See POST 15 for resolution.

1975 F250 Highboy 360FE C6 auto; truck is 100% stock as the factory built it.
Something in my steering refresh has gone wrong and I need suggestions from the collective brain trust.
After having my garage floor epoxy coated this summer I decided to chase down the persistent leaks in my steering system. Mainly the steering ram and a couple of original lines were leaking.
I decided to replace the steering ram, steering valve and all 4 steering lines( left turn, right turn, from the pump and return line back to pump). Pump and steering gear were not touched.
Left turn, right turn and return lines are aftermarket. The PS feed line is NOS ford).
Purchased new parts from LARES(thru Rock auto) for a very decent price and with no core charge.

First replacement was the steering ram- easy job and after a quick bleed out( using type F trans fluid the steering system was working perfectly and that major leak was resolved.
Drove the truck this way for a few days with zero issues and decided to continue the refresh.

I then replaced the steering valve and all 4 lines and now the steering is super quick and jittery.
If I turn the wheel in any direction I get a serious shake at the steering wheel like a tire is imbalanced or like a death wobble.
If I stop the truck and start moving again the shake disappears.
As long as I drive straight there's no issue; shake comes into play mainly when turning the wheel in either direction however any bump also seems to trigger the shakes- like a bump steer issue.

I'm initially focused on the lines or valve as the new ram was installed for a few days with no symptoms.
Thoughts and ideas appreciated....
Tbruz

 

My first guess is that the system is not bled entirely and/or the belt to the pump is loose.

 

It will be a never ending battle to keep the leaks out and it'll still drive like crap even if you do. this was the way it was when they rolled off the assembly line.

Consider doing the integral steering conversion and never look back.

 

I don't disagree with 440's post BUT ViperPilot is also right - sounds like air in your system. Can take a bit to work that air out. Once its fully bled it'll be within operational parameters (as designed).

 

I had no issues with the way the stock system performed beyond the leaks on my newly finished floor.
Confirmed the PS pump belt is properly tight.
Lifted front wheels off of the ground to re-bleed again with motor running and the shake is instantly apparent as I turn the wheels full stop left to full stop right.
The shaking continues even if I stop turning the steering wheel- its a pretty aggressive shake too, not a shimmy
Does this sound like an improperly bled system?

I'm thinking about re-installing the old control valve just to eliminate or condemn the new steering valve.
Thanks again
Tbruz

 

IIRC when I replaced the power box on my 81 F100, part of the bleeding I thought was to turn lock to lock motor off a few times till the level did not drop.
Then again I dont know how the valve assy. works like on the old Mustangs made no sense to me?
I dont think it can hurt can it?

But I can also see putting the old valve back in to see if it happens.
Is there any one to call about the valve if there is an adjustment or something?
Good luck
Dave -----

 

See if you can find the factory bleed procedure for your year truck. Some of these trucks, I don't remember what years/models, the way the ports on the steering box were oriented, you had to jack the rear of the truck up higher than the front to bleed them or you'd always have air trapped in the box.

 

When I bought my truck PS fluid was dripping from the back of the pump, it was just a loose fitting.
All I ever used was type F trans fluid and not power steering fluid.
For a long time it dripped from the control valve even when the truck wasn't running.
I bought a $5 bottle of power steering stop leak at Walmart.
It was a smaller bottle and I only added about 1/3 of the bottle.
That was maybe 2 years ago and it hasn't leaked a drop since.

The return hose from the control valve to the pump split open a few months back.
After replacing the hose I filled it back up and just drove it and topped it off the next time I drove it.
I never did bleed the system.
Seems like the way it was recommended back in the old days was to get both front tires off the ground and with the engine running just slowly turn the wheel lock to lock and when its locked just apply a little more pressure for a few second and then do the same to the other position.

 

As others say, yes jack it up, turn lock to lock is also how I always do it including my ram steering. If it's just sitting there pulsing at idle though, that seems a little strange. Under steering load, yes a shudder can be a sign of air in the system. You have to work it sometimes 20 or more cycles to get all the bubbles out. It's the place to start anyway then start troubleshooting components.

 

This is how Redhead recommends that you bleed the system when you install one of their new boxes. Seems like a good procedure to follow when you open up the lines for any reason.

1. After installing the gearbox, fill the system with fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
3. Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
4. Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
5. Top the pump reservoir off again.
6. Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
7. Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
8. Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
9. If this procedure is followed properly, the air problem will be solved.

 

A copy and past from a fellow FTE member. A long through version.Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!!
1- Hook everything up
2- Fill with fluid
3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels)
4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start)
5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times
6- Top off fluid
7- Repeat Step 5 (turn steering wheel lock to lock 5/10 times)
8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and then turn steering lock to lock 5 -10 times
10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
11- Repeat Step 9 (crank engine over)
12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
13- Enable Ignition
14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times
15- Turn off Truck
16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
17- Repeat Step 14 (start truck)
18- Repeat Step 15 (shut off)
19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
20- Let Truck Down off of jacks or jack stands
21- Repeat Step 14 (start truck)
22- Steering should work just fine.

Repeat of Red Head version

 

Latest update: I've bled the system across two days now as per the RedHead instructions and the Ford instructions. I even went as far as tapping on the control valve to free up any trapped air bubbles or stuck valves with no change in the situation.
I can visually verify there are no air bubbles in the fluid as I peer into the stock pencil neck filler.
I've reached out to the manufacturer, LARES but they are closed today so no joy on that front until Monday at the earliest.
Probably swapping back to the original control valve tomorrow as I see no other options at this point.
In the background i've investigated integral steering systems and am gathering info IF I need to go down that path. Will need to find a manual steering drag link (from a (73-77 F250 4x4 with NON power steering) to replace the power control valve that I have.
More to come.
Tbruz

 

Upon new install steering gearbox you do not lift the rear end off the ground, you do not lift front tires of the ground. Keeping steering pump full complete turns to stop 1st to the right back to center then complete to left back to center repeat several times and checking fluid leval in steering pump. Now the reasons...
It takes the resistant back presure created with tires on the ground to replace air in the pump with fluid.

 

I like that advice and it makes a lot of sense, I never though about it that way. Thanks.

 

RESOLUTION.
I replaced the brand new LARES control valve with my old crusty valve and the issue is solved; steering is silky smooth now.
I was able to R&R the control valve with minimal fluid loss by loosening one line at a time and plugging each line opening with rolled up earplugs.
I also had a thin neck funnel with type F fluid already sitting in the fill tube to replace any lost fluid and to avoid/minimize any air introduction.
Upon completion of the re-install and with front wheels lifted; I turned steering wheel stop-to-stop two times, cranked engine for 2 seconds without starting and then turned steering wheel lock to lock 2 more times. Fluid level never changed so I started the truck and had PERFECT steering immediately.
I am extremely upset at LARES for the defective crap they sold and for the time loss I had.
I will voice my displeasure at them on Monday and at Rock Auto to hopefully recover my shipping costs.
Thanks to all who helped keep me on track with this.
Tbruz
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