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So as it’s getting warmer I decided to see what is wrong with the ac. It’s been broke since I got the truck. Someone has converted it over to r134a or at least the ports have been swapped. So I started by hooking my manifold gauges to it and tried pulling a vacuum. It did pull a good vacuum and held it for an hour without losing any vacuum. I was happy to see that. So I then let the vacuum pump run for about 50-60 min to get any moisture out of the system. Then I decided to put some Freon in it to see if the compressor would kick on. This is where I need help. I added 2 cans and when it hadn’t kicked on I decided to check the pressure and it was zero. It appears to be losing the Freon just as fast as I’m adding it. So it must have a leak. But how can it hold a vacuum that well for that long with a leak that large? Any ideas where to start. As always thanks.
You might be asking the wrong person as I keep having put a charge in mine but it will work for a few months.
Like you it will hold a vacuum of 18HG for over and hour and then pulled down for1.5 hours before adding 134a.
I have added dye to the system and just the other day did not see any leaks that I would say is the cause.
My next step is a sniffer after I put a charge in. Oh everything has been replaced over the last 3 years.
I have to ask 1 gauge or 2 gauge manifold set? I would say in your case if 2 gauge and neither show PSI time to rig up to use shop air to put the system under PSI and give a look hear.
Maybe use soapy water to check hoses and fittings. Listen inside the cab at the vents for a leak as I would think you would hear something.
Maybe add a little dye before you put PSI to it.
Let us know what you find as it will help others (me )
Maybe that is what I need to do put PSI to the system and check again?
Good luck
Dave -----
Make sure your gauge couplers are seating properly. My truck used to give me fits because of those R134a adapters installed over the original R12 ports.
When under vacuum, the connection sucked in 100% and depressed the inner valve. But when pressurized, there was just enough play and the inner valve would close. The coupler's outer sleeve still seemed to be locked properly, but the valve inside the tube was not getting pressed open. Took a long time to figure out.
I worked around this for years by squeezing the coupler tight with a small clamp. A finally replaced the adapters and this brand must have slightly different dimensions, as it works fine now.
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