I am at my wits end here with my '76 F-150 4WD.

JBG 4" premium lift with radius drops, 7 degree bushings, track bar drop, adjustable track bar, dropped pitman arm, and the '78-'79 T-style steering conversion. Freshly rebuilt Blue Top steering box, and a new rag joint. The track bar and drag link are perfectly parallel.

I have the truck altogether, and when the steering box is centered (Blue Top put index marks), the wheels are slightly to the left (5-10 degrees). I set the steering wheel and steering shaft based off the centered marks from Blue Top; the centered steering wheel is the center of the steering box. But the wheels are pointing slightly to the left.

I have the track bar adjusted to perfectly center the axle under the front of the truck. I tried to move the pitman arm one spline to the right, and its way too far.

I think my problem is that the drag link is not adjustable, so I am not able to center the wheels to the steering box and steering wheel. It wouldn't be a problem if I was at stock height, or using the stock track bar. I think I could adjust the track bar to correct this, but then the front end won't be centered under the truck.

I have had no luck finding an adjustable drag link for the '78-'79 steering? Am I missing something else here? I have the toe set correctly when the wheels are straight, and I suppose I could clock the wheel, but I am worried the truck is going to find the center of the box going down the road.

Where is the flaw in my logic? I don't want to bring it to a local alignment shop because I think they are just going to clock the wheel.

 

This work? https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/78-79-...oC1asQAvD_BwE\

Just the drag link. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/78-79-...RoC1asQAvD_BwE

I'd concentrate on getting the making sure the steering stops (on the knuckles) are set correct. Then steering box centered. You know that mistakes get made on the centering mark. So do a pitman arm off and count the steering wheel rotations (both directions) and make sure their mark is actually the true center.

Then making sure the pitman arm is on (correct placement) for full steering swing both directions and the wheels are centered and toe in/out correct. The steering shaft and steering wheel can be clocked by you later. I am pretty sure the steering shaft does not matter on clocking. And yes of course the steering wheel does.

But you should have all splines and NO solid one thick alignment spline. Unless you swapped in a 80's and up leather wrapped one.

 

With the box set on the center mark, how many turns left and right from center? Are they equal?

before you do this, take the factory knuckle steering stops and screw them in all the way.

maybe the marked center isn’t true center. If it is, and you can’t get it right from indexing the pitman arm on the box output shaft, then the wild horse adjustable pitman arm to knuckle link would be the ticket .

 

Have you actually driven it on the road yet? If so, and the STEERING WHEEL is hanging to the left or right a bit then you would adjust the TIE RODS simultaneously the same amount.
Remember this,,,, if your front wheels are set properly (toe in), the truck will go down the road STRAIGHT. BUT ,the steering wheel could very well be to the left or right. The parallel front tires/wheels will track straight, if all is proper.
If the steering wheel is hanging to the right then ADJUST BOTH TIE RODS the EXACT SAME AMOUNT TO THE RIGHT to make BOTH wheels go to the RIGHT. A test drive will find the front wheels seeking to go a little LEFT now, to go straight ,(where they were tracking before adjustment) thus making the steering wheel,NOW, go a bit to the left closer to center. Usually 1 full turn on a tie rod will bring the steering wheel a 1/8-1/4 towards the way you need to go.
If you have done the checks and adjustments others have suggested then this adjustment will center the steering wheel and tires properly.

 

You updated to 1978/79 style steering (I did too,long ago). Your steering only has one adjustment in the linkage. A fixed length drag link, and a fixed right long side tie rod ... then there is the single adjustment sleeve connection to the short left side tie rod ... to set toe. With a lift of 4", the track bar and draglink swung in an arc, and moved the axle and linkage to the left in relation to the frame.

• You can verify steering box centering, and adjust that 5 or whatever degrees by rotating the steering wheel on the shaft a spline or two.
• You might find someone with the ability to build an adjustable drag link with it's own adjustment sleeve.
• You have an adjustable track bar, and so you can move the axle over to the left (shorten the track bar) a little and then the wheels will point more straight ahead ... but I see that you want it dead center sitting still.
• Moving down the road, bumps, dips, it's going to move left vs right to some extent as the track bar and drag link swing in arcs.

Stock, my '77 front axle was offset to the right, by 3/4". The right front tire was 3/4" out further in relation to the frame / fender. I had by then driven it 25 years plus and never gave it a thought, but noticed it one day at the store parked, then I could not unsee it. I added a 3/8" spacer plate (and longer grade 8 bolts) between the track bar mount and frame ... and it centered the axle about perfect. A spacer there can only move the axle to the left of the frame. I wanted my axle dead center too, and it worked well for me even though my Red Head was already centered. I maybe re-clocked my steering wheel on the shaft a tooth. A centered steering box mark is not an exact single point, it is a mark in the center of a range. Just to go straight, are you not slightly rocking the steering wheel left / right? My pitman arm had only 4 ways to fit as I recall.

 

Drag link length is determined by centering the wheels and centering the box. If the drag link doesn't drop right in then you would need to buy or make an adjustable one out of the old one if possible.
It wont hurt anything running too short or too long of a drag link, it makes no difference to the box. You'll just loose some amount of turning in one direction.

 

Rich I did see that whole kit from Wildhorses, but I already have the tie rods. Your second link is for just the right tie rod; I need just the adjustable drag link, I think.

I should have clarified that I did verify the center of the steering box coincides with the rebuilders index marks. Also, the steering stops are all the way in, and the pitman arm is installed in the proper orientation to allow the same travel left and right.

Me thinking out loud:
If my steering box is centered, the only way for me to get the wheels to shift towards the right is by lengthening the drag link. The distance from the pitman arm to the right tie rod is currently fixed (drag link), and the right tie rod is fixed on the passenger's side. In my mind (I need someone to tell me I am wrong here) I have to get the passenger's side trued to "center" of the gearbox before I even worry about adjusting the tie rods to get the left side correct. If I can't make the right front wheel go straight when the wheel is pointed straight, my issue has to be between the steering box and the right front wheel. Am I wrong? In my mind (dangerous, I know)I don't see how lengthening the tie rod length is going to force the passenger's front wheel to right while holding the wheel straight.

To vtpkrat2's point, I have not driven it on the road yet, I am still living in the theoretical world. I will get it out on the street here shortly and see how it does, and report back.

 

My instructions on centering a steering wheel were under the assumption a vehicle has an adjustable tie rod attached to each wheel. From reading follow up replys apparently your right tie rod is fixed, non-adjustible if I'm reading correctly.

 

75HB - you have it correct. If you want equal turns lock to lock the pass wheel needs to be straight when the box is centered.

it might be off due to the new location of the front axle post lift as noted above.

this can be corrected with an adjustable drag link like you requested.

 

Gents, I appreciate the sanity check. I called JBG yesterday as well and they confirmed that an adjustable drag link is the answer. Cheapest one I can find is from Wildhorses, at $289, which seems pretty steep. I may try it as is and re-index the wheel before I shell out that much.

 

Well you can check out Toms Off road also. https://tomsoffroad.com/AdvancedSearch.do

 

In my experience, if the box is centered and the pass wheel is far enough off that you can see it with the naked eye, you will for sure notice the difference in parking lots.

I expect you will be buying the wild-horses arm to make it right and just be done with it.