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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 06:38 PM
  #16  
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T bear...I said "or" as far as the reservoir size and where the fluid goes. Large reservoir is normally for front brakes, no matter if it is front or rear positioned in the master cylinder layout. Correct?

Ah yea looks like you have some sketchyness going on with that pro valve bypass. You might want to get that figured out. NO the MS does not empty out when you push the brake pedal. And yes as the brake pads/shoes get worn (way worn, near worn out) your fluid level can be real low. The more worn out the brakes, the lower the fluid level. That is due to the pistons having to come out (and stay out) further out of the calipers or the rear wheel cylinder.

Looks like you have 4.09's for your axle gear ratio.





Check the red circles for a D60 or D61. I think the dvrs side has it. What axle only matters when you order parts like brakes, bearings and seals.




 
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 07:06 PM
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.I was not disagreeing, just how mine was / is.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 07:11 PM
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Thanks for the back up and double checking my advice, and check on the wording. Some times I think one thing and then type another.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks for the back up and double checking my advice, and check on the wording.
Check the red circles for a D60 or D61. I think the dvrs side has it. What axle only matters when you order parts like brakes, bearings and seals.
Check the red circles for a D60 or D61. I think the dvrs side has it. What axle you have will only matter if you chose a different gear ratio for the differential and when you order parts like axle shafts, brakes, bearings and seals. What axle ratio you have will be always important for a number of reasons from tire size to motor's HP as well as transmission choice.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 10:19 PM
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Thnx, I'll check the rear end for those numbers. what about the front diff, what do you think that is? I'll be doing all brakes, lines etc. it will all be replaced front and rear.

Regarding the master cylinder, the new one i have in hand has a little small reservoir than the one I took off. I'll take a closer look and try n figure out how much less fluid it would hold. otherwise I wait until monday and cross my fingers the 5th MC is correct.

I have a regulator ? in doing research it looks like the regulator is powered by the ignition when turned "ON". okay the PO has a wire from the ignition terminal running down to the fuse box, but it's not connected to anything. I am assuming this wire should be connected to a fuse that power on only when the key is on, is this correct? i had it attached to an always hot and it fried the regulator. i installed two new regulators. I know if the regulator (2 in my case since I have 2 alts) is working then the volts on the battery should go up. I just want to make certain that my thinking is correct on hooking to a key on fuse.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 08:10 AM
  #21  
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Been there...Done that. I had the same experience last year. My 75 F-150 has no relay. The fuse panel is real small w/5 fuses. All checked out OK. No juice
to the switch. I ran a new wire to the switch. Study the schematic. You may also need a new blower motor. There are short cuts for that. The forum will help
you on that if necessary. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 09:56 AM
  #22  
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Thanks, I put in a new blower motor when I out in a new heater core. the switch is working just not in medium and intermittent on low, but when i wiggle it it works but not in medium. So i have a new switch coming. I don't think i have a relay, and I don't know that I have a resistor either, no idea where that would be, but I'll look again today for a resistor. I'm thinking the problem is the switch.

Now I need to get the master cylinder resolved and the question on the regulator wiring down to the fuse box..

thnx again..
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 06:23 PM
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With the heater box installed, pop your head under the dash and look for a plug. It should be a 3 prong. The resistor is what the plug goes to. It should be held in with two fasteners of some sort. I yanked mine yesterday as one of the spades had gotten pushed in. My blower only operated on high because of this.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 06:53 PM
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I'll check it out, spent 5-hours at a few different parts house today trying to get the master cylinder lines made up for the new MC. both internal flare are 3/16 one of the new lines is a 1/4 and the guy swears it will seal. I'll try it. but this will be tomorrow since my packer are about to play. thnx for the info..
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gweedo295
you say the front uses more, is that when the pads wear and more fluid is used to fill the space?
I think I’ll replace the fan switch anyhow. Sometimes works on low n sometimes not. If I wiggle it it works. Just gotta find the relay
It's the big reservoir to the front disc because they have bigger pistons and typically take more fluid to operate than do drum brakes. Usually the bigger reservoir is the rear most as it's the primary piston in the master cylinder. The reservoirs are intended to be large enough that they do not empty.

On the switch, it works sometimes on low if wiggled you say? Then I'd replace the switch. If there was a relay, if bad, there would be no low, no high fan either.
Some had releys, but some did not. If it has one, I think it is attached to the lower lip of the dash board, just to the right of center.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 10:43 PM
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I’ll look tomorrow. I’m hoping the 1/4 brake line will seal on the smaller opening. I’m gonna have to get a new proportioning valve, the PO bypassed the front n installed a tee. But first I need to be sure it stops. This MC has been a pain. I’m think I should return it n buy the booster MC combination. See what happens tomorrow. Thnx again for the info. Hope to get the switch by weeks end🙏
 
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Old Jan 21, 2024 | 05:01 PM
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If any of the silver coil resistors is broken and you can't measure continuity through it then replace it.


 
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