thats about all i can say with the info but i wouldnt drive it at all untill i got it fixed. if u pull the pan to check the berings check the furthest back berring seeing as it would get the least amout of oil. to check ur sprins and valvs u have to pull the head. at autzone you can rent a spring tester good luck, andy

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rusty70f100
[B]Toaster, when you put new lifters on an old cam, you have to break them in just like you would a new cam. This means 1500-2000rpm, slowly varying, for 30 minutes. If you just put 'em in and drive it, you'll probably get one concave like was mentioned.

Rusty,

I believe this is true only in the case where both cam and lifters are changed. It is recommended to keep from flat-lobing the cam as it wears in to the lifters, not vice-versa. But you do make an excellent point that is often over-looked after cam changes.

 

The cam does break in to a specific lifter, if it's a flat tappet cam. This is why you have to keep the lifters in order during a rebuild. So if you place a new lifter on it, it does have to be broke in to the cam, otherwise you flatten the cam or concave the lifter. I think it's better to be safe. You're right though, it's overlooked far too often.

 

Guys, it is a roller cam motor.....no breakin required.