I shut my 93's rear door today and the door latch broke. The rear door handle just flaps in your hand no connection to the latch mech. Any idea how to get the door open so that i can work on the latch? Any idea where the problem might be?

Thanks Jeff
93 Aero

 

Jeff,

Sounds like the liftgate outside handle assembly has separated from the liftgate latch release rod. Have you tried to open the hatch with the key? The lock cylinder uses a different rod to unlatch the hatch and you might get it open with the key.

The only other suggestion I would have is to try to remove the interior trim from the top just enough to get access to the rod that attaches to the outside handle. Looking at the manual (Chilton's) it looks like you will have to push down on the rod to release the latch.

Let me know how it comes out. LOL

Ron

 

Thanks Ron I'll try that. One knock I always had with Areostars was there was no inside release. I had a Volvo 240 wagon and it had an inside release seems to be a very handy item at times.

Jeff

 

Jeff,

Me too on the inside release. I wonder if there's an aftermarket kit to install one for such emergencies. I'll look around and see.

Good luck.

Ron

 

Ron in my haynes manual it mentioned an inside release "if equiped" I wonder if it was an option or for cargo vans only.

BTW the key idea didn't work. I will need to work on the door from the inside.

Jeff

 

Jeff,

Sorry key idea didn't work..Looked like it would in the chilton's manual..Went out and just checked mine and the key only operates the lock, doesn't release the latch. What a wierd setup.

After looking again at the chilton's manual description for removing the rear hatch mechanism, it does mention removing the "hatch door trim panel and handle, if so equipped." Maybe an inside handle was an option. There does appear to be an extra connecting rod in the diagram that doesn't attach to anything. That's if I'm reading this thing right. I'll see what I can find.

Good luck. Let me know how things go.

Ron

 

Ron I fixed it by pulling the inside panel. The rod came out of the handle. I lubed up everything and it seems to work fine. Thanks for your help.

Jeff

 

Glad to hear it. These things can be a hassle at times.

BTW did you figure out why the rod came out of the handle? Looking at the manual there are no keepers and the rod just hooks onto the handle. Do you think it was just binding enough to cause it to separate?

Anyway, glad your problem is fixed.

Ron

 

I hate to say this but the rear door didn't want to latch when I shut it so I slamed it hard. The latch mechanism was sticking from lack of grease. I lubed the mechanism an now she latches with little effort. I need to do a better job of regular care.

Thanks again for your help.

Jeff

 

I'm the same way. My mother-in-law's car, sister-in-laws car, everyone else's car that I know and work on is in better shape than my own. Guess I don't save enough time to properly care for my own vehicles or I'm just tired of looking at them after taking care of problems in others.

Well at least you're done with this problem. Been nice chatting with you. Have a good day.

Ron

 

I have had the handle release rod separate a couple of times, too. In my case, the latch was stick and the rod didn't "spring back" the handle - the handle stayed in the release position. So I pushed the handle back to its normal position & then the rod falls off! Great.

Once reassembled and lubed and everything, it was great.

Six months later the handle didn't spring back again. So like an idiot, I pushed the handle back again. This time I heard the rod fall free. Grrrrr.

I consider it a design flaw, but that's how Ford built it.

Cheers,
Eric

 

I need help ASAP Please !

I have this problem with the back door latch. I lost the screws to the handle, so I took it in to VIP Auto and they put the screws in but then they couldn't close the door, so they sprayed it and then they moved the bulb that the latch hooks to.

But heres my problem:

The door ajar light comes on and when I turn my car off it is draining my car battery down, so I pulled one of the cables to the battery to stop it from draining. I tried to take it back 3 times and still they will not put the bulb back in the right place and they keep telling me I need to replace the latch and bulb. I had no problem with the door closing until they moved the bulb. (I think they want to make a buck off of me).

But anyways, how do I set the bulb back into place?

Do I need a special tool to move it or can I just hit the bulb with a hammer and put it back?

I'm at the end of my rope here. I don't want to have to keep taking the cable off my battery just because they don't want to put the bulb back into the right place.

Please email me ASAP !

Thanks for all your help.

 

You'll need to take the latch out again. You will likely have to take off the inner panel to disconnect the rod so the latch will come completely out of the hole. When it's out, remove the screw that holds the switch to the latch. The problem is that old grease & dirt have caused the switch plunger to stick.

Use some carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner or brake cleaner to flush all the old goop out of the latch and off the switch plunger. Make sure the plunger moves freely before you put the switch back in. Lube the latch well (I use aerosol white lithium because it penetrates really well) & reinstall.

Good luck.

Cheers,
Eric

 

Great and thank you for all you help. I'll give this a try.