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A few days ago I noticed my truck was making a strange ticking noise. It wasn't constant but when I would tap the gas I would hear a popping tapping sound kind of like creaking suspension. Put the truck in park taped the gas and nothing back in drive tap the gas almost like a bad mount. The next day they sound got more frequent. I could hear it everytime I took off from a red light or traveled slowly. When I got home I proceeded to give the truck a thorough inspection. Check all of my fluids oil trans and diff all looked good. Next check my u joint and carrier bearing all in decent shape. I had a rebuild kit for my fuel bowl and figured why not. Popped off my valve covers everything looked nice and tight and in working order. Removed the dust cover on my trans inspected flywheel. Mostly good except for the plastic bag the nice fellows at the transmission shop left in there for me to find. Pulled my air intake tube to check the turbo noticed a little more left to right play that I would like but no in and out. Fins have looked better but I think that's how they looked when I bought the truck.
Then as I'm putting everything back together I finally see it.
Looks like my turbo has developed an exhaust leak. I guess my questions are what are my options. I'm leaning towards overkill and thinking kc stage 2. I plan on upgrading my injectors at some point later this year. I dont haul much at all with the truck. Most of my miles are highway with some around town stop and go. But rather then firing the buckzooka at it because I have an excuse to is there a semi cheap option to clean this up. One that I won't regret upgrading the turbo while I have it out.
Not an injector expert I've done minimal homework on the different options I was thinking 205/30 mainly because thats what kc turbos recomends with their "street package" it's hard to make a decision these days as I see soo much info with soo many different options.
Not an injector expert I've done minimal homework on the different options I was thinking 205/30 mainly because thats what kc turbos recomends with their "street package" it's hard to make a decision these days as I see soo much info with soo many different options.
towing or playing? From my research on KC they seem to suggest smaller injectors and turbo if you are towing a lot. just my impressions from the many turbo threads here on the forum where they have chimed in.
Well good news now that I'm not completely exhausted. No pun intended got to take a better look at it today on my lunch break no crack in the housing one of my bolts is missing. Seems to be a common problem. Anyone know where I can source 1 of these bolts if not ill be getting ahold of international in the morning I hear there set is cheaper then fords
The new ones have scientifically buggered threads so they are less likely to back out.
But if the missing bolt is in a bad spot and you have to pull the turbo anyway, I'd bite the bullet and go with an upgraded turbo. Your compressor wheel is looking ragged and the gap to the housing there looks worn. And bellowed up pipes. It's something of a PITA so doing the job once makes sense to me.
Well my saga continues. Got a new bolt in my turbo. Fingers crossed driving down the road sounds good. Then after 5 minutes or so stop at a red-light go to take off and it's back. It's very weird doesn't do it all the time just when it wants. It goes away above 1500 or so rpm. Tonight it was making the noise while in park just a random pinging sound. Maybe a clank sounds like thin metal like a heat shield or something getting tapped on. When it's consistent it seems to increase with rims briefly then it goes away. Got out my prybar since it was randomly popping put it to my ear checked both valve covers timing cover tensioner pulley oil pan trans pan no luck. But I did come across another problem that I was un aware of.
Looks like I lost a solenoid screw aswell with is up with this thing dropping bolts lately. Gonna warranty out the starter today. Wonder if thay could be the source of my sound. I didnt see and damange to the starter or flywheel when i remover the cover but we will see.
here's the sound it's making sorry for the poor sound quality. When the sound first started it was alot more sparadic. Today when it was doing it while in park it was very random no rhythm.
Yea that's where I'm at with it. It doesn't want to do it consistently. It will do it hot or cold. Doesn't like to do it in park but will occasionally. It will do it taking off from one light and not the next. If I put it in drive hit the brakes and rev it up I haven't seen any exhaust. I can still build 24 psi on a hot tune if I lay into it. That doesn't increase or decrease the frequency of the noise. Truck runs well eqts seem a bit higher sometimes maybe I'm just watching them closer. I'm exploring all possibilities. Everything on forscan looks good. I was reading where some have had a similar sound with cps issues. I'm running the international cps. Probably 3 months old. I did notice there was oil on the cps pigtail. Cleaned it up and keeping an eye on that. Not really sure where it came from. Ran a buzz test and all injectors buzzed nicely 7 seemed a slightly quiter then the others. Then it tells me my idm is bad I forget which code atm. Gonna check the wiring and look for any issues there. Put some diesel clean in the tank. Once I run that through I'm gonna add some 2 stroke see if that helps. Monitoring it closely trying to avoid major damage if something serious is going on.
P1298
so after cleaning the oil off of my cps wires my truck started to run real crappy. The popping sound was all over the place. Pulled over turned off the trick tugged of the wires ran just fine all the way home
Seems my flywheel isn't straight guessing it's messed up. But it's been contacting the starter and inspection plate. Always thought my harmonic balancer had a little wobble to it. Guess I'll be pulling the trans today.