Alignment help!!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
The only other thing I'm aware of the can cause return to center issues would be to little caster. I've read a few threads here and there claiming Ford's caster spec on these trucks didn't give enough positive caster and that is one of the major contributors to the steering issues we deal with. He's an article that explains it better than I ever could.
https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/caster/
https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/caster/
Thank you for sharing. I’m leaning towards the ball joints themselves, or I did something wrong during install. I thought the same thing at first, but the truck drove great before. It was actually a pleasure on the interstate… I re-greased everything while I had it up, and worked the wheel back and forth for awhile. In the process I picked up a nasty leak in my power steering line before I could test drive… don’t have very high hopes for that to have actually worked, but never know I guess.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
Are the knuckles supposed to move pretty freely, or is there supposed to be a little resistance to them? When it’s all torn down and the axle shafts are out, no steering linkage hooked up… mine were pretty stiff. I could move them lock to lock, but it took a little bit of effort to cycle them.
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,191
Likes: 1,696
Are the knuckles supposed to move pretty freely, or is there supposed to be a little resistance to them? When it’s all torn down and the axle shafts are out, no steering linkage hooked up… mine were pretty stiff. I could move them lock to lock, but it took a little bit of effort to cycle them.
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
You sure it's a line and not the res puking fluid? I recently found out that cycling the steering of a power steering system without the pump running can draw air into the system and cause the res to dump fluid.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Are the knuckles supposed to move pretty freely, or is there supposed to be a little resistance to them? When it’s all torn down and the axle shafts are out, no steering linkage hooked up… mine were pretty stiff. I could move them lock to lock, but it took a little bit of effort to cycle them.
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
I know there is preload on them, hints the different torque specs on the upper vs the lower. But just how stiff should they be?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
Maybe I should have investigated that further. I just assumed it was the line. This is my third one in about 6 months. They keep leaking where the hose runs through the nut, that goes to the res, the one that the intercooler pipe practically lays on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Yeah I'm familiar. That's what prompted me to flip the intercooler tube end for end. That routes it up over the outside corner of the alternator instead. Don't think it fits though with the factory air box, but with the Donaldson big blue filter not a problem.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
I'm wondering if one or more of the joints was slightly crushed, for lack of a better word, during install. Why I asked about snags. Wonder if popping them with a drift opposite the direction they were pressed in would have a chance at loosening them up a touch. Similar to a u joints when you press a cup a hair too far and the joint gets tight, but if you give it a smack from the other direction it will loosen back up.
This basically what I’m gonna try next. Gonna just tear it back down, loosen the nuts, pop the knuckle back loose, and re torque them. See if anything changes. I see what you are saying though. I’m not sure how I could have crushed them though. I used a legit ball joint press and pressed them in with the collars until they seated fully. Didn’t use an impact, I did them by hand, and everything went in very smoothly. There was no monkey business, as far as pressing them in. But stranger things have happened…
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
Ah! I’m gonna have to try that! I currently run the Napa version of that filter.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
I did Moog balljoints on one...and let me tell you, they were tight and acted just as you described. It took about 5k miles and then it was fine.
I just replaced everything on the front of my Trailblazer....sticky returning to center, but some miles and its getting better.
I just replaced everything on the front of my Trailblazer....sticky returning to center, but some miles and its getting better.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 204
Likes: 25
From: IN
I did Moog balljoints on one...and let me tell you, they were tight and acted just as you described. It took about 5k miles and then it was fine.
I just replaced everything on the front of my Trailblazer....sticky returning to center, but some miles and its getting better.
I just replaced everything on the front of my Trailblazer....sticky returning to center, but some miles and its getting better.
I just got it all put back together. I loosened the top joint completely… The knuckle was really free at this point. So I torqued it all back down to 63lbs. Working the knuckle and beating on the ears of the axle and knuckle about every half turn along the way. It did free them up a bit… I did try it torqued all the way, but no dice. It was still stiff as hell. On the test drive, I was still chasing it around a little, but nothing like I was.
there is the human element involved here as well, I believe… I have to learn how to drive it with good parts up there haha!
I think I’ll drive it tomorrow. I’ve got a 180-200 mile round trip. I think I’ll re torque the top joints to the recommended 69lbs, with the next oil change. Unless there is some objection to having them backed off 6lbs…
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