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I used a “local” distributor through my contact. I can never remember what it was called but it was bought out and changed names while I was still getting all my parts. Maybe ended up being Transtar?
I purchased them through my local parts store but worked with the distributor directly. He helped me decide what parts were actually needed since the PO had a shop rebuild mine not too long before I got it. My failure was due to the TC, I assume the previous failure was the Mechanical Diode.
So I didn’t exactly use a “kit”. I believe he sold me a full clutch kit and some other various things. I didn’t mess with bushings or anything because the truck was still well below 100k. I do have records of it all but they’re on the PC.
There are some special tools required which my dad built while I worked on the trans. They are detailed in the thread I shared. Seems like I printed them out for his reference while he worked on making them. Pretty simple DIY tools IIRC.
You’ve built other transmissions so the build itself shouldn’t be an issue for you.
Time… Not sure I’d recommend a DIY if it’s your daily driver and this is your first go with a 4R100. Maybe you’re way faster than me though. Well of course you are, I’m super slow. Wait let’s call me “methodical”. Yeah that sounds better.
Im scrapping the idea of rebuilding it myself. I’m old enough now to recognize inexperience mixed with no warranty, and limited time and funds = Soup sandwich.
Searching locally for transmission shops. Getting the info together and making a list of shops today, making calls Monday. I’ve got 4-5 options at this point, it’s a good start anyway.
I’ve got 4-5 options at this point, it’s a good start anyway.
That is a much better position than you were a couple days ago.
Like you, a lot of us are realists, but also try to keep the optimistic side of things in the forefront. We are hopeful you will find what you are looking for and at a fair price for you and the shop.
North East Auto and Truck Service
2140 NE 36th Ave Suite 300-1, Ocala, FL 34470 https://northeastautoocala.com/
(352) 867-7400
I had them work on my vehicles when I lived in Ocala.
I called them this morning. They don’t do transmission rebuilds, but they did refer me to a couple other shops. I do appreciate you passing me the info regardless. Thank you.
[QUOTE=Sous;20790974]That is a much better position than you were a couple days ago.
I wanted to run a question by y’all… I’m being told by a shop, that if I replace my stock trans cooler with the 6.0 trans cooler (I planned on doing this mod at some point anyway), to bypass the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Yay or nay on that? I planned on flushing it to clean the old contaminated fluid, and any debris out of it. As long as there were no major hard part damage in the trans. I understand the 6.0 cooler has a MUCH greater cooling surface, and the added fluid volume helps, but I live in FL.
What are your thoughts on that? One shop said with the bigger cooler, the radiator cooler will actually warm it up a bit… but don’t the fluid go through the radiator then to the air cooler, then back to the trans? Seems like one of those things that could be argued either way… just wondering if someone had a definite on that.
[QUOTE=7.3powerstrokeBob;20792544]I called them this morning. They don’t do transmission rebuilds, but they did refer me to a couple other shops. I do appreciate you passing me the info regardless. Thank you.
Originally Posted by Sous
That is a much better position than you were a couple days ago.
I wanted to run a question by y’all… I’m being told by a shop, that if I replace my stock trans cooler with the 6.0 trans cooler (I planned on doing this mod at some point anyway), to bypass the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Yay or nay on that? I planned on flushing it to clean the old contaminated fluid, and any debris out of it. As long as there were no major hard part damage in the trans. I understand the 6.0 cooler has a MUCH greater cooling surface, and the added fluid volume helps, but I live in FL.
What are your thoughts on that? One shop said with the bigger cooler, the radiator cooler will actually warm it up a bit… but don’t the fluid go through the radiator then to the air cooler, then back to the trans? Seems like one of those things that could be argued either way… just wondering if someone had a definite on that.
When BTS (Brians Truck Stop) Brian's Truck Shop (brianstruckshop.com) installed my rebuilt transmission, Brian junked my old 7.3 trans cooler and installed the 6.0 trans cooler. He told me AFTER he had already done it ( FREE of charge for the 6.0 cooler and no labor charge.....by the way.... ). Your 7.3 cooler is not only 'contaminated' with bad fluid, it may also have some metal parts floating around in there. It is also TO SMALL.... Get rid of the 7.3 and go with the 6.0. It is now 'Standard' to go to the 6.0 trans cooler if you have a 7.3 engine/trans.
I was at Brain's shop when he rebuilt mine.... we went for a test drive and I off the cuff said that I wish that the 'shift points' were a little different.... Brain said to pull back into the shop as he knew what I then wanted my truck to do.... He drained out the pan and changed out the valve body that controls the shift timing/RPMs... went for another test drive.... OMG... perfect. Nothing beats having Brian overhaul your transmission while you watch and then if you want, fine tuning it to you...
You do NOT want to bypass the radiator cooler. The water to oil cooler is very efficient and does help with cooling. It also does not help heat the fluid, I’ll add a screenshot from Mark on the subject.
Make sure to clean it out very well. Junk the 7.3 cooler and use a 6.0. Great mod and drastically drops ATF temp.
Also, do NOT do a cooler bypass delete as some may recommend. See below.
The only "cooler" that will warm the oil is similar in design to the engine oil cooler on the left side of the cylinder block. As the coolant warms up, it also passes it's heat to the cold oil and helps to bring it up to operating temperature. If the oil gets really hot, then its job is to cool it back down to the same temperature as the coolant. This is all a very good thing, getting the oil nice and hot boils off any contaminants and condensation that may have accumulated in the oil. If you rely upon the atf cooler in the radiator to heat the atf, it will never happen on a winter day because the coolant at that end of the radiator is cold all day long.
