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I recently bought an Actron scanner that provides some amount of live data readings in an effort to chase down a stalling issue at low throttle. I've checked codes already and am only getting codes for emission items that were removed from the PO.
PO removed all smog/emissions components, blocked off egr, removed CANP, removed TAB/TAD, etc 334 - EGR closed voltage higher than expected 553 - TAB/TAD failure 552 - TAB/TAD failure 565 - Purge Valve failure 558 - Failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit
I hooked up my scanner and read live data at idle to start and got the below readings, however I don't have the expertise to know what I'm looking at. Do any of these values stick out as suspicious? Is there a certain procedure I should follow while reading the live data to read relationships between these values and throttle? Thanks for any input.
Those codes are all smog stuff, would not cause stalling...0.06V from the O2? I would start there if I am reading that data properly.
You could pop in some TAB and TAD solenoids to keep EEC IV happy and some sort of EGR valve with sensor on it you care. I have never experienced detonation with mine blocked nor massive fuel econ loss as some propagate.
Start with basics. Age of cap/rotor. Proper TFI module. Plugs/wireset. Alternator output. Grounds clean. Fuel filter/pump pressure. Etc
Also, what sort of scanner is that? Please post up part number. Thanks
Also, what sort of scanner is that? Please post up part number. Thanks
Scanner is Actron CP9690 Elite AutoScanner - can find it on Amazon.
As for your other points - PO replaced distributer 3 years ago although does not appear to be Motorcraft. TFI is correct, plugs changed within the last year and very few miles have been put on them due to the stalling issue. Battery and alternator test showed proper output and tested (I think I got them all) all grounds multimeter. Fuel pressure is 30 at idle both tanks and does not drop under load test.
MAP 10.8 "hg is very low, this engine should produce 15-18 " hg at idle. Verify idle vacuum with a mechanical gauge, if it doesn't match the scanner reading then the MAP sensor is suspect... or did the PO remove the vacuum line between the sensor and intake?
I had problems for years with random no crank with a non factory unit. What about that O2 sensor?
Ignition switch is OE as far as I know. The O2 sensor was replaced by a shop about a year ago. Is there a procedure I can follow to test that? .06V appears to be what the data is showing
MAP 10.8 "hg is very low, this engine should produce 15-18 " hg at idle. Verify idle vacuum with a mechanical gauge, if it doesn't match the scanner reading then the MAP sensor is suspect... or did the PO remove the vacuum line between the sensor and intake?
Vacuum line between the sensor and intake is still intact. I will verify idle vacuum with a gauge and compare to the scanner reading
MAP 10.8 "hg is very low, this engine should produce 15-18 " hg at idle. Verify idle vacuum with a mechanical gauge, if it doesn't match the scanner reading then the MAP sensor is suspect... or did the PO remove the vacuum line between the sensor and intake?
I saw that also but was unsure if Mm/hg is actually what the EECIV outputs live on this scanner or what the MAP outputs to the EEC.
0.06V is that static? Either way narrow band read 0-1V fluctuating rapidly...so yours is basically doing nothing. I would start checking its ground and switched 12V first. Then trace its signal wire back to the EEC to verify it is not open.
I have no EVTM handy, perhaps someone does for you to tell you which pin is signal. It could just be a crap O2 also. I use Bosch or NGK/NTK only
I saw that also but was unsure if Mm/hg is actually what the EECIV outputs live on this scanner or what the MAP outputs to the EEC.
0.06V is that static? Either way narrow band read 0-1V fluctuating rapidly...so yours is basically doing nothing. I would start checking its ground and switched 12V first. Then trace its signal wire back to the EEC to verify it is not open.
I have no EVTM handy, perhaps someone does for you to tell you which pin is signal. It could just be a crap O2 also. I use Bosch or NGK/NTK only
0.06 is not static. The below video shows it fluctuating a bit while giving throttle. I don't know what to make of it.
Regarding the MAP hg - I did notice that leading up to a stall the value read 10.2 - however after the vehicle stalled the MAP value read 15.8 with the engine cut off. Again not sure what to make of that
however after the vehicle stalled the MAP value read 15.8 with the engine cut off.
Whelp, something's not adding up there-
IF it's reading in inches of mercury like it says, then it should read about 30 with the engine off (absolute)
OR it should read 0ish (gauge). The difference is in what it's using as reference.
However, if it's reading in BAR, then it's about right, although low when the engine is running. 14.9 bar is sea- level atmospheric, (gauge)
and lower than that would indicate some vacuum, although not a heck of a lot.
Easy to test with key on engine off- just put a good source of vacuum on it, and see if it behaves as you'd expect...
IMO, spring for a good vac gauge. I just picked up an OTC one for about $40. Actron makes good, large ones too.
I see 17" from L6s, so I would expect with more cylinders you would have higher. Like 19-22" area, but never tested one of these with a stock camshaft.
Whatever the reading, it should be steady.
Sounds like a few simple issues. Ever check that PCV hose itself? They do ****out with age and the valves can cake up and not work properly.
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