Dipstick Adapter Cleatus method
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Dipstick Adapter Cleatus method
I had to solve the notorious dipstick adapter leak...I searched the the forum for the various methods and settled on this one by @cleatus12r .
I did make a small change...I noticed Cody used a Buna #328...I bought Viton #328. Hopefully this fixes it.
Originally Posted by Cleatus12r
I'm going to give away a little secret - called a #328 o-ring. I buy these things in bulk from MSC and they are 3/16" in cross-sectional width and fit in the groove perfectly. These will take up the gap in between the flange and the inside of the pan although sometimes they take a little bit of effort to get the threads started if the flange isn't bent just quite enough. A bit of "Right Stuff" on the threads and the back side of the nut will keep the nut from backing off and help seal the little indexing groove from any potential seepage. There are dozens of 7.3s running around here with the larger cross-section o-ring and no repeat leaks.
Last edited by Y2KW57; Sep 23, 2023 at 03:58 PM. Reason: To add attribution & remove software imposed color tag on quote that renders it invisible in some browser/mode combinations
Fleet Mechanic
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Let's let @cleatus12r offer guidance on write up and tech folder inclusion.
Cody Test...
Cody Tune...
Cody Ring...
Quite the trilogy already.
Cody Test...
Cody Tune...
Cody Ring...
Quite the trilogy already.
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
I see the sub $30 "Golden Nuggets" on EBay.....I guess after seeing PriusLover adventure...I'm unwilling to drop the OEM adapter in the pan, and I'm in and done for $10.
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So the machined adapter requires that you drop the back half of the stock flange in to the bottom of the oil pan. Ideally it lands not far from the pickup so it's out of the way/won't cause an issue. Seems to work for most, didn't happen with me. Somehow it got lodged up in such a way that the crank or a rod was striking it, introducing metal in to the engine oil... and to be clear, install instructions were followed exactly.
Other than that it worked rather well. It fixed the leak, though a film of oil always existed around it. The issue is the backing plate on the machined flange has to be small enough to fit in the hole in the oil pan. As such when you tighten it down it only presses horizontally across the opening instead of all around it, which means it's ability to uniformly press the uneven sheet metal oil pan in to the orings is limited, so you might get some very light creep of oil film.
If you don't want to remove the oil pan use the international kit/a bunch of RTV. If you have other things on the engine that need freshening up remove the engine, remove the oil pan, and weld a flange on.
Other than that it worked rather well. It fixed the leak, though a film of oil always existed around it. The issue is the backing plate on the machined flange has to be small enough to fit in the hole in the oil pan. As such when you tighten it down it only presses horizontally across the opening instead of all around it, which means it's ability to uniformly press the uneven sheet metal oil pan in to the orings is limited, so you might get some very light creep of oil film.
If you don't want to remove the oil pan use the international kit/a bunch of RTV. If you have other things on the engine that need freshening up remove the engine, remove the oil pan, and weld a flange on.
It seems like nearly two years of engine rebuilding has followed that 3 little dot ellipse after "metal in to the engine oil..."
That definitely qualifies as an adventure.
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Butt-Head
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From: Reed Point, MT
The o-rings I have used are still holding up after 8 years in my blue/white 1995, almost 8 years in my 73 swap, more than 7 years in a friend's 2000, almost 7 years in my 2000, 5 in the Crown Vic, and 4 in the 2001. I also have numerous customers (most of which were from before I opened up my visible-to-the-IRS/DOR shop). The other 3 I own haven't needed a replacement yet as the stock setup is still holding.
I have only used a "nugget knockoff" (my machinist friend made it a few years back) one time because I ran into an issue where the nut had been tightened too much and took the threads off of the crappy potmetal adapter. No o-ring was going to fix it. I have a few eBay cheapies on the shelf for an emergency case (when I don't have the time to have another machined) but yes, I do trust the o-ring replacement method better than any aftermarket fixes.
I have only used a "nugget knockoff" (my machinist friend made it a few years back) one time because I ran into an issue where the nut had been tightened too much and took the threads off of the crappy potmetal adapter. No o-ring was going to fix it. I have a few eBay cheapies on the shelf for an emergency case (when I don't have the time to have another machined) but yes, I do trust the o-ring replacement method better than any aftermarket fixes.
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