Cold engine start problems
Three times now I have went to start my truck in the morning and it would not start. The water in fuel light was not on but I went ahead and dumped the bowl. After a long time of cranking it finally started. It has happened two more times since the first and I just keep cranking and it finally fires. I have been re-glowing the plugs several times to see if it helps.
I have it at the Ford dealer right now and they are saying they don't see anything wrong. I have been asking them if its fuel related and they are saying NO.
I forgot to mention that I even tried adding a little additive to the fuel...no help.
This is not something that happens when the truck is warm, only when its semi cold (25 - 30 degrees at night). The problem is that winter is not even here yet.
The dealer says the glow plugs are still within spec...whatever that means.
Anybody have any ideas??
Maybe I could suggest something to them before I pick it up tonight.
Make sure they check that Glow Plug Relay!
God Bless,
TC
According to the service advisor, they have been plugging in the scanner and starting it all day with no problems!!!
They said that they tested everything and it must be the oil not allowing it to start. (BS BS BS) It can happen but not after 3000 miles on CI-4rated oil. Next I replaced the GP relay. No better but the old one fell apart as I took it off. Long story short, I had 6 bad GP's. After I replaced them it started in 3 seconds at 19deg F this morning
Do you have a block heater?
You should be able to get the truck to fire if you can plug it in for a few hours...
Good luck!
TC
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No, I haven't been to horsepark lately as I used to work on a research farm but I plan to go to the next rodeo they have there. I just needed some time away to readjust to the magnificince of horses.
I believe that my truck was due for GPs after 125k on originals. Even with that though, my truck would fire off when plugged up. I hope you get it fixed. Nothing is worse than your pride and joy sitting dormant. The GPs are easy to replace when your fingers aren't frozen. I just bought motorcraft plugs for $8.25ea not from Ford though
I guess maybe you ought to check the camshaft position sensor?
I'd really like all powerstrokes to run like intended
They are still telling me its not the fuel but what else could it be. The dealer claims they have tested the glow plugs and relay...all within spec (whatever that means).
Nothing to do now but pick it up and the next time it does not start call the 800 Ford number and have it towed.
As if you can't tell, I am a little irritated with the dealer.
I believe what they are doing there is hooking up an Amp probe to the battery and measuring the draw when the plugs are on. Each plug is supposed to draw a certain amount of amps, you multiply by how many you have and you will get a "range". If you are outside this range,(usually lower) than you know you have plugs that aren't working.
I don't know the exact "spec's" on these but say a plug is supposed to draw 5-6 amps. If you have 8 of them, you should see a 40-48 amp draw off the battery when you turn the key on and when they shut off the drain should go away.
Hope that explains it.
Sorry to hear that they haven't pinned it down. Sure hope they didn't leave it parked overnight in their nice heated shop, and then act surprised when it "cold started" just fine!? Noticed on the last read that you have a 2003, I can understand why you would have higher expectations from it!!! It is a little more understandable when our older ones start wearing out parts...
One last thought, but I am going to tie it in with Horsecops problem...
Horsecop,
I try not to (but frequently do) overlook the obvious, so don't be insulted by this... You mention your second block heater, have you done the "feel the heater hoses" check to be sure your current heater is heating? If you replaced the first one, you know there is a connection where the wires connect to the heater... a buddy's 93 IDI has had some intermittent problems there. If you've got cold weather, a few bad plugs, and no functional heater that could be a bad combo. Hope its something simple!
Finally for both of you, this is just a thought. Some of the unexplainable no starts or cutting out issues have come back to the CPS. Too frequently the CPS is blamed for everything, but the next time you have the no start situation, look at the Tach and make sure it is registering some rpm when the starter is spinning it. If the tach doesn't register the CPS isn't signalling! No CPS signal, no run.
Keep us posted on your progress!
God Bless you all this Thanksgiving season!
TC
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