Timing procedure
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 160
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Timing procedure
Hi Guys, I have a 1986 E150 4.9l engine. I have checked the timing before but its been a while, Is there something I have to disconnect before I can check it? Vacuum line, ignition module plug?
I was driving it the other day when the weather was about 12 degrees and windy. It started fine, I drove about 20 minutes on the highway and was going to stop at the store. I slowed to turn and it stalled. Couldn't get it started again, had to have it towed. Next day started fine. The weather at that time was about 49 degrees. It happened to me before about 2 winters ago at about the same weather conditions (12 degrees) After I sat and waited about an hour it started. I though it might be a choke issue. It idles rough on startup but smoothes out alittle as it warms up.
Thanks
Ray
I was driving it the other day when the weather was about 12 degrees and windy. It started fine, I drove about 20 minutes on the highway and was going to stop at the store. I slowed to turn and it stalled. Couldn't get it started again, had to have it towed. Next day started fine. The weather at that time was about 49 degrees. It happened to me before about 2 winters ago at about the same weather conditions (12 degrees) After I sat and waited about an hour it started. I though it might be a choke issue. It idles rough on startup but smoothes out alittle as it warms up.
Thanks
Ray
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 160
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Timing procedure
It could be that's what happened. I'm going to get some yellow heet.. But it is running rough. I looked at the choke when engine cold the butterfly is slightly open. When warmed up it is open more but not all the way straight up. I'm not sure if it is supposed to be that way. On the under hood sticker it says- for timing- disconnect the spout connector. Not sure what that is.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,519
Likes: 2,654
From: Near Salt Lake City
Use some Heat once a year whether it needs it or not used to be the motto
Do not see much "Heat" use anymore as todays fuel generally has some alky in it
Stalling problem and no restart says TFI module to me
Could be about anything including the button in the cap, corroded coil terminal etc.
Even fuel related
The alky in todays fuel can stick the needle and seat (the viton or rubber tipped needle swells due to the alky)
Do not see much "Heat" use anymore as todays fuel generally has some alky in it
Stalling problem and no restart says TFI module to me
Could be about anything including the button in the cap, corroded coil terminal etc.
Even fuel related
The alky in todays fuel can stick the needle and seat (the viton or rubber tipped needle swells due to the alky)
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,519
Likes: 2,654
From: Near Salt Lake City
Those YF1A carters sure do run good after a rebuild
The power piston diaphragm / accelerator pump diaphragm is critical to be integral and not leak
It sure could have stalled due to fuel starvation and a carb problem
The power piston diaphragm / accelerator pump diaphragm is critical to be integral and not leak
It sure could have stalled due to fuel starvation and a carb problem
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,033
Likes: 137
From: Maryville
Ah, you are very fortunate, you can remove the computer and simply replace the distributor and carburetor with non computer controlled ones, relieving the head ache, get either a duraspark II or HEI distributor, the carburetor is almost the same, just has a block off in place of the IAC. Yes to time it you must unplug the PIP by the distributor to stop the computer from adjusting the timing while you are setting it, the ignition module on the distributor are known to fail, cut out when hot.
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bobbytnm
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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