I drove out to the store, when I came out of the store, van refused to run, once you put it in gear you had to give it gas quick or it would quit, it shuddered and knocked, top speed was 35 MPH. Its an 89 E150 with the 4.9 inline 6, C6 automatic transmission, I have never heard the blower fan cut on for the injectors, I've had an issue with restarts since I got it a year ago. Last year the check engine light was on, replaced MAP, O2 sensor, plugs, plug wires and complete distributor, tab was broke off that secured the cap, checked all the vacuum lines. This insanity always begins after restarting the engine after stopping somewhere especially when it wasn't sitting long enough for complete cool down, cold start is fine, I checked engine codes and there are none, checked the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum gauge, wanted to see if the diaphragm was busted, made no difference on how it ran, but was cold when I done the test, did not want to burn my hand meddling with it. I am very irritated as my dad drives it and tells me its fine, yeah, jump in and start it cold, drive 5 miles and done, so it doesn't act up till shut off at engine temp, but a lot has been spent on this van, gotta draw the line somewhere.

 

1989 E150 with 4.9
Injector overheat blower has likely been inoperative since 1990
I have never seen a working one on any 4.9 ever
That will not be the cause of your no start
You said you checked the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum gauge?
What was the pressure difference? That is what tells whether it is good or not
I see no fuel pressure test or number
That pressure check against the spec is what is next (needs 35-40 lbs. to run right)(might start and run real poor at 20)
Does it have dual tanks and 3 fuel pumps?

 

Mine was a bad fuel pump when it started running rough and couldn't hardly get over 35mph, but I have dual tank and a HP pump. I would assume you have a single tank with a LV pump and then a HP pump closer to engine on the Driver side?
Could you have garbage in the tank? When was the last time the Fuel filter was changed?

Manicmechanic007 is correct though, get a fuel pressure reading before you go further. Would hate to see you do unnecessary work

 

I just bought a fuel pressure gauge, cost more than the high volume fuel pump, I was basically testing the regulator for a busted diaphragm until I could get a pressure gauge and get a pressure reading. Its a shorty, no dual tank option for it, I wish it had the larger rear tank, instead of the small mid tank, its been degrading over a years time, started with just quitting after restart when at operating temp, but it would start back, idle was off until you rev the engine, then it was fine, I figured it would finally quit and show the true cause, battling dad, as he kept telling me its fine, and to leave it alone, as if there is nothing wrong because it doesn't do it to him, he doesn't drive it like I do, no hot start, just short trip.
I hope to wrestle the engine cover off tomorrow, my pump is due to come in tomorrow too, I hope the shop that painted my frame did not paint the pump and lines, I will pressure test before replacing it, to be certain, I believe its supposed to read 50PSI, I know the later models got different injectors and the fan was totally removed. If this ain't it, I'll be looking into the ignition next, I hope I didn't get a bad distributor, between the rust repairs and this, I wish I never saw this van.

 

Well, I have 50 PSI fuel pressure running, and running quite fine, as its cold, I think I call it quits on this one, was a nice van, but I am through, I just don't have the money to keep throwing at it!

 

I had the filter changed last year when we did the tune up, had to send it to a shop to have the distributor replaced, I can only hope the distributor is bad, should have a warranty on it, I run 100% gas in it, or at least have been from a reputable station near me.

 

Just pitching out some thoughts here.

You're saying it does it after the warm up period....
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Have you checked your IAT sensor?
We now know after you tested the fuel pumps that this isn't mechanical, so it's electrical most likely, just because generally a mechanical problem arises, it will always do the same thing whether cold or hot, Yours comes on after coming up to operating temp. So ruling the fuel pumps out, I'd say vacuum, IAT, IAC, or electrical connection. Just my way of thinking though.
You also said you had a bunch of rust repair done, have you checked your body to frame ground straps?

 

I've been questioning the ground strap when I first found the rust, moved one, but not the block one yet, couldn't get the bolt loose that I could reach, I put a battery to body cable on. I put my vacuum pump on the vacuum lines and pulled pressure to test if it holds, no leaks in the lines, the IAC controls idle, wont prevent WOT, dad drove it down through the mountains of Va and TN before we had the distributor replaced, I didn't get my equipment in it till after, so when I started driving it was after the 'new' distributor, and was always an issue starting it when warm, just went ignored as dad told me nothing was wrong, very irritating to say the least. I've been watching videos and reading comments from mechanics on the number of bad distributors for the Fords due to that stupid pickup, or ignition control module, Ford was even sued due to the arrangement because failure when the vehicles were new. I've thought about getting a replacement ignition control module, but if the pickup in the distributor is the issue, it will just fry the module, so its best to replace the entire distributor and hope its not another bad one, great products from China, avoid reman at all costs. If I was able to reach it, I'd test the TPS but still betting its the distributor, need a dwell meter, of ability to unplug the pip when it starts missing, gonna be something a shop has to look at as I exhausted everything I can reach, I just worry about the cost now, I had hoped to replace my other van with this one as it has low miles.

 

You are not touching the gas when trying to start it hot right?
If the TP shows above .8 v the processor will think you are on the gas
If you have a drizzling injector, it will be hard to start after heat soak
If you floor the gas to shut the injectors off (flood clear) does it start?
Engine running test on that 89 with a super star II, KOER should come up with something

 

Hmm.... I had put a rebuilt distributor in my old Dodge van years ago (can't remember why). Anyway, I started having intermittent no-start problems. Finally figured out that the shaft must have been bent because the air gap would be right at one point of the reluctor but it was off on the other side (turned 180). Not sure if the no-start was caused by it being too close or too far but the problem went away when I put the old dizzy back in. I got a refund at my LAPS on the rebuilt and of course they just put it back on the shelf.

 

I just thought about it, the guy who installed my distributor timed by ear, had it advanced to where the engine would drag at times, it hasn't done that in a while, and no one has moved the distributor, so timing is off.

 

My distributor is long gone, wish I had just left it and continued to Jerry rig the cap with a nut where it was busted, this has been a headache.

 

The shop had it a week, said he drove it, it was fine, dad went to get it, was like it was only running on 2 cylinders and wouldn't move, no transmission fluid on the dipstick, its never leaked before, I'm puzzled, he added fluid, drove it home, I went to his house, its running fine, but low fluid, I gave him some bottles he added one today only for it to run out, so now its off to the transmission shop. I do believe it was running poorly when he went to get it because it was on a hill, fuel tank was not full, believe the in tank pump just may be failing, the fuel gauge seems to be dying with it, once on level ground at his house and 1/2 tank its running smooth when cold, just can't drive it, no 3rd gear now, the C6 must be toasted, will know when the transmission shop gets to it.
So the list of misery goes on, I can say there has never been any fluid under it here, I just had a poor running condition at the start, trying to get it nailed down it winds up with more problems.

 

Wow sounds like you have some bad luck or that van was rode hard and put away wet. Sorry you're having a hard time.

 

Transmission is smoked, no drive, 3rd is gone, so off to the transmission shop, oh how I look forward to getting it back after that so I can send it to another shop to fix the miss, dad tried to pour transmission fluid in, seemed to run straight on the ground, dipstick tube must be rusted, as if I didn't have enough on my plate.
Has anyone found replacement dipstick tubes, or had to make one, if mine is ruined?
I am certain the transmission has nothing to do with the poor running condition, its a C6, no lockup converter or computer control, it never so much as slipped going in gear when I drove it before the shop got it.