I wanted to run a question by y’all… I’m being told by a shop, that if I replace my stock trans cooler with the 6.0 trans cooler (I planned on doing this mod at some point anyway), to bypass the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Yay or nay on that?
That's a big NO. Do NOT bypass the cooler in the radiator if you want to cool your trans. If you're fine with overheating it, then bypass the radiator cooler.
Originally Posted by Brother Les
we went for a test drive and I off the cuff said that I wish that the 'shift points' were a little different.... Brain said to pull back into the shop as he knew what I then wanted my truck to do.... He drained out the pan and changed out the valve body that controls the shift timing/RPMs...
That's REALLY interesting because the shift timing/RPMs is 100% controlled by the PCM. The valve body just makes the shifts when the PCM commands it. Unless you have a C6. then what you described is how it works But not in anything more modern than a C6, it just isn't so.
That's a big NO. Do NOT bypass the cooler in the radiator if you want to cool your trans. If you're fine with overheating it, then bypass the radiator cooler.
That's REALLY interesting because the shift timing/RPMs is 100% controlled by the PCM. The valve body just makes the shifts when the PCM commands it. Unless you have a C6. then what you described is how it works But not in anything more modern than a C6, it just isn't so.
Hello Mark, what does the Valve Body in the picture do? https://www.brianstruckshop.com/ That is what Brian changed out under the pan of the transmission. And it did/does shift very differently than when he first overhauled it. So I would 'assume' that Brian has reconfigured the Valve Body to cause shifting differently. Some 'Valve Bodies to Factory specs and some changed to a different performance?
Thank-you for being here, Mark.
Ended up going with a local-ish shop to me. 2 hours away in Sarasota, FL. Name of the place is Ralph’s Transmissions. Little tiny 4 bay mom and pop shop. Family run for 2 generations. Very good reviews, and a couple other 7.3 owners from the area spoke VERY highly of them, so we shall see. Was quoted $2k - $2,500 bench price. Add another $200 for a billet converter (which was an obvious choice). Wants to double check my work once I have it installed. Said he could get to me by the end of the week. I figure a 2 hour ride back to his shop will be a nice little test drive.
[QUOTE=Mark Kovalsky;20792970]That's a big NO. Do NOT bypass the cooler in the radiator if you want to cool your trans. If you're fine with overheating it, then bypass the radiator cooler.
Copy that. Thank you Mr. Mark. Truly do appreciate it.
Ended up going with a local-ish shop to me. 2 hours away in Sarasota, FL. Name of the place is Ralph’s Transmissions. Little tiny 4 bay mom and pop shop. Family run for 2 generations. Very good reviews, and a couple other 7.3 owners from the area spoke VERY highly of them, so we shall see. Was quoted $2k - $2,500 bench price. Add another $200 for a billet converter (which was an obvious choice). Wants to double check my work once I have it installed. Said he could get to me by the end of the week. I figure a 2 hour ride back to his shop will be a nice little test drive.
get the 6.0 oil cooler and have them install it at the same time. over and done with.
My BTS cost 5k... ten years ago. was told, Life Time warranty. Very happy with it, drop it in gear and your foot better be on the brakes, as it takes off, with no foot on the pedal.
get the 6.0 oil cooler and have them install it at the same time. over and done with.
My BTS cost 5k... ten years ago. was told, Life Time warranty. Very happy with it, drop it in gear and your foot better be on the brakes, as it takes off, with no foot on the pedal.
I wish I could have gone the BTS or Wyse route. BTS is over 1200 miles from me. I just can’t justify $5k+ or a 2+ month down time at the moment. This wasn’t exactly planned haha! Matter of fact 160/30 bitterroot injectors and custom jellybuilt tunes were on the next big ticket item list for tax returns this year, until the trans decided to exit the chat. I’m doing all the labor except the rebuild. I dropped the tranny, so I’ll put it back in. As well as the 6.0 cooler and the line and radiator cooler flush. Saved a lot of cash that way. Plus I enjoy working on my own stuff. No shady ***** and everything gets cleaned up. Keeps us in tune ya know?
I questioned him over the phone about the installation and warranty. If they wanted to install it for warranty purposes. He said no, we just ask that you bring it by the shop and let us check the install, fluid level, and scan it.
Originally Posted by Brother Les;[url=tel:20793055
20793055[/url]]Hello Mark, what does the Valve Body in the picture do? https://www.brianstruckshop.com/ That is what Brian changed out under the pan of the transmission. And it did/does shift very differently than when he first overhauled it. So I would 'assume' that Brian has reconfigured the Valve Body to cause shifting differently. Some 'Valve Bodies to Factory specs and some changed to a different performance?
Thank-you for being here, Mark.
Valve body can change shift feel or firmness but the timing (on 4R100) is controlled by the PCM. I assume what he tuned for you was the hole diameters which will affect how fast clutches engage once the shift is commanded.
Originally Posted by 7.3powerstrokeBob;[url=tel:20793112
20793112[/url]]Should I go stock 6.0 trans cooler, or will something like a doorman or box store house brand be sufficient?
I did a Dorman because it was way cheaper and my local part store could get it.
Someone (uglypitbull?) has a thread going right now where the one he received in the mail was damaged in shipping. If the price is similar there’s something to say for getting it local. Then you can inspect it on arrival and the part store will take care of it if it is damaged. Besides, the store delivery guy may handle them more gently.
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